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Stc Wiring Diagram For Hlt Element?

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scottc1178

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hey guys,

just wondering if there is a wiring diagram around for wiring up an STC to a U element for heating only in a HLT?

.. have looked around and only found heating and cooling.. or keezer setups.

cheers.
 

labels

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Just use the STC for switching only, wiring instructions come with it. You need to get something like a 25amp relay which the STC will switch on and off and control your element

The STC is good up to 99C, if you want more you might have to go PID, they go a lot higher and they have better ramp whereas the STC has no ramp.

Steve
 

scottc1178

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Just use the STC for switching only, wiring instructions come with it. You need to get something like a 25amp relay which the STC will switch on and off and control your element

The STC is good up to 99C, if you want more you might have to go PID, they go a lot higher and they have better ramp whereas the STC has no ramp.

Steve

thanks labels,

the element is only 2kw, which should run comfortably on 10A, is the relay still required?
 

labels

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thanks labels,

the element is only 2kw, which should run comfortably on 10A, is the relay still required?
I reckon you should be okay as long as you use the correct gauge wire. The thing I don't like about these controllers is there is very little separating active and neutral on the terminal block at the back of the unit.

I soldered the ends of all my wires to just in case a loose wire filament bridged the terminals, I think this is good practice.

Nevertheless, a relay is only a few bucks should you decide to go down that track. An in-line fuse is also a good idea between the controller and the element.

Steve
 

jaypes

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2kw will be fine for the STC, although multiple opens/closes can bugger the contacts over time - it is always better to use a relay, if that dies you buy another one which is about 1/3 of the price of an STC
 

JPAT

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I reckon you should be okay as long as you use the correct gauge wire. The thing I don't like about these controllers is there is very little separating active and neutral on the terminal block at the back of the unit.

I soldered the ends of all my wires to just in case a loose wire filament bridged the terminals, I think this is good practice.

Nevertheless, a relay is only a few bucks should you decide to go down that track. An in-line fuse is also a good idea between the controller and the element.

Steve
Not a good practice to solder 230 volt wiring
 

beerdrinkingbob

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hey guys,

just wondering if there is a wiring diagram around for wiring up an STC to a U element for heating only in a HLT?

.. have looked around and only found heating and cooling.. or keezer setups.

cheers.
Think the guy that drew this name was woods, a magnadoodle genius cleary...


linkage
 

jaypes

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Not a good practice to solder 230 volt wiring
Why not? I used to be a sparky, when we ran short of cable or needed to do a join soldering was the best option over mechanical bonding. Even more so in 3 phase 415v

And we use 240v not 230v in Australia
 

NickB

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Yep, soldering is fine, and is the preferred option for earthing.

As for tinning the ends of your wires - I wouldn't recommend it as it doesn't give as good grip on the screw as bare wire. Try twisting the wires with pliers then inserting into the back of the STC.

Apprentice sparky here too.
 

Lakey

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Why not? I used to be a sparky, when we ran short of cable or needed to do a join soldering was the best option over mechanical bonding. Even more so in 3 phase 415v

And we use 240v not 230v in Australia
Soldering is ok when joining cables but not ok when tinning ends when terminating cables.2012_11_01_13.33.42.jpg in australia nominal voltages are referred to as 230 and 400 not 240 and 415 anymore, something to do with bringing up to international standards (they have been drilling this in our heads at tafe). So you can still read 240 or 415 because this is within the 5% tolerences.
 

NickB

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Knew another knowledgeable QR fella would have a rule book handy ;)
 

NickB

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Because its the rules! To do otherwise is illegal.

The real reason is because a tinned cable could potentially heat to the point of slipping out of a screwed terminal when the solder melts - especially of the screw is not overly tight, creating a 'hot joint' - this is where the cable is heated because of poor contact.

Everything in the AS/NZS3000 (Australian and New Zealand standards for electrical installation) is there for a reason....

If you're not confident with your wiring job, get it checked out by a licensed sparky... Could sae your life in the event of a fault.

Cheers
 

Lakey

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Good that the rule book states 'what' not 'why' :(
Yeah the rule book is so f'n hard to follow they dont give the why's, but behind every rule is an electrocution or a burnt down house
 

Lakey

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Knew another knowledgeable QR fella would have a rule book handy ;)
I knew that shit was in the rule book somewhere it was bugging me so I had to look it up.
 

emnpaul

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Bootlace pins will solve your problem regarding flyaway strands and are the preferred alternative for terminals when panel wiring. Add the cost of crimpers and pins to your STC-1000 and it's getting out of hand though, so just twist the wires up neatly and you'll be sweet. If you can't twist them neatly enough and that's quite likely, then get someone qualified to do it.
 

jaypes

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Soldering is ok when joining cables but not ok when tinning ends when terminating cables.View attachment 58203 in australia nominal voltages are referred to as 230 and 400 not 240 and 415 anymore, something to do with bringing up to international standards (they have been drilling this in our heads at tafe). So you can still read 240 or 415 because this is within the 5% tolerences.
Ahhh ye old AS3000
Are you sure that rule is for fixed installations or portable appliances?
I learnt it back in the day then they decided to change it all, nice work. I was never comfortable putting unlimited gpo's on a circuit just because its protected bt a cb or hrc fuse, bloody ridiculous imho
But back on topic, get a sparky ( current and licensed) and they will know to do it all legally for you
 

emnpaul

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Ahhh ye old AS3000
Are you sure that rule is for fixed installations or portable appliances?
I learnt it back in the day then they decided to change it all, nice work. I was never comfortable putting unlimited gpo's on a circuit just because its protected bt a cb or hrc fuse, bloody ridiculous imho
But back on topic, get a sparky ( current and licensed) and they will know to do it all legally for you
I'm sick to death of the changes too.

Just as a point of trivia and full O.T. it's now 230V +10 or -5%.

Edit: Scott, make sure your HLT (I'm assuming it's metal) is SECURELY EARTHED. Don't rely on the earthed sheath of your element to do it for you, especially if using a compression washer sealed element.
 

scottc1178

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I'm sick to death of the changes too.

Just as a point of trivia and full O.T. it's now 230V +10 or -5%.

Edit: Scott, make sure your HLT (I'm assuming it's metal) is SECURELY EARTHED. Don't rely on the earthed sheath of your element to do it for you, especially if using a compression washer sealed element.

cheers lads,

all good, the earth is terminated to a screw point inside the diecast box which the stc is mounted in (which is held to the side of the HLT keg by the element) cables all coated in heat shield (to protect against potential heat from the element). All wires twisted and trimmed with my trusty channel-lock pliers before termination....

I'm not an electrician, but I do work with a lot of them, and even though I'm quite confident with wiring, and about 99% sure that its all up to scratch, I'll be having someone look this over before I use it, and I encourage anyone who's not a sparky to do the same, electricity aint to be messed with.

here's how she looks:

IMAG0420.jpg

IMAG0419.jpg

she may not be pretty, but I can see her inner beauty!!
 

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