Sanke Fermenter Kit

[balconybrewer]

Any reason you can't just reassemble the original fittings, having cut the dip tube a little, Hook up a standard coupler with some QDs attached and away you go?

 

[MastersBrewery]

Any reason you can't just reassemble the original fittings, having cut the dip tube a little, Hook up a standard coupler with some QDs attached and away you go?

do you mean for each brew? Some of the HTB guys have shortened the dip tube. When using as per my last post most are transferring to serving kegs, then recircing PBW or caustic through for say an hour, then star san, good to go again.
Anything that can survive a hot caustic bath for an hour deserves to live I'd say.

MB

 

[Camo6]

Any reason you can't just reassemble the original fittings, having cut the dip tube a little, Hook up a standard coupler with some QDs attached and away you go?

It'd probably work out cheaper this way but I had most of the bits already from earlier purchases so the money was already spent and I couldn't just let the bits go to waste. Plus I love working with metal so any excuse to use a mate's lathe and clean the dust off the TIG welder. I've got to admit that by the time I'm finished I will have used more bits than necessary and probably spent more than a coupler and bits would have cost. But it will keep me busy for a while and sated from all the shiny baubles that arrive in the mail.

 

[woodwormm]

i've got a corny top welded to the top of a 50L keg too, mostly used as a fermenter, sometimes used as a serving keg.

I've bent the dip tube up but i find this an unreliable way of getting max volume out of the fermenter.

I'll be picking up a floating pick up tube from Ross and giving it a go soon.

 

[Camo6]

A bit of progress made today. Pipe bent and a quick buff to match the fittings. Now waiting on some more bits from China to finish it off. Still tossing up whether to add a thermowell to the fitting. I've got the tube and could squeeze it in so I might as well, I guess.

 

[Camo6]

A bit more progress made. I'm a bit reluctant to drill a 12mm hole for the thermowell after the tig welding in case its too hard. Probably should have done it first. Any metal fabricators on here think otherwise?

Now I need a spunding valve. Anyone have experience with the KK ones?

 

[mckenry]

Now I need a spunding valve. Anyone have experience with the KK ones?

I have one. worked ok.hard to get the pressure just right though. i also found it a pain filtering gassed up beer.

 

[Rurik]

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A bit more progress made. I'm a bit reluctant to drill a 12mm hole for the thermowell after the tig welding in case its too hard. Probably should have done it first. Any metal fabricators on here think otherwise?

Now I need a spunding valve. Anyone have experience with the KK ones?

I tried to get a manufacture to make something like this (the only thing I wanted different was a PRV added) they said they had made on before and it never sold. It was sold as a keg conversion kit; I asked them did they think about marketing it as a different product. Never heard back. If anyone wants to make the Tri-clove fitting I will buy one (or four)

Cheers
Rurik

 

[Maheel]

would be pretty easy to make one up and use silicone hose instead of stainless.

put a stainless nipple on the pickup tube to keep it pointing down.


I have made plenty of copper discs that fit on a keg just like that triclover cap using the triclover clamp
you could then easily solder / braze in some nipples (or even a bit of the keg dip tube) for the hoses to connect to on the disc.

not as bling as SS but easy to fab up at home

 

[Camo6]

I have one. worked ok.hard to get the pressure just right though. i also found it a pain filtering gassed up beer.

Cheers Mckenry. I take it you don't ferment under pressure still? My main focus with this project is to be able to ferment (and transfer) double batches in stainless but I'd like give this pressure thing a go. Though I have a filter I'm yet to use it so that aspect shouldn't bother me yet. I'll give the KK valve a go.

Rurik, if I had my own drill press and lathe and more bits floating around I'd make you one. I can see how it wouldn't be very cost effective to produce these without buying parts in quantity. All the parts I used would probably equal the cost of a sanke kit without taking in to account the labour. Luckily I already had most of the bits.

A PRV is a good idea though I'm hoping the blow-off plus allowing sufficient head space will prevent uncontrolled pressure build up.

Maheel, I agree there's many ways to skin a cat. My initial plan was a silicone bung, airlock and auto siphon. But then along came ebay...

 

[Tahoose]

I'm planning to pressure ferment in an "A" type keg and scored a second hand coupler from Keg King for $40.

I got a couple of ball lock connections which screw onto the coupler and plan on buying the spunding valve from craftbrewer.

I may run the gas out into a corny (blow off) when I get to bigger batches but for now I'm only brewing 24 Ltrs so not an issue yet.

I have an outline for a ferment schedule but I've rambled on enough and I'll document it all once I have given it a go.

 

[Camo6]

Nice! Keen to hear how you go. Will you trim the pick up tube on the keg?

I'm keen to see how my adjustable racking arm goes at harvesting yeastcake after racking the beer. I suspect using 5mm beer line might be too narrow for thick slurry but could always leave some beer behind to dilute.

 

[Rurik]

Rurik, if I had my own drill press and lathe and more bits floating around I'd make you one. I can see how it wouldn't be very cost effective to produce these without buying parts in quantity. All the parts I used would probably equal the cost of a sanke kit without taking in to account the labour. Luckily I already had most of the bits.

The company I was talking to already carried all of the parts as stock. The only thing they would need to have made especially would of been the Tri-Clover cap with three threads to fit the compression nut/PRV/gas inlet. They could of left of the PRV fitting if they wanted to, which would of made it even simpler. As I had said they had made made them before; they had just marketed them to the wrong part of the market. I have worked in retail all of my working life & even spent more years then I care to remember in the HB industry. There was/is a market for this product.

 

[Camo6]

Build it and they will come!

 

[Tahoose]

Nice! Keen to hear how you go. Will you trim the pick up tube on the keg?

I'm keen to see how my adjustable racking arm goes at harvesting yeastcake after racking the beer. I suspect using 5mm beer line might be too narrow for thick slurry but could always leave some beer behind to dilute.

At this point whether I cut down the tube or not is my biggest dilemma, I'm leaning towards yes at the moment as a new spear is only $20.

 

[blekk]

Now I need a spunding valve. Anyone have experience with the KK ones?

Im currently putting one to together that has an adjustable pressure relief, pressure gauge (reads both + and - psi) and toying with the idea of a quick disconnect for transferring from fermenter to keg under pressure. Ill post a pic a little later

 

[Camo6]

Any chance of posting a list or links to the bits as well?

 

[blekk]

Gauge -
SWAGELOK - PGI-63C-PC30-LAOX INDUSTRIAL PRESSURE GAUGE 1/4" NPT Male 30/30

Got it cheap from here

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/291159120745?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649


Relief Valve -
Control Devices CR Series Brass Pressure Relief Valve, 0-100 psi Adjustable

Again this is the cheapest I found it that ships to Australia

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/371125743636?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

The T I had lying around and I have a tri clamp coming. I also ordered a 4 way so I have to option to put a quick connect on it in the future.

**EDIT FOR EXTRA DETAILS** - these are NPT threads on the gauge and relief valve