Chill Haze

[pcmfisher]

I find that most of my brews develop chill haze.

I do k&k at the moment using some extra infused crystal malt and hops.

After conditioning in the bottle it looks nice and clear until they go in the fridge.

Don't think it affects the taste at all.

Is there any way to avoid or remedy this?

Finings? Ageing longer?

 

[Online Brewing Supplies]

I find that most of my brews develop chill haze.

I do k&k at the moment using some extra infused crystal malt and hops.

After conditioning in the bottle it looks nice and clear until they go in the fridge.

Don't think it affects the taste at all.

Is there any way to avoid or remedy this?

Finings? Ageing longer?

Bit to late to add Finings (Isinglass) after its bottled but some useful info here about its use and preparation.Have a read it will explain how it works.You need to remove the haze before you bottle if you have the gear to chill first?
GB

 

[mika]

Your method of steeping the grains, or more specifically the temp you're steeping your grains at could be part of the issue. Above 78degs and you can start to extract haze proteins, wouldn't have thought it was an issue for such a small amount of grain though. Maybe roughly detail your procedure for us.

 

[Adamt]

Also make sure you boil the liquor extracted from the grains for at least 15 minutes.

 

[Thirsty Boy]

I'm going to go the cheats way -

Isinglass helps with general clarity and will help a little with chill haze if you do it right... but Polyclar is the specialist product for chill haze.

Stir some Polyclar VT into your fermentor a couple of days before you plan to bottle. The chill haze will not happen anymore.

Easy

TB

 

[Online Brewing Supplies]

I'm going to go the cheats way -

Isinglass helps with general clarity and will help a little with chill haze if you do it right... but Polyclar is the specialist product for chill haze.

Stir some Polyclar VT into your fermentor a couple of days before you plan to bottle. The chill haze will not happen anymore.

Easy

TB

TB Isinglass does a brilliant job at removing chill haze , I have had beers that looked like foggy glasses and the beers come out like crystal , as you said its how you use it , which is the key. Also remember PVPP (aka Polyclar) only removes tannins and phenol haze formers and not yeast. Then you need to filter to remove the Polyclar from your product.I use both products but get more bang for my buck from Isinglass.
GB

 

[Ross]

TB Isinglass does a brilliant job at removing chill haze , I have had beers that looked like foggy glasses and the beers come out like crystal , as you said its how you use it , which is the key. Also remember PVPP (aka Polyclar) only removes tannins and phenol haze formers and not yeast. Then you need to filter to remove the Polyclar from your product.I use both products but get more bang for my buck from Isinglass.
GB

Polyclar VT does not need filtering anymore than Isinglass. Personally like TB I'd use Polyclar for clearing chill haze & either filter or use Isinglass for the yeast. If bottling though, I don't see any real need for extra yeast clearing unless you are in a hurry.

Cheers Ross

 

[SpillsMostOfIt]

Polyclar VT does not need filtering anymore than Isinglass. Personally like TB I'd use Polyclar for clearing chill haze & either filter or use Isinglass for the yeast. If bottling though, I don't see any real need for extra yeast clearing unless you are in a hurry.

Cheers Ross

I would expect both clearing agents to obey the laws of physics and drop to the bottom of the fermenter in time.

I like to clear the yeast from my bottled beers so I can give them to people without having to issue special instructions on how to treat them. I also get a real buzz from the polished look it gives, regardless of how I'm packaging it.

I bought some Polyclar a while ago but haven't got around to using it yet. It's far easier to serve the beer warm...

 

[pcmfisher]

Your method of steeping the grains, or more specifically the temp you're steeping your grains at could be part of the issue. Above 78degs and you can start to extract haze proteins, wouldn't have thought it was an issue for such a small amount of grain though. Maybe roughly detail your procedure for us.

Also make sure you boil the liquor extracted from the grains for at least 15 minutes.

I steep 150-200g crystal malt in 1 litre of water at 65degc for 30 mins then rinse with another litre at the same temp.
I disolve in my ldme or dex and boil for 30 mins adding hops along the way.
Turn off heat, mix in goob and strain into fermenter then fill with chilled filtered water.

I reckon I still got chill haze with straight k&k.

Is chill haze caused by the yeast or something else??

 

[soupbones]

When I do K&K beers I always rack to a secondary and give it another week fermenting, then if possible chuck it in the fridge and give it a cold condition for a week or so. Never had chill haze doing this. Also get a nice crisp and clear beer thats as clear as the commercial megaswills.

But it all depends on how patient you are. Those extra couple of weeks can be a killer!!

 

[DKS]

I find that most of my brews develop chill haze.

Hi pcmfisher.
You may want to try a cold break. Sus it out, many report it significantly reduces chill haze. You could try "How to Brew - John Palmer " on web.
Daz

 

[mika]

Chill haze is generally related to proteins and such within the mix. If you think it's from the yeast it might not be chilli haze and just a yeast that doesn't flocc out well. Search for 'gelatin'. If memory serves, and it probably doesn't, gelatin will drop yeast, but I don't think it'll clear up a chill haze. Worth a chot as an experiment.

 

[boingk]

+1 for racking to secondary for a few days, if not a week. As soupbones said, I've never had clarity problems after doing this. Also, it'll leave almost no sediment in your bottles...meaning you can bottle into glassies and drink straight out of them! Ah...the luxury of it...

Also worth a mention is that I generally try and stay away from boiling or heating my kit/ingredients in any significant way [except the hops which are simmered with 500ml water, or just left in a mug of boiling water if I'm lazy]. I leave the kit for maybe 10 minutes in a bucket of hot water while I'm cleaning my fermenter and boiling the hops etc etc. Then I'll dump several litres of hot tap water into the fermenter and throw in the kit and ingredients. Give it a swirl, top up to whatever with cold water, throw in the hops/grain liquor/yeast and badda-bing badda-boom I'm done. Probably overkill to describe all that but if it helps even one person...

Cheers - boingk