Removing The Plastic Lining From Fridge Door

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RiRo

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I just picked up a Hoover 480L Black Orchid fridge from a friend which I am planning to modify into a 4 tap kegerator .. its working but missing the fridge door seal. That's not really an issue, I've ordered a replacement seal :)

My question is ... to fit several kegs in the fridge I needed to remove the plastic fridge door lining (where eggs, milk etc usually go) ... once that was removed the yellow insulation foam is exposed. Is this going to be a problem in terms of the fridge operating efficiently? I've also noticed now that the foam is exposed, once I drill holes for the taps, when I tighten the nut on the tap shank its going to cut into the foam ... any suggestions?

Also, now that I have removed that lining, the seal will no longer be secured by the screws applying pressure between the plastic lining and the actual fridge door (hope that makes sense), so my second question is ... should I use some silicone to 'glue' the seal to the door ... or cut out (or seperate) the plastic door lining so that I am left with a 'ring' allowing me to screw the now 'empty' door lining back in, thereby securing the new seal?

Hope that all makes sense.

Cheers
Viv
 
I just picked up a Hoover 480L Black Orchid fridge from a friend which I am planning to modify into a 4 tap kegerator .. its working but missing the fridge door seal. That's not really an issue, I've ordered a replacement seal :)

My question is ... to fit several kegs in the fridge I needed to remove the plastic fridge door lining (where eggs, milk etc usually go) ... once that was removed the yellow insulation foam is exposed. Is this going to be a problem in terms of the fridge operating efficiently? I've also noticed now that the foam is exposed, once I drill holes for the taps, when I tighten the nut on the tap shank its going to cut into the foam ... any suggestions?

Also, now that I have removed that lining, the seal will no longer be secured by the screws applying pressure between the plastic lining and the actual fridge door (hope that makes sense), so my second question is ... should I use some silicone to 'glue' the seal to the door ... or cut out (or seperate) the plastic door lining so that I am left with a 'ring' allowing me to screw the now 'empty' door lining back in, thereby securing the new seal?

Hope that all makes sense.

Cheers
Viv
Why not put the plastic back on the inside of the door and just cut away the parts that are obstructing. Use a piece of timber to stop the plastic from cracking when you do the tap's up. Pretty sure there is a thread on here that goes through modifying a fridge in this way.
Cheers
 
Put something over the foam? A nice sheet of metal or plastic. Solves all 3 problems. Gives something for the taps to hold against, covers the foam, and lets you attach the seal.

Have no idea where to get metal? How about from the side of a dead fridge?
 
This might be of some help, I removed the plastic liner and replaced with a sheet of plastic lined (mdf/timber) sheeting. Keeps moisture inside the fridge nicely. I used the original seal as it turned out.

My Fridge Conversion Thread
 
This might be of some help, I removed the plastic liner and replaced with a sheet of plastic lined (mdf/timber) sheeting. Keeps moisture inside the fridge nicely. I used the original seal as it turned out.

My Fridge Conversion Thread

Yup, a sheet of masonite, cut to the same size as the old plastic lining with holes drilled where the screws went through the plastic one, just to make sure it lines up correctly.
 
I did the same thing with an old fridge I used to use for fermenting.

Linky
 
This might be of some help, I removed the plastic liner and replaced with a sheet of plastic lined (mdf/timber) sheeting. Keeps moisture inside the fridge nicely. I used the original seal as it turned out.

My Fridge Conversion Thread

That would have been my first choice for covering a door. Over hear they call it shower board, however, last time I was at the big box store of hardware and lumber they now have plastic sheeting for putting in wet areas. All of the old covered wood product I have ever seen had blisters from moisture getting under the top layer. Cost was about the same as the wood stuff. Has a smooth back and a nice texture on the front.

Do you have the same available down there?
 
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