Stc Wiring Diagram For Hlt Element?
- Thread starter scottc1178
- Start date
Help Support Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum:
Juzdu
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- 26/10/12
- Messages
- 144
- Reaction score
- 0
How is it that that diagram has the Brown "live" wires going to 6 & 8, whereas the other (much fancier) diagram doing the rounds on another site has live going to 5 & 7?
http://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/viewtopi...=23&t=17872
If you wire it from an internet diagram using the terminal numbers without checking the unit there could be a chance you **** it up.
labels
Well-Known Member
There are no wires going into 7 & 8, they are cooling relay contacts. He has supply going 1 &2, loops active through to 5, one side of heat relay, 6 the other side goes to element, tap out from 2 to the other side of element while 2 & 3 are for the probe - if that makes sense.
Juzdu
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- 26/10/12
- Messages
- 144
- Reaction score
- 0
Huh? 2 & 3 are for the probe? Aren't 3 & 4 for the probe? And how is there no wires going into 7 & 8, when there's clearly a wire going from "live block" to no. 7 on the STC1000?
I'm not trying to wire one of these up btw, I don't even own one...just trying to understand how it's done out of interest. I thought I had it but you've lost me!
If i had to guess I would say that Labels made a typo about the temp probe from 2 and 3. It is 3 and 4 as you can see in picture.
Regarding the "Live" to 7 in your reference that is only required if you plan to run the cooling side of the STC. In the OP's setup he is only using the heating side. (No need to send power somewhere for nothing).
Easy really.....
Goid
Juzdu
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- 26/10/12
- Messages
- 144
- Reaction score
- 0
Thanks Gold, agreed on the typo, I thought i'd been licking my krausen for a second there though. I wasn't actually commenting on the OP, I was just saying the diagram that had been linked, the hand-drawn MS paint one, showed live wires connecting in to 6 & 8, whereas the much more pro looking drawing has the live wires going into 5 (for cooling) and 7 (for heating), which I believe is correct for every STC1000 i've seen. Maybe they changed 'em at some stage?
Juzdu
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- 26/10/12
- Messages
- 144
- Reaction score
- 0
My STC-1000 arrived today, and while looking for pics on the web of how people have mounted them I came across and excellent step-by-step guide on how to wire them up. For your licensed electrician's use only, of course:
http://urowiki.filecore.net/index.php/Thermostat
I wonder if this should be made a sticky given how much interest there is in these devices amongst home brewers.
http://urowiki.filecore.net/index.php/Thermostat
I wonder if this should be made a sticky given how much interest there is in these devices amongst home brewers.
I still like mine
Make's it clear and look as simple as it is (for you electricians)
QldKev
Juzdu
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- 26/10/12
- Messages
- 144
- Reaction score
- 0
Yours is different too, in that your 240v supply is going into 6 and 8, whereas the instructions above have it going into 5 & 7, with 6 being the active output for heating, 8 the active output for cooling. I'd imagine they'd have the same result, when it closes/makes the circuit on the input or output probably doesn't matter. On mine and on the wiki I linked above it has the circuit broken on 6 & 8, which most seem to prefer to use as the output side.I still like mine
View attachment 58469
Make's it clear and look as simple as it is (for you electricians)
QldKev
Yep, at the end of the day it's not a real issue. It's just the way I was taught to switch circuits going by the diagram on the stc-1000 itself. I was told it can have an effect on the number of clear contacts made.
Best real world example is the old manual points setup in a car. Look at the way it's switched.
QldKev
Best real world example is the old manual points setup in a car. Look at the way it's switched.
QldKev
FFS
The 240V Supply (Active and Neutral) is wired to 1 & 2 so the device will work. Actives (brown) to the outputs (heating and cooling) are switched by contacts 5 & 6 and 7 & 8.
Think of 5 & 6 and 7 & 8 as the contacts of two switches. The neutral and earth from the supply cable are connected to each output (heating and cooling). Devices plugged into the outputs have to be switched on by switching the active to the outputs. To turn the devices on the active must be switched to complete the active circuit to each output.
The active from the supply cable has been wired to terminals 6 and 8. When cooling is switched the contacts 7 & 8 are made switching the active to the cooling output. When heating is switched the contacts 5 & 6 are made switching the active to the heating output.
Screwy
Crusty
Well-Known Member
Is this diagram ok to go with as I'm about to wire two STC 1000's up tonight?QldKev said:I still like mine
stc_1000.JPG
Make's it clear and look as simple as it is (for you electricians)
QldKev
Heating & cooling hard wired just like this.
Not for an element though, just for the fermentation fridge.
I've got a few wired as above. Except hard wired? The cords are not directly to the fridge etc. They are female extension cords.
ie Get 2 extension cords and cut them in half. One male is used to supply the stc, and you use both female ends for the outlets.
Some where in this thread it should have pics
ie Get 2 extension cords and cut them in half. One male is used to supply the stc, and you use both female ends for the outlets.
Some where in this thread it should have pics
Crusty
Well-Known Member
Thanks Kev.QldKev said:
I was planning on the same. I stole a couple of the kids lunch boxes for now & installed 3 cable glands in the back of each one.
I was looking at the extension cords as well so if I follow your diagram above I should be sweet?
Crusty
Well-Known Member
I have one wired up & working perfect;y so cheers Kev.
Both my STC 1000's don't have the Celsius symbol on the top right like some of the older models.
I've seen quite a few builds that have the Celsius feature but these date back pre 2012.
Maybe this is standard now, not too sure.
guy has the same one as me.
Both my STC 1000's don't have the Celsius symbol on the top right like some of the older models.
I've seen quite a few builds that have the Celsius feature but these date back pre 2012.
Maybe this is standard now, not too sure.
guy has the same one as me.
Last edited by a moderator:
Crusty
Well-Known Member
I'm obviously not an electrician & could tidy the wire lengths up a bit but it's working perfectly.
I followed QldKev's wiring diagram & a big shout out to you Kev, thanks heaps. ( Wire at your own risk of course. )
I will be setting up another one when I can get a decent project box & will probably re-do this one as well but for now, the $1.50 Wayne's world lunch box will do.
Sorry for the crappy phone photo's.
I followed QldKev's wiring diagram & a big shout out to you Kev, thanks heaps. ( Wire at your own risk of course. )
I will be setting up another one when I can get a decent project box & will probably re-do this one as well but for now, the $1.50 Wayne's world lunch box will do.
Sorry for the crappy phone photo's.
