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BrewPiLess. BrewPi on a single Wifi board.

Discussion in 'Electronics, Hardware & Software' started by Mattrox, 26/8/16.

 

  1. Moad

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    Posted 30/5/17
    1 person likes this.
  2. malt junkie

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    Posted 30/5/17
    I have two boards made up (thoraks version with the surface mount stuff) sitting on the work bench.
    1496138238845.jpg
    Both laptops out of action. And yep need some of those files from that hard drive too. But can't flash till I get one up and running.

    I hate windowsupdate!!!
     
  3. Moad

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    Posted 23/8/17
    Anyone having wifi issues after updating to v2.3?

    I did an OTA update and now the connection is buckled, if i reset into config mode it seems fine so maybe I need to erase all of the settings again
     
  4. Paiakan

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    Posted 22/5/18
    Finally finished my BrewPiLess acrylic case. It uses the same idea of the BrewPi case available on Thingiverse, using only screws/nuts to put all the pieces together.

    [​IMG]
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    Posted all the files here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2924101
    The project is made for US and Brazilian power sockets but it can be customized for an AU/NZ version since all the files are available.

    Parts used in this project:
    - 1 x BrewManiacEx/BrewPiLess Brewshield (http://vito.tw/?p=576)
    - 1 x Wemos D1 Mini ESP8266 board (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BK435ZW)
    - 1 x LCD module I2C for Arduino (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GPUMP9C)
    - 1 x 5V/2A power supply (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074DR4ZD8)
    - 2 x DS18B20 - 6 feet - temperature sensor (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EU70ZL8)
    - 2 x Mini XLR 3 pins male socket (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014EJY0JE)
    - 2 x Mini XLR 3 pins female socket (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J33CF48)
    - 1 x 2 Channel DC 5V Relay Module with Optocoupler (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E0NTPP4/)
    - 1 x 10A 250V AC Schurter, model 6765 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DWIKI3Q)
    - 1 x Wall Power Outlet Decora-style 15A Wall Outlet (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CE95O0/)

    Assorted screws (M3x16mm), wires, connectors and power cord.
     
  5. eviltabouleh

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    Posted 23/5/18
    This is so sexy but it would get trashed in my shed
    I will just have to do it with a project box or 3d printed like my ST1000
    Nice work!
     
  6. Paiakan

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    Posted 23/5/18
    3D file for the gentleman with black hat at the corner.

    [​IMG]

    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2787182
     
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  7. eviltabouleh

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    Posted 23/5/18
    Give that man a New!
    No wait that isn't a gift....:p
     
  8. Mattrox

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    Posted 4/10/18
    I am sooooo slack. I got this all working, but did not box it up. Then I got interested in iSpindel. Then the iSpindel integration into brewpiless happened. I now have an iSpindel ready to go, but Brewpiless is not ready yet. So I need to get going again.

    I now have access to a 3D printer at work and all personal 3D printing is "professional development". I will modify the 3D print files to fit the round 240V sockets sold at Jaycar. Hope to update soon and have this ready for my next brew.
     
  9. Mattrox

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    Posted 11/10/18
    With the help of the above 3D print file, I now have this.

    I am waiting on e-bay for some components and I'm still deciding how to mount the wemos D1 mini.
     
  10. Mattrox

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    Posted 11/10/18
    The pics didn't post. So here goes nothing.

    1539238136272.jpeg 1539238118939.jpeg
     
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  11. Richard Cann

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    Posted 21/11/18
    Unfortunately no more shields available at Vito's website. Does anyone have the files necessary to create the PCB?
     
  12. lespaul

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    Posted 30/11/18
    Looking to make a brewpi before I complete an iSpindel. Since this is my first electronics project I had a few questions and just wanted to clarify some stuff:
    As far as I can tell the difference between brewpi and brewpiless is the lack of Arduino. The ESP8266 having wifi capability means its not necessary. So is there any benefit of going down the Brewpi route?
    With regards to the shield, do you need a shield for both variants? If I get the brewpiless I was going to get this board through pcbs.io (LCD Support with DuPont connectors, and surface-mount level converter components) https://pcbs.io/share/8DDk0
    - Do I want the R45 variant and use the ethernet cable?
    - I've never soldered before, how hard is it going to be to do the surface mount style? or should I go with the through-hole style and get the extra level-shifter?
    If I'm ordering a project box would a 160x110x90mm be about the right size (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5338413729&icep_item=253960769415 I see above the brewpiless acrylic case that looks mint, did anyone get a price on printing one?
    For the mains panel socket, I struggled to find anything similar to the one above. Could only find the single ones (https://www.jaycar.com.au/mains-panel-socket/p/PS4094). Is it easier to just get some extension cords and just cut the ends off them and drill a hole through the box?
    Any help would be really appreciated!!! tbh the whole project is pretty overwhelming but something that I've wanted to do for a while.
    Cheers
     
  13. garage_life

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    Posted 1/12/18
    Practice soldering and watch some YouTube tutorials, EEVblog channel has some good ones.
    I wouldn't recommend surface mount without a decent iron and some practice, get some scrap electronic device and have a go desoldering cleaning and desoldering on that.
    I think
    Bunnings should have sockets but they have more stand out, if you want to run a cable Bunnings also have cable grommets.
     
  14. bee2gee

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    Posted 1/12/18
    There have been a few people reach out on the projects Facebook page, Cherry Phillip usually gets back to people in a day or two, he's able to supply the new v2.0 boards
     
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  15. bee2gee

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    Posted 1/12/18
    I use the same board however only the RJ11 existed when I built mine. Just be careful and enough the pins are in the right position to go into the board.
    I too use that mains panel socket, do be aware though that you need to have a specific cut out. I did my first with a dremel which took a while, second one I knocked up a 3D print panel based on the case I liked. I've attached the cut out details for you.
    Enclosure: https://www.jaycar.com.au/pro-quality-instrument-case-200-x-160-x-70mm/p/HB5912
    240v IEC socket with switch: https://au.element14.com/webapp/wcs...estType=Base&partNumber=1836764&storeId=10184

    One thing I do need to say though is, if you're not confident with soldering, grab the non SMD version. I personally went non-SMD because it's much easier and I have the space in the enclosure anyway plus the 3v 5v level converters are cheap and easy to find. If you've done 240v wiring before great, just brush up on your soldering skills, if not, I would speak with a sparky about proper isolation, safety and what colours to use.
     

    Attached Files:

  16. lespaul

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    Posted 2/12/18
    Thanks for the replies.
    Just a few things to clarify, stick with the brewpiless over brewpi?
    If I grab the non SMD it says I have to get the level shifter. Not going to be a problem? Or should I get one of the Vito boards you referenced?
    Looks like I'll get ordering. Fingers crossed lads!
     
  17. bee2gee

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    Posted 5/12/18
    Horses for courses there really. The BrewPiLess is on cheaper hardware and has less processing power so it could be argued that it isn't as good or maybe not have as many possible features as the BrewPi. The BrewPiLess is only for fermentation where as you use the BrewPi for other brewing processes.
    The level shifter is fine, the below is what you should be looking for. Of course, complete your own due dillegence and ensure the item and price is what you're after:
    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/5PC...odule-5V-to-3-3V-For-Arduino/32216849765.html
     

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