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Rims Element

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barls

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ok looking at an element for my rims tube.
looking at this one
http://www.stoveconnection.com.au/shop/ind...s/kz24hq00.html
the length isnt a problem as my tube is 660 long.

my current reasoning is that a longer element would be better as its less heat output per cm therefore a lower density unit? is this correct.
is there any possible problems with this style of unit.
cheers barls
 

razz

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You reasoning is on the money Barls, but that element would still be considered high heat density, just not as high as something a bit shorter. I would be looking for something longer to suit your tube. With a high heat density element plenty of flow through the tube is essential to keep removing heat from the element.
 

thebigwilk

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ok looking at an element for my rims tube.
looking at this one
http://www.stoveconnection.com.au/shop/ind...s/kz24hq00.html
the length isnt a problem as my tube is 660 long.

my current reasoning is that a longer element would be better as its less heat output per cm therefore a lower density unit? is this correct.
is there any possible problems with this style of unit.
cheers barls
Where did you get your RIMS tube from thats a pretty good length tube any photos? or links im looking into getting one too, would be much appreciated
 

barls

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no one else want to put in any input on this
 

razz

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I don't think at those wattages that there is much difference Barls, apart from the obvious. Are you doing single or double/triple batches?
FYI I'm using a 950 watt element that really suffers in cold weather so I will need to insulate it if I brew again in the next two months.
 

barls

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doubles normally.
i know about the cold weather down there mate, lived one town over for 18 months.
im really struggling to find something with a lower value than 1800.
 

razz

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Don't struggle too much, I'd buy the 1800 or 2400, you should get fast ramp times with larger wattage. I think regardless of the wattage they all have the ability to boil dry and end up with wort stuck to them so flow management is the key. One good thing with using a high wattage is getting strike water up to temp really quickly by recirculating, even with 30 or so litres.
 

matho

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hey barls,

the 2400w element would be about 56w/in[sup]2[/sup] which is close to the infamous keg king element which weights in at about 60w/in[sup]2[/sup], and people are using that without scorching issues. The 1800w is about the same w/in[sup]2[/sup] so there would be no advantage gained in using that one. As jazz said its all down to flow control. It would be nice if the RIMS tube had a thermal well actually inside the tube, then you could stop the temperature of the wort inside the tube from going over say 80deg, this would allow you some sort of failsafe if the flow stopped.

cheers steve
 

barls

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ill have to have a chat to you once i get this set up mate as ive currently got provision for two temp senders due to having two thermowells in it. think ill just buy the 2400w one and see how i go.
may need one of those controllers after all.
ill start with the pid though.
 

booargy

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I would try to get an 3600w and use one of these to bring it back to 10A. It is what I am planning on my upgrade.
 

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