Beer In Regulator

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Hey Guys,

The micromatic reg is easy to pull apart and if you do it pretty quickly after you flood it, the only thing you have to replace is a fibrer washer (which only cost about $1.00 each directly from the local sydney importer). You don't need the whole seal replacement kit unless you leave it too long.

When I pull my reg apart I use the following diagram from micromatic to ensure I put everything back in the correct position.

http://www.micromatic.com/draft-keg-beer/r...rs-pid-642.html

Cheers
OSF


Sorry Guys - click the "Replacement Parts" tab on the micromatic link.

Cheers
OSF
 
Hey Guys,

The micromatic reg is easy to pull apart and if you do it pretty quickly after you flood it, the only thing you have to replace is a fibrer washer (which only cost about $1.00 each directly from the local sydney importer). You don't need the whole seal replacement kit unless you leave it too long.

When I pull my reg apart I use the following diagram from micromatic to ensure I put everything back in the correct position.

http://www.micromatic.com/draft-keg-beer/r...rs-pid-642.html

Cheers
OSF


Thanks for that I'll give it a go!

Regards

Graham
 
Just a question

What is "Soft Gassing"
 
Out of interest, is there anything particularly bad about *not* servicing your reg if you do get a bit of liquid in it? I managed to backflow a bit of beer into mine having a brainfart a couple of months back, and havent noticed anything particularly wrong with it since. Adjustment knob's stiffer than it should be, but that's about it.

If it *IS* absolutely necessary to service it, why cant you just pull it apart, clean out all the seals, and reassemble without replacing components?

Just a question

What is "Soft Gassing"

He was referring to just keeping your keg attached to a reg, with the reg set at the serving pressure (say 65kPa for example), and just leaving it at that pressure for an extended period of time until the correct level of carbonation has been reached. Takes a couple of weeks.

As opposed to "hard" forced carbonation, such as using the ross method, where you have the keg under 300kPa or more, and agitate the beer to get the co2 into solution faster.

The advantage of the former if you've got the patience is that there's basically no way beer can end up back in your reg, and you can quite accurately get the carbonation level right by controlling the temperature and pressure. But it takes time, and you need a spare reg outlet
 
Hi fellow regulator owners
I used to work for CIG,now BOC, there one of my tasks was servicing regulators.
Now would anyone be interested in me servicing regulators here?I figure $20.00 for a service,if parts were required that would be extra of course,it unusual to have to replace anything but the diagram.
The only problem is that I work away this time of the year so you would have the touch base with me as to when I could do it.
Just an idea to keep me a bit busier.

Batz
 
Hi all

Just dismanteled my micromatic. Pretty easy really (thanks to OSF for the diagram). I found the spring to be coated in rust and soaked it in vinegar for a couple of hours and it came up pretty good. I reassembled it using the old gasket coated in Haynes Lubri-film and so far no leaks.

My advice to anyone getting any beer (no matter how little) in a micromatic is to pull it apart and clean it out ASAP. I've read elsewhere that beer is acidic and the state of the insides after getting beer in it tends to support this.

Regards

Graham E
 
I reccomend using a 1 way valve off your regulator saves you in the long run
 
I reccomend using a 1 way valve off your regulator saves you in the long run


I use one Franko but I am thinking of removing it,it shows the pressure in your regulator not your kegs. Eg if you have a small leak in your kegs your reg. can still show full pressure even if your kegs have none.Also if you need to burp your kegs,perhaps over carbonated the reg. will not adjust to this.
Guess what I am saying is I perfer to be a little careful and have a true reading.

Batz
 
I use one Franko but I am thinking of removing it,it shows the pressure in your regulator not your kegs. Eg if you have a small leak in your kegs your reg. can still show full pressure even if your kegs have none.Also if you need to burp your kegs,perhaps over carbonated the reg. will not adjust to this.
Guess what I am saying is I perfer to be a little careful and have a true reading.

Batz

Not quite correct Batz...

If your keg develops a leak or drops in pressure it shows it fine. Think about it...the valve allows flow of gas to the kegs, so if the pressure drops at the keg end the regulator will read it correctly. However, if your beer is at a higher pressure than your regulator is set at, it will not show it, as it blocks the back flow, hence saving your regulator from a back flow of beer.

Cheers Ross
 
Apart from the spring tension the holds the needle or ball onto the seat,otherwise a check value would not work at all.
All will require a certain pressure to lift this.But yes your correct.

I guess the real reason is with my check value in I can no longer wind out the regulator to reduce keg pressure.If I want to do this I need to open my chest freezer and release pressure from the keg.If your keg is filled as it should be,releasing pressure at the regulator should not cause beer to enter your regulator at all.I suppose it depends on how easy it is to access your kegs.

Batz
 
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