A Guide To All-grain Brewing In A Bag

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Second one is the sort of thing.

Have a look here Link. The second photo is a good shot of the sort of thing you can make out of wok warming rack bits. I dont beleive that most of them are stainless though.. Mines not, but it was cheap, so I will just chuck it if it starts to corrode.

Get a cheapie, that way if you decide like some othe BAIB ers that you dont think you need teh rack, you can pitch it at minimal cost. If you like it, then you can upgrade to stainless later on,

Actually, have a look at the whole post. It wont hurt. Provide you with another exaple of how people are doing the BIAB thing

Sorry to post a link to another board, but I couln't be arsed digging out the photo to post again.
 
Ok Kingy , gloves off,, stop stuffing around and just do it..

It was I that burnt the first bag, and Pat sugested the cake rack. I still don't use one and never have. Just make sure that the water is at around 67 for a 65 mash trun the flame off add the bag , add the grain and stir ,wait and stir , wait and stir, ect ect , if your temp drops after 30 mins or so lift the bag a little so its not sitting on the bottom , relight the burner (takes 2 mins with nasa) flame off and stir ect ect. at the end of your mash raise the bag again heat to 74 (app 4 to 5 mins W/nasa) lower bag stir ,jiggle sir raise and drain the bag give it a good squezz out and trun the burner on till boilling, back it off to a rolling boil , add your hop sock and hops and all is under way to the best beer you have ever brewed..

Good luck..



Now on the subject of the boil .. Pat and I have had a few disscusions of late and I know he has been in contact with spills and thirsty about this .
I think that I alnog with good knows how many others may well of been boilng the crap out of our brews in the past. I did 2 brews yesterday with a gentle rolling boil instead of my past violent rolling bubbleing cooking of the past and the wort from theas brews was a more malty taste than the last brew with the same recipe . I think it has allowed the flavors to improve . I dont have % points of how much evaperation I had but it was 1/3 less that past brews ..
I'm looking forward to tasteing these 2 ..

Mash Out.. another discussion topic with Pat & Thirsty.

I have now done this with the last 4 brews.
and have found that I get about .8 to 1.2 brix improvement on the wort after the mash out step.
So I think that it is definately a step in the whole process that should be included in the guide.. If its not in the new one allready..
And of corse I will continue to do it..

Cheers guys , go go go Kingy ..

Bunyip
 
Just to add my 2 cents worth.
I put my bag in with the cold water, so it is in the whole time the flame is on.
Prior to the grain going in, the bag floats, so no chance of scorching. I don't use a cake stand or any other device on the bottom.

I have been doing a 20 minute mash out for the last 3 brews. The bag stays in un-changed while the flame is on (4 ring burner) although I do agitate the grain so it is not sitting in a big lump on the bottom. I have found doing a mash out gives me a gain of ~5% in extract efficiency.
Also, I have been adding the specialty grains at mash out, not for the entire mash. This has been giving me beer with more complex flavours and aromas.
 
I took my copy of the BIAB Booklet 360meters up Mt Tibrogargan in the Glasshouse Mountains this morning.
P6030017.jpg
 
InCider: What a top pic! Mate it's going to be heaps of fun having you involved in this thread. I think we are in for a few treats guys ;)

Kingy: I don't use the cake stand either though I wouldn't mind one (see *below). I think a small one would be no good so don't bother with that. One thing I do (without the cakes tand) is agitate the mash any time I appply heat not so much to avoid burning the bag but to avoid the bottom part of the mash being struck by too higher mash temps. This could be me just being paranoid though. ANyway Kingy, Bunyip wants you on that register straight away so forget the stand - lol!

Mash Outs: After Hashie's link a few pages ago, I've been doing mash outs at 77 degrees too. A typical set of Brix readings can be found in this post (The figures pertaining to the actual mash out are about 5 posts after that one.) This link also contains a question about iodine tests and whether the mash is complete or not that Trough Lolly has answered there. Anyway, looks like a mash out should be included in the BIAB booklet. *This is the bit for which I'd like a cake stand as ten minutes or whatever of agitating until you reach mash out temp can be a little boring!

Boils: As Ned said above, I've also been mucking around with the boils. I've been having one small flavour coming through in Batz's Altbier that people have found hard to name. It's like a really slight medicinal taste but it's not an infection. One person said it could be oxidisation and Thirsty mentioned this as a possible problem of a way too vigorous boil. The rest of the beer is wonderful so that flavour is really bugging me. I'm about to keg an alt done on a really slow boil so I'll see if that has fixed it. Hope so. Mind you, I'm still having trouble acheiving a low evaporation rate. Even tried leaving the lid mainly after the first 5 minutes as suggested by an excellent brewer and found my rate didn't change at all - lol! TidalPete has the same pot and gets heaps less evaporation. This has mne truly buggered! Definitely going to do some side by side experiments on the boils though.

Spot ya,
Pat

Edit: Sorry Kingy. Still haven't made the new bags yet so no photos for you today.
 
i dropped my pot and material at mums today and shes sewing it up during the week so i can do my first brew this weekend coming :D

getting it done like the sleeping bag and a drawstring without the lugs tho.

as for the grain i have to order is it just as simple as picking any AG recipe and order the grain as stated or did i read somewhere that i have to add more grain when doing biab?
 
I've got to race after this post but Ned will be proud of you! For a normal grain bill say 4.5-5.5kgs, I usually order 90% of the grain amount as my initial brews and side by side brews with batch-sparged brews showed BIAB to have a slightly higher efficiency. (This may not hold true for high gravity beers though for reasons I can't quite understand yet.)

For your first one, just copy the recipe exactly. The worst that will happen is you might just get a slightly higher strength beer than the recipe. This is not a big deal and may even assist in your celebrations.

;)
Pat
 
Just responding to something Pat said in the BIAB register thread. Thought my answer was more appropriately posted here.

Blackbock: Mate thanks so much for doing the BIAB summary stuff. That was a great effort. Interesting stuff on the high gravity beers. Your experience reflects ThirstyBoy's assumptions though he said a similiar decreas would occurr with batch-sparging. (I don't really understand all that stuff by the way ;) but I'll get there.) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Hopefully someone else will test out the high gravity beers alongside a batch-sparger. I'd do it but I can't even handle normal strength beers.

Pat, the drop in efficiency is higher gravity beers is simply because of the amount of sweet liquid that is trapped in the left over grains. A high gravity wort will not only have more sugar content per ml of liquid, but there will also be more grams of grain for the liquid to be trapped in.

This isn't the case with fly sparging, because you are rinsing out the sugar with pure water, you could theoratically rinse out basically all the sugar if you just kept on sparging. Yeah, its more complex than that, but its close.BIAB and Batch sparging are much more simple because of the homogenous nature of the sugar solution, whereas there is a gradient accross the grain bed in fly.

Suffice it to say, that in both BIAB and batch, as you increase the gravity of the beer and the mass of the grain, there is an increase in the proportion of sugar left behind in the grist when you pull the bag or drain the tun. The proportion is different between batch and BIAB because of the "batch" aspect. The second and maybe third drainings in a batch sparge are much less concentrated.. so while the amount of sugar lost to the grist also increases with gravity and grain mass in batch, it increases at a slower rate than it does with BIAB

You can crunch the numbers yourself --

extract loss to grist in BIAB = gravity of wort to kettle (plato) x volume of Wort lost to grist in ml

extract loss to grist in Batch = 0.3333 x graity of wort to kettle (plato) x (Wort lost to grist + Wort left in MT dead space)

throw in the numbers for a sliding increase in gravity and grist and make a graph

I've assumed that the lost wort in a batch sparge has a gravity of one third that of the kettle wort because thats roughly what it is in my system. It'll change depending on how you conduct your batch sparge, but the principle will be the same. You also need to remember that most of the time, BIAB loses less volume of wort to grain than does batch sparging, and has no dead space.

When you make these two graphs, you will see that at certain gravities BIAB has less totally unrecoverable sugar than batch sparging but batch overtakes BAIB as the grian bill increases. Where that crossover occurs depends on the size of your Mashtun deadspace and how much liquid you lose to your grain in each method.

If you are 2 lazy to crunch the numbers yourself here is one I prepared earlier. I assumed a pre-boil volume of 30litres. A wort to grain loss ration of 0.5litres per kg for BIAB and 1.1 litres per kg for batch and there are three seperate graphs for three different sizes of mashtun deadspace. The whole thing is expressed as percentages of the final amount of extract in the kettle

data on the first sheet, graph on the second ok

View attachment BIAB_vs_Batch._Sugar_extracton.xls

The upshot of this is that it really isn't that big a deal. I just compensate by using a sliding expected efficiency when I BIAB. I start with an expected efficiency (into the kettle) of 75% @ a gravity of 1.030 and I subtract an efficiency point for each ten points of gravity that comes from grain

so
1.04 = 74%
1.05 = 73% etc etc
1.1 = 68%

and that works for me.

I dont really bother when I batch sparge, maybe a couple of points between an ordinary bitter and a barleywine if I am feeling keen.

Now there are practicalities and other real things that get in the way of nice clean maths. Your method of dong things may be twice as efficient as mine or it might suck. Doesn't really matter, this effect MUST occur given the nature of the methods. Its just a matter of what the rates and proportions are.

I get perfectly acceptable efficiencies with BIAB even at 1.09 (the biggest beer I have BIAB'd) even if they are generally a little lower than my batch sparege effs. Its just nice to know that you need to take into account the size of the grain bill.

Thirsty
 
Wow another great post Thirsty .. Great stuff .. Just love a good graph. Thanks for the effort with all this stuff , it realy helps .. Great work.
:beer:
 
Good post Thirsty.

The figures you gave sum up what i have found to be the case on my equipment.
ie. The black beer I have going down ATM OG 1048 = ~74% efficiency;
A brown Ale I did 2 weeks ago OG 1052 = ~73% efficiency etc.

Not really a big drama, and that's using a corona style mill for the grain. I can only suspect that my efficiencies will go up when I get a roller mill.
 
I've been having one small flavour coming through in Batz's Altbier that people have found hard to name. It's like a really slight medicinal taste but it's not an infection.

Hi Pat,

Have you checked the clarity of this one; is it developing a slight haze? This sounds similar to one of the problems Zizzle was having with the long term health of his BIAB brews...

cheers Ross
 
Thirsty: You're a champion! My ols are moving back to Sydney this week so I haven't got much time on my hands. I'm going to enjoy studying your post above in my off-time. Many thanks for taking what must have been ages on your post above. Excellent!

Ross: This altbier has me buggered. It's the only ******* I'm getting this weird flavour on and guess what? I just tasted the one in the fermenter that was done with a slow boil and the bloody flavour is there again! Quite pronounced this time too.

I've never had any long-term stability issues with BIAB. I even brought that swap lager with only about 3 litres left in the keg from QLD to here. It spent about 8 weeks out of the fridge, crossed the Nullabor and had its last two weeks in a 42 degree shed! The bloody thing was fine at this end - lol! Still a pretty boring beer though for me.

My clarity out of the boil has been great though I've always used whirfloc or more recenlty Koppafloc so I'm not sure if the removal of these would show up anything. Clarity out of the fermenter I haven't checked for ages as I've been filtering straight from the fermenter. I better check this out on the next brew.

As I said, it's just this one bloody beer!

I'm doing a kolsch side by side with doogie in about two weeks so I'll keep a closer eye on all these aspects. He has a fridge in which we can ferment them together etc etc so it should be another interesting experiment.

I'm tempted to do the altbier with US-56 next time. I'm not sure what sort of beer that would actually give me :unsure: but I'm sure it would be very drinkable and would at least let help in working out whether this problem is unique to Nottingham for me or BIAB in general.

Anyway I love solving a mystery. Mind you, I wish I'd solved this altbier one several brews ago - lol!

Gotta go - removalists await!

Spot ya and thanks guys,
Pat
 
Edit: The below is mainly me thinking out loud but it may help someone else. Mind you there is a bit towards the end where I added another column to Thirsty's spreadsheet which you might find interesting.

Mornin' Thirsty!

I've been studying your efficiency post above further this morning (you wrote 2 A4 pages by the way - good on ya!) and had started to try to ask a question here on the 'batch' aspect. In the process of trying to write the question, I think I have realised where I have been going wrong.

To date, my thinking on the mashing and sparging process has been based on the asumption that we are dealing with a saturated solution of sugar in beer-making. This assumption was incorrect (wasn't it?)

If we were dealing with a saturated solution then it wouldn't matter how you applied the water to the grist - you are never going to get all the sugar out.

However, if we are dealing with an unsaturated solution, then the way in which you apply water becomes more important and will have an effect on how much sugar you can extract.

So, from your post and the graph I'm now thinking...

If BIAB didn't get the low wort-to grain loss ratio and the zero deadspace, then it would always be slightly behind batching even at low grain bills. Is that right?

I'm hoping you'll say yes as this will mean I finally understand this thing clearly!!!

This would also explain why in the side by side test BIAB/batch tests and my own personal BIAB/batch comparisons, the BIAB efficiency was on average around 5% higher. The deadspace on our batch systems becomes a key point. (I remember that I had to add water to the BIAB to dilute it down to the gravity of the batch.) Our deadspaces were probably higher than the 2.5lt maximum in your spreadsheet.

Yep! I think I have it now! I just added a new column to your spreadsheet and put 4lts of deadspace in for a mash tun. Doing this means BIAB would be ahead until you reeached a grain bill of about 7kgs.

Thanks mate! I think I finally have got it! Let me know if I haven't though ;)

We'll have to work out what the crossover 'mash tun deadspace' point is for a 5kg grain bill. This would be an interesting figure to know.

Now I'm worried that my excitement at understanding this may lead others to think it is a big issue. It's not. It is as you said just an interesting one. I better finish this essay with a quote form your post...

The upshot of this is that it really isn't that big a deal.

Thank you very much Mr Thirsty :super:
(Please tell me I have now 'got it!')
 
Thats more or less it Pat.

A batch is leaving behind some sugar solution, but it is a less saturated solution than BIAB.

So you are right, if you had a batch system that could lose only about 0.5litres per kg to the grist and had no deadspace, then it would always have less unrecoverable sugar than BIAB.

So each system has its pros and cons. and guess what?? they come out close to even
Cool

TB
 
My bag turned up tonight unexpectadly..... dont laugh im pissed :beerbang:

here it is sewn up. As the sleeping bag method as suggested. So see how it goes ay...

My_Grain_Bag.jpg

and here it is in the pot

Grain_Bag_In_Pot.jpg
was stitched and then double stitched with an overlocker :unsure: by the sounds of it,it sounds good :eek:) wateva an overlocker is.......

and here is Mrs Kingy drunk off my latest kegged brew.. ive never seen her so proud of my fridge :blink:

Beer_Fridge.jpg

Cant wait to see her after my first Biab Brew lol....

id love to brew now but i wouldnt have a clue what im doing so as soon as i wake up.....Its Biab Time...

cheers Kingy
 
Best of luck today Kingy. You've got great equipment there - that bag is really well done. :super: I have one really important question though...

Mrs Kingy got any sisters?

Thirsty: Thanks again mate. It's gret to finally hav my head around that one.
 
hey thx PP all going to plan right now and the aluminium pot holds temp really rell.

Mrs kingy has got 3 sisters but ive got the best from the litter :p

I know i shouldnt be having a beer right now but im fairly hunged over and a kilkenny is fixing that :)
 
Best of luck with your 1st AG Kingy :super:

cheers Ross
 
Hey thx heaps guys everything went to plan and tastes bloody beutiful alltho a little cloudy. So ill rack in a few days to clean it up a bit.

Me being a lopper i had a few pullys lying around and a climbing rope so i rigged up a pully system to make life easier

Pully_Set_up.jpg

and chilled with 2 bags of ice in the wheel barrow and water

Chilling.jpg

it took about 40 mins so ill have to work out something else before next time.

just another BIG thank you!! to everyone here who has given me plenty of advise and hints and tips on moving into this method. And to ross for ingredients and all my beer paraphenalia

And extra special thx to PistolPatch for putting the time and effort into writing the BIAB guide that was a huge help and it probably wouldnt have worked out if i didnt read that. :super:

I could probably talk that guide out word for word without looking at it :)

If the Brew shops werent closed tomorrow id probably do another one :beer:

cheers kingy
 

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