1st Brew On Braumeister - Pics

[Mr. No-Tip]

Can another 50l BM owner do a fill test of their rods? I found 5l more, not 1l more as the 20l owners are noting.

 

[Dan Pratt]

When I first started to use my 20 Lt BM my end volumes seemed higher than calculated from the using the markings on the centre rod, so I chagned the way I measure the volume. By entering the height of the water ( measure with steel rule ) into an online volume calc I can now get the right numbers/litres each brew. By now i should have made a cheat sheet for this process.

As for boil of rates - i put the lid on 2/3rds for a vigorus rolling boil, plus I have insulated the unit with some cheap camp matting and set on 102.

• Without the matting, very mild boil.
• With the matt but without the lid partially over top, medium boil.
• With matting and lid 2/3rds over I get a constant rolling vigorus boil. (The evaporated water runs along the lid and drips on the bench which has a cloth the absorb the water)

Has anyone considered to make a hood like the copper ones but by using a stainless steel colander with the base cut out?? Would that work.

 

[Rurik]

depending on how high above sea level you are you should still get up to 101 at least.

if you only reach 98-99 then something doesn't seem to be right.

Not sure if I understand the 'should' in your post.

The system should be able to hit 101? It can, I just don't set it that high.

I should put it that high? Boil seems pretty decent at 99, that's why I stopped bothered going higher, and never had any DMS issues, so figured it was vigourous enough. We're at 571m and that is supposedly boiling point: http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/boiling-points-water-altitude-d_1344.html

I might try a 101 next time and see how it goes. (and lose the boiloff numbers I figured out today!)

I live in Canberra & brew on a BM. I do all my boils at 98 with no problems, when I fist got the BM I was worried about it not getting to 100 but then I ended up at the same website you posted. As to the DMS thing I dont think you need to worry about it at the BM scale as the boil produces enough mechanical agitation of the wort to drive it off. Also there was a great fact sheet from the IDB (that I now cannot find) that suggested the most important part of the boil (in relation to DMS) was the reduciton of the wort, it suggested that if some sort of mechanical agitation was used (say pumping the wort and returning it to the kettle through a spray ball) boil temps could be lowered to 80 Deg C*.

* As I cannot find the aritcel on this I will not quote it as gospel. Take it with a grain of salt I could be remembering it wrong.

 

[Mr. No-Tip]

I live in Canberra & brew on a BM. I do all my boils at 98 with no problems, when I fist got the BM I was worried about it not getting to 100 but then I ended up at the same website you posted. As to the DMS thing I dont think you need to worry about it at the BM scale as the boil produces enough mechanical agitation of the wort to drive it off. Also there was a great fact sheet from the IDB (that I now cannot find) that suggested the most important part of the boil (in relation to DMS) was the reduciton of the wort, it suggested that if some sort of mechanical agitation was used (say pumping the wort and returning it to the kettle through a spray ball) boil temps could be lowered to 80 Deg C*.

* As I cannot find the aritcel on this I will not quote it as gospel. Take it with a grain of salt I could be remembering it wrong.

Sound good, mate, why haven't we seen you at Canberra Brewers?

 

[Dan Pratt]

just a question on DMS - do you think Speidel would sell or have for sale copper hoods for the 20 & 50lt models if DMS was actually a problem at this scale?

I ask that becuase with the shape of those BM hoods, the evaporation would have to be dripping back into the wort, unless the shape creates otherwise.

 

[Brew Matt]

just a question on DMS - do you think Speidel would sell or have for sale copper hoods for the 20 & 50lt models if DMS was actually a problem at this scale?

I ask that becuase with the shape of those BM hoods, the evaporation would have to be dripping back into the wort, unless the shape creates otherwise.

Not sure wether DMS is a problem at this scale or not (there are different views on this at either end), but vapour does condense and drip back into the wort. Ralf at Speidel has indicated that some sort of an attachment that fits between the BM and the copper hood to catch the condensation and allow it to be diverted elsewhere is an interesting idea, but not economically viable.

My idea was to have some sort of tray/catchment fitting that goes around the circumference of the BM rim, and diverts the water travelling back down from the copper dome, and allows this to drained via a small outlet (then caught in a cup etc from there).

If anyone has the ability to manufacturer one of these inexpensively, I am happy to share my idea. Perhaps this fitting would replace the rubber piece that currently sits between the BM and the hood? Could be made from injection moulded silicone or plastic (ss or copper would be good, but I expect quite expensive and difficult to do).

Probably more detail than what a home brewer needs to worry about, but if it makes even a very small difference,.....

 

[Rurik]

Sound good, mate, why haven't we seen you at Canberra Brewers?

I went once, not my thing. I worked in a HB shop for a few years and am a little over listening to brewers tell each other how good they are. Maybe I got the wrong end of the stick or maybe I am a little sensitive. It is not something that really interests me.

 

[razz]

I would have thought that adding the cooper to the kettle is similar to partially covering a pot with a lid and the intensity of the boil will increase. A good rolling boil is one of the desirables for driving off DMS.

 

[Nibbo]

Ever tasted the condensate from the boil? Boiled cabbage. I did a brew day with Matt from Forrest brewery a while ago and this was one of the things pointed out to me.
After that experience, I don't let the condensate drip back into the boil.

 

[Wimmig]

I've had various runs with lid, partial lid, no lid etc for trial and error. I think if I did a boil at the normal 101c/102c I do them at, with the BM jacket on and lid on 2/3 or full then it would boil over. Lid off, jacket on the boil is ferocious.

 

[mash head]

These things do look like the ducks guts. Lots has changed since I was last around here.
I am interested in the wort clarity, are people using good milling practices or is it the way the wort is recirculated through the grain almost like a continual sparge that gets it so clean. Or a bit of both.

 

[stakka82]

1 mil crack gets crystal clear wort for me every time. I have even mucked up on occasion and gone .7-1.3mm with no efficiency, clarity or wort fountain issues. And yeah, it's like a continual sparge.

 

[Malted]

Can another 50l BM owner do a fill test of their rods? I found 5l more, not 1l more as the 20l owners are noting.

I have a 50 and reckon I am way overdue to do this.
I had a situation in which I must have loosened the rod (perhaps due to over tightening the top wingnut and thence needing some force on the rod to loosen it) because it leaked through the base by the rod nut. I tightened the rod nut and reckon I may have over tightened it as the seal inside the BM is bulging from the disc. It was a panic situation as it was full of wort. Might have changed the tie rod markings a little.

 

[Edak]

Not sure wether DMS is a problem at this scale or not (there are different views on this at either end), but vapour does condense and drip back into the wort. Ralf at Speidel has indicated that some sort of an attachment that fits between the BM and the copper hood to catch the condensation and allow it to be diverted elsewhere is an interesting idea, but not economically viable.

My idea was to have some sort of tray/catchment fitting that goes around the circumference of the BM rim, and diverts the water travelling back down from the copper dome, and allows this to drained via a small outlet (then caught in a cup etc from there).

If anyone has the ability to manufacturer one of these inexpensively, I am happy to share my idea. Perhaps this fitting would replace the rubber piece that currently sits between the BM and the hood? Could be made from injection moulded silicone or plastic (ss or copper would be good, but I expect quite expensive and difficult to do).

Probably more detail than what a home brewer needs to worry about, but if it makes even a very small difference,.....

What I did for my system is use a piece of FG hose with teeth cut out of it then wrapped my hood with it...

like this: The jaggered edge goes inside so the condensate goes into the channel.
[VVVVVVVVVVVVVV]
[-------------------------]

Pic of my system (which shows the cheap-*** hose, but not how it drains)
http://aussiehomebrewer.com/gallery/image/7175-during-a-boil/

The hose joins at the back, where it drains into a jug. During a 90 min boil I get about 200-300ml condensate in the jug, which is better in there than in by brew! My cheap dome was about $10

 

[verysupple]

Not sure if this is off topic or not, but don't see the point in starting a new thread for a question that has a) probably been asked many times before (yes I did search just didn't find the answer) and b ) any BM user could answer instantly.

I'm interested in getting a 20 L BM and was watching their bumf videos on their website. Apparently for mid gravity and above beers you do a concentrated boil and then dilute. I currently do concentrated boils on my stove top system and have noticed that although my beers form a great head, it lasts no time at all (this is for anything from special bitter to hefe weissbier). Is it something to do with concentrated brews (as was suggested in an episode of either Brew Strong or The Jamil Show on The Brewing Network) or is it more likely to be something more fundamental in my technique?

FYI: I know how to clean glassware and never had the problem with kit, extract or partial mash beers. It only seems to have happened since I started AG.

EDIT my "b)" turned into an emoticon

 

[Dan Pratt]

Just buy one, you won't regret it.

 

[DeGarre]

These things do look like the ducks guts. Lots has changed since I was last around here.
I am interested in the wort clarity, are people using good milling practices or is it the way the wort is recirculated through the grain almost like a continual sparge that gets it so clean. Or a bit of both.

Bit of both but the emphasis on circulation. When I used a very good crush (not floury) the wort seemed to clear quicker:

 

[mash head]

Thanks for that Degarre, its about as I suspected. That is amazingly clear, I could look at that all day. Its pretty well a wort fountain with the grain trapped under the inner sieve. Impressive. If I wasn't so far advanced with other plans I would seriously consider 1 of these. Its given me some good ideas anyway.

 

[Mr. No-Tip]

Apparently for mid gravity and above beers you do a concentrated boil and then dilute.

I don't know about the head thing, but I wonder if the dilution point could make a difference? Post ferm dilution is very popular with macrobrews. I tried it once when I shot over G on a BIAB, but it's not something I'd aim for.

What I have done many times is added water after sparge, before boiling - yes it's a dilution, but I've not had any noticable correlation to head retention issues with this approach.

 

[Wimmig]

Bit of both but the emphasis on circulation. When I used a very good crush (not floury) the wort seemed to clear quicker:

Never get tired of that. Clear every single batch!