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Thanks guys. I've always chilled the fermenter and haven't noticed any problems but out of curiosity I've asked this question. I've sometimes had the water accidently go back in but didn't noticed any problems, so what I do is only fill minimal water in the airlock, Otherwise I have another...

Hi there, I have a silly (well maybe) question. Usually when I brew, I chill the fermenter in the fridge for at least a week? Noticably when it is chilling, the airlock bubbles in reverse which tells me air is returning into the fermenter. I do ferment 20 litres in a 27 litre fermenter and...

Rich uses plenty of dried yeasts. The Kiandra Pils is now using the S-189 after a long run with the Kolsch yeast. 189 is a great yeast - clean at any ferment and conditioning temps. I only brew lagers and I've used dried yeasts for years, and have used liquid lager yeasts like Budvar but...

Do you mean "S-23. I thought S-33 is an ale yeast.

Hello everyone, I was gonna brew a Coopers Brewmaster Pilsener kit and it says it comes with a true lager yeast? Does anyone know what strain it is? Saflager maybe? Hopefully the S-189 but I doubt it. cheers Deevee

Priming does help clean the beer out but honestly I cannot detect any diacetyl after primary fermentation. I usually pitch 2 sachets of dry yeast in 20 litres of wort (usually pitch 34/70 in one and 189 in another as I do double batches), ferment between 9 - 11c for up to 3 weeks and then leave...

I don't do diacetyl rests at all. And all I brew is Lagers using either 34/70 or 189 yeasts. I leave my beers conditioning (Naturally primed kegs) for at least 6 weeks and the beers are fantastic.

TL, when you said the "Real Thing", I thought you meant "Real Lager". I totally understand, yes to make an Urquell or a Budvar, you would best use the Urquell and Budvar yeasts respectively. However yeast is one thing, malt and hops are the big beasts. There is no way through my experience...

Trough Lolly, what do you mean by getting close to the real thing? There are heaps of breweries who use 34/70 yeast for their commercial lagers. What makes the Liquid yeasts more "Real"?

No worries. Thanks for that. My plan is to add the gelatin in the primary, then cool it in the fridge for a week and transfer to keg. Then hopefully reuse that yeast for another batch. Plan to reuse the yeast three times as I normally do.

Excuse my ignorance but how would I do that? Would I have to tilt the fermenter and draw off some yeast or rack to secondary first and add teh gelatin in the secondary?

Hello everyone, I have a question regarding reusing the yeast slurry in the primary fermenter which has gelatin in it. Has anyone did this before? I assume that there is plenty of yeast in the slurry but would the gelatin which has dropped off with the slurry cause any problems. My normal...

9 * 40 litre batches = 360

about 5 - 7 foot (1.5 to 2 metres) of 5mm line should be okay. 50cm is definitely too short.

Oh excellent, VB + add a little Soda water + caramel colour = VB Midstrength. just like Cascade Light: Crown Lager + add a little soda water + caramel colour = Cascade Light hahaha

He uses B Saaz hops and Saflager W34/70.

I do a protein rest at 55c for 10 mins then raise it to 70c for 60 minutes. In fact I mash at 70c for everything. :beerbang:

I wouldn't go past 18c. Rest 16 - 18c for about a day or two. You will risk developing acetaldehyde if at higher temps. S23 may be a fruity lager yeast anyways - haven't tried that one for years. It is also important to store your finished product wheter in a bottle or keg at cold temps too...

I've brewed about 20 beers using Saflager and ferment them from 10c to 15c and had no real problems with them at these temp ranges. Ferments in 7 days for around 12 to 14c providing you do a good yeast starter or pitch and rehydrate correctly (usually at least 11gms of yeast per 5 gallon...