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People expect a very high level of carbonation in soda water. My customers arent that keen on 200 kPa. Cold keg, 300 kPa and shake for 10 mins or until its getting near equlibrium and the customers are much happier. Pour at 300 kPa as well, which means a flow restricter in the line is handy...

I'll take two.

I bottled one lot with a green tea bag in each bottle. "Dry teaed" if you will. I really liked it, but no-one else did. When you pop the cap, the tea bag rises in the bottle and stirs in the yeast which is a bit annoying.

Plenty of threads on here about green tea lager and how to do it. I have made it twice and highly recommend it. Search on username Asher. He has also done Earl Grey versions, but I think he added pure bergamot rather than tea.

One data point. When looking for leaks, I used to use my spray bottle of othophosphoric acid made at sanitiser rates, it has a surfactant, so is good for finding leaks. Within a month or so the JG fittings were completely stuffed, the plastic went white, the stainless steel teeth fell out...

If the kettle and burner are the same, then evaporation is mostly controlled by the air flow over the kettle and the humidity of the air. Both of which should mean less evaporation in a shed compared to outside. Maybe a lot of your burner heat gets blown away when outside?

Actually Batz, I just bought a millmaster. The Valley was a great mill for its time, and has given me a great crush. I wore out several bolts with my drill on the driven roller which tells you something. But, I think like all non geared mills, the knurl has become so worn after years of...

I guess if you no-chill putting a mill on a brewstand is probably safe. But I use a chiller and there is no way I would lay a blanket of lactic across gear that is going to be in contact with chilled wort at the end of the process. You may be lucky, and it may work out, but why take the risk...

Hi Bigfella As far as I can tell nothing has been deleted from the thread so I guess your posts never made it? I think you have had issues in the past with getting access to AHB, and POL used to do it instead, maybe its the same thing?

Indeedy, economical and reliable, I have run 7 for a long time, although it is worth knowing that the action will tend to stick if the tap isnt used for a couple of weeks, so you need to flick them open every now and then to make sure they dont stick.

They get tighter if you put standard beer line on the disconnect barb, cut it off at the end of the barb, then put the big line on top of that, and clamp the whole lot.

To find out whether the keg holds gas and the relief valve is blocked, or the keg does not hold gas and the lid is tight, depress the poppet (middle bit) on the gas in post. If no hiss, no gas.

Where is jovial monk when you need him?

There are a few opinions about boil vigour, and if you have a good search you will find most of them expressed in a few threads on here.

I think that is a Mongolian burner, and that is just what they do, smoke the crap out of what you put on them.

Nice to see that even industry people like Wes call them rice gulls these days.

Shhhh....don't mention the hosegate

The one I set up had a similar problem, there is a poor fit and the flow control doesnt work properly with the tap on tight. One tap is worse than the other, but I am only using it to dispense soda water at 300 kPa so fortunately more restricted is better. I think the problems you guys are...

Does a 50 l keg fit in the Pinnacle things? I thought they were designed for 30 l kegs? Havent tried it though, could be wrong.

Having used both a lot I don't really get the "nothing comes close" thing. I do prefer 1469, but 1968 works just as well for me. I think you would probably make a better beer with a brand new fresh pack of 1968 than with a multi generation 1469 of potentially dubious origin.