That was my first concern also seeing how many of the ******* things have leaked around the Plasticine like threads of the cube on me. But on second thoughts, I dont think there surface area of the tap is large enough to reasonably cause a problem. Thats my guess anyway. I dunno. There's so much I dont know about the principles of pressure vessel design, and letters that somehow equal equal numbers when divided by the square of x/y - f and multiplied by..bla..blaaa..bla..blaa..and so on..I wouldn't trust those taps. Did you try the 30 psi with liquid or just air. I would assume 20L(weight) of carbing beer and 26 psi of pressure would be different to just air pressure?
That's some top quality science right there.A lot of information on Wiley online library (brewing institute) Pressure Fermenting, discussing lager fermentation, I am happy with what I have read on this thread and excited to give my ghetto low pressure fermentation a go first, applies only to ale yeasts. This method can save me money, I always go for secondary ferment and transferring the beer to secondary I blanket the beer being transferred, with this method I can capture the co2 and transfer without using my gas bottle, anything left over I can capture in a camping deflatable water container and use with my hand pump. The lagers, according to info gleaned from above link 26 psi pressure for lagers at around 16 degrees C for finishing quicker, ale yeast doesn't like the pressure.
I tested a cube today on my compressor took it up to 30 psi so a cube is alright for the pressure range, it was a heavy duty dangerous goods cube, $9.00 for a 25 litre so reasonable saving there.
This is how I have set mine up for the ales, on hindsight I will add another JG tap and JG non return that way if needed when transferring beer using the 2 bottom taps I can bring the co2 back into the original fermentation vessel.
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Bulk Buy??That's some top quality science right there.
I've been wondering when someone will start selling plastic corny's, this might be the start of some ghetto versions.
I had seen those a while ago but forgotten about it. Not sure what couplers they use though, whether they're corny style or commercial keg spears.
These would be great with ball locks instead of d and s stems. Could put weldless ball locks in ... but by the time you do that, again... you might as well by a used corny for $75I spend a lot of time on Alibaba these caught my attention, this price and image is not the manufacturer, so pricey compared to the manufacturers price but the manufacturer has a couple of thousand minimum order.
Cube taps have never given me any trouble in ten years of pressure fermenting in cubes. I was initially worried that the taps would be the weakest point and changed them regularly.I wouldn't trust those taps. Did you try the 30 psi with liquid or just air. I would assume 20L(weight) of carbing beer and 26 psi of pressure would be different to just air pressure?
The one he has linked is the AR2000 which is a pressure relief valve. One of the guy in the original pressure fermenting thread was using exactl;y this unit.I don't see how. It's just a regulator. The high pressure side is unregulated, the low pressure side sits at the desired pressure. Could be used as a secondary regulator if you want to run CO2 into kegs at different pressures.
I haven't used that yeast in particular,but generally I find everything seems to benefit from 5 to 10 psi during the first few days.Hey guys, I'm about to ferment a weizen with Wlp351. Has anyone used this yeast under pressure? Or should I swap the spunding valve for a blow off? I like a nice estery weizen...