Hi guys,
I read a lot of topics regarding the problems of electric elements with the boil kettle.
I know that "each to their own" but;
I don't understand why you don't just use LPG and a suitable burner for the boil.
I've listened to the arguments of safety, I've listened to the arguments of cost, but IMHO gas burners come out well above the element (electric ) when it comes to safety and performance.
I will conceed that electric element HLT's do work and so does a herms coil in a container with an electric element but if you want a real boil for 60 to 90 minutes then go gas, or go 15 or 20 amp systems which aren't an available option in the HB situation.
A real boil will result in a clearer beer.
A real boil will result in correct hop utilization.
A real boil will result in a shorter brew day.
In real terms, a three ring burner with a suitable regulator will offer no more danger than your average BBQ on a Sunday arvo and it will provide a boil that will satisfy the three sentences above, so just rethink the desired outcome before you spen a shi* load of money on a system that may not be suitable.
Cheers and may your boil be productive!!
if you think about it the wort is probably getting hotter than water boiling point becasue it is much denser that water with all those sugars - ever made toffee? Also becasue you get a coating on the elemets really quickly it insulates and the element gets hotter than it normally would - it doesn't stuff up the element at these temps but its a fail safe device.
An electric element is great for temperature regulating devices such as a HLT or HERMS, where the on-off action is very easy to control. In fact, I personally think in these applications it is superioir.
I think for the ease and simplicity, the old three ring burner etc, wins hands down!
vl.
Oh no !!
here comes the debate on what you need to be real brewer again h34r:
I have an electric boiler with two kettle elements and it works a treat with 1 or 2 elements on although the evap is a bit high with both on for the full duration - I was worried I would have all sorts of worries with temp control but works fine as is nice and simple
real brewers use electricity exclusively
lou
Thanks Lou.
I have installed a switch to disable the thermostat. When the switch is "off", the urn runs as normal:
when the switch is "on" the power is permanently supplied to the element overiding the thermostat.
The element is 3000 watts and the switch I put in is 3 amps. I was not sure how many amps I needed
but the test with water worked fine.
Here are some pics.
Thanks
arthur
Enter your email address to join: