Cloudy Pilsner - Need Help

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:icon_offtopic: Actually i like BIAB, i don't have space for more vessels, i'm already hard pressed storing an urn and 3 fermenters plus bottles, i live in a split level and i'm forever hauling gear and bottles up and downstairs, my kitchen and bar is on the top level.... the compensation is an uninterrupted view on the dandenongs....
 
:icon_offtopic: Actually i like BIAB,

I figured you did since you do it.

My point was whether you use BIAB, esky, insulated keg, stainless steel or pot in the oven, the results make grain based beer and if you do it good then it will turn out good. I'm in favour of lateral thinkers and BIAB is the result of lateral thinking.

Antichrist be damned.
 
They're strangers as in I haven't met them. After the swap we will all be chums.

Yes I was brewing this for the vic xmas case swap.

Now it's totally clear. Thanks. Never heard of doing that, but it sounds a lot like a Christmas gift exchange, only with beer.
 
I know you're taking the piss but anyone who thinks that needs a sharp knock on the head. You take grains and brew beer and use lateral thinking to make it happen according to your own time schedule. I'm pretty new to grain brewing but I never understood slamming other people's methods unless there's a genuine basis for why it won't work.

Obviously I'm referring to the naysayers rather than yourself.

There are several methods of all grain brewing and there may be more discovered or invented in the future. As long as they make good beer, with repeatable results, who really cares how it was done.

I've never done BIAB, but I believe it can make good beer. I also want to try it sometime this next year. And I want to experiment more with batch sparging, too. I learned all grain using the fly sparging technique, which might be more efficient than batch sparging, but the latter seems to be less of a fuss and quicker. BIAB looks like it can be more forgiving of a poor crush than the other two methods I've mentioned.

And the cube thing seems like a good idea. I have to find a useful, food-grade cube to try it out but I want to try it. I'm a little confused about how the hopping rate needs to change to compensate for the hops being in near-boiling water for a longer period, and how it affects aroma and flavor hops, but if it doesn't work well for some beer recipes, it might be useful in others. It would save a step in the process by adding a shorter step and make for convenience by breaking up the brew day a bit.

I've learned a lot from being open to new ideas, like the above, growing my own hops, improvising or making brewing equipment, etc.

I also don't look down on extract-only brewing, but almost every beer I've made used at least specialty grains with extract and it's turned out well. All-grain gives you some more options, though, and it's cheaper (but takes a lot longer).

Don
 
Protein Haze (wort recirculation) ?
Low ppm Ca+ ?
Excessive agitation of post cooled worts that still contain cold break ?

All things I've pondered and played with over the years

Still get the odd hazy one myself so no real help......
 
Possibly water chemistry and something you did differently because you were making a Pilsener? I did two fairly similar brews within a couple of days. One of them a fake lager with US-05 and the other an English Summer Ale done on 1469. Apart from the yeasts and the fact that one was BB Galaxy and the other Golden Promise - the difference was that the Summer ale in the front taken just now, had the absolute crapper thrashed out of it with Calcium Carbonate and Calcium Chloride. After three weeks in the bottle here's the result. The fake lager is woeful, still looks more like Mountain Dew.


cloudybeer__Large_.jpg


The reason for the goonie bottle is that I often bottle the extras after kegging into these and if I need to take one to BABBs or whatever I decant the upper half of the bottle carefully into a 750ml, gas it a bit and have clear beer to take with me. Not so clear in this case
Both got gelatined and polyclared.

Might be worth a look.
 
the difference was that the Summer ale in the front taken just now, had the absolute crapper thrashed out of it with Calcium Carbonate and Calcium Chloride. After three weeks in the bottle here's the result.

High levels of calcium will assist in the flocculation of yeast and protein coagulation(break). The results speak for themselves BribieG! (Also using a good flocculating yeast will asssist).
 
Some isinglass should assist you aswell.

I fined with gelatin but they've been in the bottles for a couple of weeks so this is no longer an option.

Cheers for all the suggestions- looks like I have some reading to do about starch and protein haze.

Lucky I have a couple of back-up brews.
 
My pale ale used to be hazy even after going through a DE filter, using some brewbrite (irish moss / PVPP) in the boil fixed this up and now it's crystal clear. The lager (almost identical grain bill) was always crystal clear even before using brewbrite.

Only thing I could put it down to was that the extra late hops in the pale combined with the differnet yeast produced a reaction with proteins to create a permanent haze (not chill haze).

Even my brown ale fermented with T-58 now has much better yeast floc and filters bright after using brewbrite. Previously the yeast would not drop fully after 2 weeks at -1C and it would have to be filtered twice to get it almost clear.

Brewbrite in the boil is good stuff (about 8 g/hL).

Cheers, Andrew.
 
Hey Andrew (OP)

Sorry if this has been said/asked already but i just skimmed over this thread.

Do you wirlpool?

How do you chill your wort comming out of the kettle? (Cube, CFC, Imersion)

Rob.
 
Just started doing a half arsed version of whirpooling recently. I usually use Irish moss ten minutes towards the end of the boil. Chill is done in a laundry sink full of ice bricks and frozen juice bottles. Drops to pitching temp in around 40 odd minutes.

I do not as yet have a proper kettle so everything bar the last tiny bit gets poured through a strainer into the fermenter when temp is low enough. Possibly all the stuff the moss has made an effort to clarify is simply getting in? I do try and be careful and most of what seems to go in looks clear but..............................
 

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