$30 BIAB vs $1000+ 3v herms

[Adr_0]

I think an STC1000 on a fridge makes heaps better beer than sitting the fermenter on the ground somewhere (or on top of hifi speakers, whatever you want). Not a 'vs' argument but an example of a dollar investment that absolutely makes better beer.

The rig investment stuff - and the reasons people upgrade so much - should be driven by function, and I guess a lot are. A 3V gravity system will work identically to a single-level RIMS system, but the RIMS has the advantage of bringing everything to a manageable height if you aren't setup with a good spot to put a HLT or you don't want to do your back in lugging something around.

Another great investment is putting graduations on your HLT, mash tun and boiler to see the actual levels you're operating at. Really, if you have enough information/measurements there's no reason you can't make consistently good beer. Automation should only come into if there is a functional limitation (e.g. not comfortable with 40L of hot water above your head, gas burner isn't consistent enough for recirc/decoction and you go to electric, etc.) or because it's a hobby and something you're proud of. Automation breaks, too.

Otherwise, there's no reason why a 438v gas turbine matrix PID control system makes any better beer, or even necessarily more consistent beer - if you have enough information (i.e. temperature, hydrometer, volume measurements, boiloff measurements, minimum drain levels in mash tun, etc.) and the knowledge to understand its significance.

 

[Diggles]

I'm BIAB and it does the job fine, but moving to 3V in order to brew larger batches, being more time efficient. It will also let me experiment with different yeasts etc....furthering my understanding. Pick the gear that suits you, your knowledge, amount of effort your willing to put into it. Remember, it will take time whenever you make changes to get to know what's happening and get consistent results.

Bottom line...have fun, enjoy the process and good beer will follow.

Diggles

 

[Bribie G]

I'd definitely avoid the STC 1000 - all you ever see are threads complaining about it, you don't see masses of FridgMate threads. Go FridgeMate.

 

[Bribie G]

Also a knowledge of C++ is a must for seriously producing good beer, for example (thanks to RandyRob for the code)
Very nice declaration of variables there.

/*

* HASP (Halfluck Automated Stir Plate)

* An open-source Stir plate for Arduino.

*

* (cc) by Rob Hart

*

* http://www.halfluck.com/automation

* http://creativecommons.org/license/cc-gpl

*

* v 0.1

*/



int PinStirplateMotor = 13;



byte totalsteps = 2;



byte stirplateontime = 10; //how long in minutes to run stir plate for

byte stirplateofftime = 50; //how long in minutes to wait before running the stir plate again



unsigned long previous_millis_value = 0;



int step = 1; // start at step 1



unsigned long cumulativeSeconds = 0;



unsigned long startstep = 0; // placeholder for the starting of step time

unsigned long stopstep = 0; // placeholder for the stop of step time

unsigned long steptime = 0; // time in milliseconds required for this step

int timercalculated = 0; // has the timer for a timed step been set (initially = false)



void setup() // run once, when the sketch starts

{

pinMode(PinStirplateMotor, OUTPUT); // sets the digital pin as output



}



void loop() // start of actual sketch, run over and over again

{

//while (step<=totalsteps) // this will stop the code from restarting from here on in!

{

switch (step)

{

case 1:

digitalWrite(PinStirplateMotor, HIGH);

if (!timercalculated) {

startstep = millis(); // start step clock, reads milliseconds from this moment

steptime = (unsigned long)stirplateontime*60*1000; // calculate the end of step from the configuired time "stirplateontime"

stopstep = startstep + steptime; // calculate the end of step from the configuired time "stirplateontime"

timercalculated = 1; // don't do again whilst in this step

}

if (millis()>=stopstep) { // time has finished

digitalWrite(PinStirplateMotor, LOW); // turn stir plate motor off

step++;

timercalculated=0; // next step's timer not yet calculated

}



break;

case 2:

if (!timercalculated) {

startstep = millis(); // start step clock, reads milliseconds from this moment

steptime = (unsigned long)stirplateofftime*60*1000; // calculate the end of step from the configuired time "stirplateofftime"

stopstep = startstep + steptime; // calculate the end of step from the configuired time "stirplateofftime"

timercalculated = 1; // don't do again whilst in this step

}

if (millis()>=stopstep) { // time has finished

step++;

timercalculated=0; // next step's timer not yet calculated

}

break;



}



while(millis() - previous_millis_value >= 1000)

{

cumulativeSeconds++;

previous_millis_value += 1000;

}



}

}

 

[Adr_0]

I'd definitely avoid the STC 1000 - all you ever see are threads complaining about it, you don't see masses of FridgMate threads. Go FridgeMate.

Sorry - I saw a heap of references to them and thought mine was the same. I have a Craftbrewer Tempmate that has been magic.

 

[Edak]

Let's go.. I'll pack the mini keg!!

That would be awesome, I just went to yarra bend driving range instead because I couldn't get onto a course.

 

[RdeVjun]

An aspect often overlooked in comparative analyses is that much of the value of $30 Stovetop BIAB is in an accessible pilot method for novices: A cheap and simple demonstrator on readily- available equipment, but in terms of the end product it has just as much potential as other methods. Establishing a conventional multi- vessel all- grain method usually requires investment of some hundreds of dollars and no small risk in the modifications (eg. keggle mods), whereas $30 Stovetop BIAB is as simple as it gets with few or even zero modifications necessary at all.

Novice kit brewers can indeed knock out their first all- grain beer without firstly sourcing, paying for and then adapting equipment for the purpose, finally getting to mashing in anger and so on much later. If I wanted to increase the degree of control over, or the diversity and quality of my own beers quickly and without all that mucking about, I could say, over cornflakes this morning, decide to start brewing Stovetop BIAB, all the gear is quite commonly available from chain stores so source it all within hours, then following one of the many helpful guides start my first all- grain batch at lunchtime, wrap it all up around dinner and pitch the following morning. Obviously this is contingent on sourcing ingredients as well, all methods face this challenge however more LHBSes, even in regional centres, seem to be getting the picture regarding grain, hops and yeast.

With the method (or variations) knocking off gongs from club up to national level with monotonous regularity, there should be little doubt that with the cheapest and most basic equipment, development of the brewer's techniques, skills and understanding is really all that stands between ordinary swill and top shelf beers- thankfully a lot of that knowledge and the experiences have been written down and shared amongst us all. Brewing $30 Stovetop BIAB does indeed have limits, they are easily hit (eg. batch volume, spousie wanting the kitchen back etc), however by that point the real value of the method in training and development should have been realised.

My 2c, FWIW.

 

[Bribie G]

I'm planning to get into BIAC

(brew in a cauldron)

 

[Yob]

I'd definitely avoid the STC 1000 - all you ever see are threads complaining about it, you don't see masses of FridgMate threads. Go FridgeMate.

really? :blink:

I see lots of threads about people not knowing how to wire them not about faulty units, maybe Ive just missed them.

I use one to control my HEX and have it calibrated to the mashmaster probe in the MT.. thing hasnt missed a beat in many many many brews..

that siad Ive always had a spare wired up just in case

 

[manticle]

Wort production is easy.

It is beer production, the cold side, that is the difficult part. I reckon sanitation, temperature control and yeast health, in that descending order, make up ~80% of the quality of the finished product. Recipe 10%. Your system and procedures, and other miscellanea, the remnant.

Go with the equipment that suits you, that won't break your budget, and that will make you happy every time you brew with it. In the end, 2v, 3v, 3+v or BIAB, it doesn't add up to a hill of beans if you don't have your cold-side procedures right.

To an extent but mash at 70 degrees, put 1 kg of crystal in a 20 L batch or use an inappropriate yeast or the wrong hop at the wrong point and all the cold side in the world won't make your beer good.

Everything you do is important but you can produce quality wort with any of the systems as long as you understand the principles at work, including recipe development, mashing processes and the system you are using. You can then use that quality wort to make quality beer, so long as you understand that side of things as well.

 

[Radroo]

Glad I read this post... as the advice is good and has helped me

I BIAB and have been getting Ok results from the 8 or 9 brews and had convinced myself my rig was holding back from making excellent brews!
I like gadgets and have HB friends with 3v HERMS rigs and create fantastic quality beer.
But on reflection, they all have a solid understanding brewing/ingredients and it is their KNOWLEDGE that is making their beer fantastic... not their equipment.

Agree that some $$ investment in quality equipment does help make better beer - temp controller, reliable thermometer are examples.

Think I have convinced myself to keep with BIAB and my wallet in my pocket, at least until i feel like I have further edumacated myself on home brewing :beerbang:

 

[Lord Raja Goomba I]

To an extent but mash at 70 degrees, put 1 kg of crystal in a 20 L batch or use an inappropriate yeast or the wrong hop at the wrong point and all the cold side in the world won't make your beer good.

Or emergency repairs to the water mains during the middle of brewing a barleywine. Hoping no sparge & panicked no 60 minute addition meaning a no chill late addition with a 'clean' hop won't ruin what looked like being a good beer.

Moral of the story - no matter what brewing equipment you have, the odd disaster brew day is still inevitable. I had hoped to have drinkable beer in my new digs before it happened.

It makes you appreciate the other 95% of brewdays that go well.