New Kegging System

[jobler]

Hey guys,

Been lurking around here for a while now and have got some really good tips on homebrewing which has eventuated in quite a few good brews! I'm at that stage where I am developing a severe dislike for bottling day, so am looking into getting a small 2 keg setup going. I have a spare fridge to use, but probably want to stick to using something like a bronco faucet rather than taps on the outside of the fridge for the time being. I am in Perth, so I do have a slightly limited selection of where I can shop (postage is almost never an option with kegs!).

Unfortunately Craftbrewer don't have the 4 keg @ $240 incl postage deal on anymore which is a bit disappointing as I have seen a lot of posts saying this is a very good deal, so I am looking elsewhere. I noticed Brewcraft (yeah I have heard they are expensive!) have a two keg system with a beer gun and fittings for $299 at the moment, which also comes with a regulator, so I guess from there all I would need is CO2, but people always say that prices are better elsewhere. I can't seem to find anywhere else that is much cheaper than this deal! Does anyone here have any recommendations for elsewhere, or could confirm whether this is actually a decent price at all? I don't mind going for a drive if the price is good enough.

Also, with regulators, I understand that these should be high quality due to them being an integral part of the setup. Are there any recommendations on brands?

Brewcraft deal is here: http://www.westbrew.com.au/showProduct/Keg...ystems/0440232+

Thanks to anyone that can help!

 

[iralosavic]

eBay is a good place to start looking. If you're buying second hand cornelius kegs, I'd suggest also getting a seal kit, so it therefore makes sense to source the cheapest kegs possible seeing as you'll be reconditioning them anyway. There are 2 pin lock kegs for $100 delivered (at least to my door) on ebay. The disconnects are around 10-$20ea. Hosing and clamps under $10 and you can get a good quality regulator for $80 these days. Micromatic being a good example of this.

If you've got a fridge that you're dedicating to the kegs, why not plumb in a long shank tap? You can get a chrome one for under $50 delivered, then all you need is a drip tray (and co2). All you have to do is drill a hole to suit the shank then screw on the lock nut on the inside. They come with a shoulder that seals it all up. Just remember when drilling through anywhere OTHER THAN the door, you must be cautious not to penetrate gas lines etc. The door is the safe bet.

Based on some of my own shopping around, I've managed to get a complete 4 keg set up ready to convert into a keggerator, with a 2.5kg co2 for under $550. Based on what you'ved linked to, you're looking at paying even more for a 2-keg setup. Just some food for thought.

 

[kelbygreen]

I would be interested to know what you are getting with that deal. are the kegs pin lock or ball lock? what line and how they are fixed? what type of d/c you are getting and the biggest is prob what sort of regulator it is.

pin locks are cheaper (ball locks dearer)
line is different sizes and you dont want to fix them in a way that they may come off.
the d/c are different of coarse I dont know much about pin locks but with ball locks you can get the cheaper d/c which have plastic internals or there is the dearer ones that have SS internals I think the dear ones are cornelius and the cheap ones are like cmb or something, the dearer ones have a dome top and the cheap ones have flat.
and the reg well you can spend $300 for a reg alone so finding out what one it was would be good.

 

[jobler]

eBay is a good place to start looking. If you're buying second hand cornelius kegs, I'd suggest also getting a seal kit, so it therefore makes sense to source the cheapest kegs possible seeing as you'll be reconditioning them anyway. There are 2 pin lock kegs for $100 delivered (at least to my door) on ebay. The disconnects are around 10-$20ea. Hosing and clamps under $10 and you can get a good quality regulator for $80 these days. Micromatic being a good example of this.

If you've got a fridge that you're dedicating to the kegs, why not plumb in a long shank tap? You can get a chrome one for under $50 delivered, then all you need is a drip tray (and co2). All you have to do is drill a hole to suit the shank then screw on the lock nut on the inside. They come with a shoulder that seals it all up. Just remember when drilling through anywhere OTHER THAN the door, you must be cautious not to penetrate gas lines etc. The door is the safe bet.

Based on some of my own shopping around, I've managed to get a complete 4 keg set up ready to convert into a keggerator, with a 2.5kg co2 for under $550. Based on what you'ved linked to, you're looking at paying even more for a 2-keg setup. Just some food for thought.

Thanks iralosavic, checking on eBay there do seem to be some nice deals for 2 kegs. I tend to steer clear of ebay for stuff like this but it looks pretty good. I have heard ball lock are better than pin (but more expensive) because it is easier to source parts for them, is this right? Ball lock seems to be about $15 more expensive per keg which may help in the long run.

I do want to plumb in taps, I just didn't want to do it just yet! I guess its an added expense if I do it down the track so I might as well get it done the way I want it now. I have done a lot of reading on drilling the fridge so should be good with that

Under $550 is definitely where I want to keep my costs, so with a 2 keg setup it looks like I have a lot of choice. Thanks for the input, and I'll keep checking out ebay now that I know the ballpark figure I should be paying for something like this.

 

[jobler]

I would be interested to know what you are getting with that deal. are the kegs pin lock or ball lock? what line and how they are fixed? what type of d/c you are getting and the biggest is prob what sort of regulator it is.

Thats a good point. I'll give them a buzz tomorrow and find out all the details. It seemed like a good deal on paper but looks like I may be sourcing parts individually to get it cheaper.

 

[Diesel80]

Jobler,

Where in perth are you?
I may be keen in halves of a 4 keg deal if you can find one.

Also get something with 6mm barb fittings and buy yourself some flexmaster || 5mm ID 8mm OD line. Good stuff once on.
Stepless clamps are also good for the gas lines.

Just set my first keg setup up myself. Fun times

Cheers,
D80

 

[iralosavic]

Thanks iralosavic, checking on eBay there do seem to be some nice deals for 2 kegs. I tend to steer clear of ebay for stuff like this but it looks pretty good. I have heard ball lock are better than pin (but more expensive) because it is easier to source parts for them, is this right? Ball lock seems to be about $15 more expensive per keg which may help in the long run.

I do want to plumb in taps, I just didn't want to do it just yet! I guess its an added expense if I do it down the track so I might as well get it done the way I want it now. I have done a lot of reading on drilling the fridge so should be good with that

Under $550 is definitely where I want to keep my costs, so with a 2 keg setup it looks like I have a lot of choice. Thanks for the input, and I'll keep checking out ebay now that I know the ballpark figure I should be paying for something like this.

Yeah, don't bother with a beer gun if you already have a keggerator build in mind. Not only will the $100 beer gun be a waste, but you are getting it as a part of an expensive deal too, so you miss out on the deals you can get by mixing and matching sellers/shops for certain parts.

Many ebay stores that sell kegs cheap are simply blokes with the capital to afford buying them by the thousands directly from coke/pepsi factories. A few actually pass on some of the savings. I was lucky enough to be able to pick up some kegs from one such seller and the resulting cost was under $40 per keg. He even threw in some seals and a lid for free. Mine are pin-lock.

Make sure you understand why some people prefer ball locks before making your own decision. A lot of it has to do with compatibility with fellow brewers for keg swaps or simply because that's what the started out with and they want to keep them all the same, but realistically, all you need are a set of ball lock quick disconnects to combat either scenario. I personally chose pin locks because I prefer the stockier dimensions (others who actually want to squeeze 3 or 4 kegs in a fridge, might prefer the pepsi shape) and I didn't see the difference between using a poppet valve or pressing down on the gas post as being a good enough reason to swing one way or the other. For me, price/availability won out = pin lock. It's also handy that you can't get the gas and liquid posts mixed up, as there are two pins on one and three on the other.

I don't think pin-lock kegs are less servicable. In fact, the absence of a poppet valve means that you have one less place for pressure leaks to occur in. I'd take this as a reminder that it is always wise to understand the facts before jumping on a band wagon. You may still go with ball lock, but at least you'll know why.

 

[DU99]

have you tried my beer shop i know there in melbourne,no harm in trying

 

[jobler]

Yeah, don't bother with a beer gun if you already have a keggerator build in mind. Not only will the $100 beer gun be a waste, but you are getting it as a part of an expensive deal too, so you miss out on the deals you can get by mixing and matching sellers/shops for certain parts.

Many ebay stores that sell kegs cheap are simply blokes with the capital to afford buying them by the thousands directly from coke/pepsi factories. A few actually pass on some of the savings. I was lucky enough to be able to pick up some kegs from one such seller and the resulting cost was under $40 per keg. He even threw in some seals and a lid for free. Mine are pin-lock.

Make sure you understand why some people prefer ball locks before making your own decision. A lot of it has to do with compatibility with fellow brewers for keg swaps or simply because that's what the started out with and they want to keep them all the same, but realistically, all you need are a set of ball lock quick disconnects to combat either scenario. I personally chose pin locks because I prefer the stockier dimensions (others who actually want to squeeze 3 or 4 kegs in a fridge, might prefer the pepsi shape) and I didn't see the difference between using a poppet valve or pressing down on the gas post as being a good enough reason to swing one way or the other. For me, price/availability won out = pin lock. It's also handy that you can't get the gas and liquid posts mixed up, as there are two pins on one and three on the other.

I don't think pin-lock kegs are less servicable. In fact, the absence of a poppet valve means that you have one less place for pressure leaks to occur in. I'd take this as a reminder that it is always wise to understand the facts before jumping on a band wagon. You may still go with ball lock, but at least you'll know why.

Great advice thanks! I think I might as well go with the pin locks with this in mind. I want to keep costs low and everywhere I look, they are cheaper. Thanks also to DU99 for recommending mybeershop.com.au - their prices are good and they seem to have a good rep around here.

So I am basically ready to drop some cash for this gear pretty soon. My shopping list is as follows

2 pin lock kegs
pair of disconnects
new seals for the kegs
co2 regulator
a couple of clamps
about 8m of food grade hose (5mm?)
some hose clamps
co2 (probably going with a converted fire extinguisher, but will shop about for this)
2 good quality taps

Is this basically all I should need? Bit confused on the hose, both the length and the width of the tubing.. I know each situation is different but i plan to have the co2 sitting right next to the fridge, and two kegs inside with two taps on the front of my fridge. Obviously if i am ordering most of this stuff in i want to grab enough hose in my first order! I generally stick to ales and not lagers, and like a good level of carbonation.

Thanks to everyone that has helped so far, I think I owe a few beers around here

 

[kelbygreen]

You will need a non return valve and a line spliter for the gas line if you want to pour both at the same time. Also for 5mm line get about 2m per tap and enough to do the gas lines. If you want use 6mm you will need more not sure how much I use 5mm. Or get flow restricting taps

 

[bowser]

I have attached a spreadsheet which i used last month when purchasing my first keg system, it just list the prices and the supplier.

I am in Sydney so the delivery might be the killer for you.

Since then i have purchased an additional keg, i reckon you need at least three so you can have one ready to go once you have emptied one of your kegs.

View attachment kegs.xls

 

[bignath]

You will need a non return valve

Yep, dont find out why you need one the hard way...















Like i did.

 

[bowser]

The Tesuco reg i got has a NRV so saves you having to buy a seperate one.

BTW i got the curly hose bronco taps thats why there are a little more expensive, also the tube listed is for transfering to the keg.

 

[jbowers]

Tesuco regs have a NRV built in, just so you know.

 

[Amber Fluid]

Since then i have purchased an additional keg, i reckon you need at least three so you can have one ready to go once you have emptied one of your kegs.

OT sorry but I just had a chuckle.... looks like the bug is getting to you too. I only wanted 2 kegs but now have 11 :blink:

 

[bung89]

Tesuco regs have a NRV built in, just so you know.

Really?
Mine doesn't say anything about a NRV.
I went out and bought a valve to put in the line. Hope I didn't waste my money :angry:

 

[stux]

OT sorry but I just had a chuckle.... looks like the bug is getting to you too. I only wanted 2 kegs but now have 11 :blink:

I have 12, that'll be enough I thought...

Just today I was discussing with SWMBO why I *need* another 4

 

[Florian]

I'm surprised it hasn't been metioned yet, but pay a few $ extra and get the MFL disconnects instead of the barb ones.
It is well worth the extra outlay as it makes cleaning, changing, re-arranging lines so easy.

You will be doing this sooner or later and cursing yourself for having to force lines on and off barbs.

Have a look on the CB website or google if you sont know what MFL connections are.

 

[iralosavic]

I'm surprised it hasn't been metioned yet, but pay a few $ extra and get the MFL disconnects instead of the barb ones.
It is well worth the extra outlay as it makes cleaning, changing, re-arranging lines so easy.

You will be doing this sooner or later and cursing yourself for having to force lines on and off barbs.

Have a look on the CB website or google if you sont know what MFL connections are.

How do you connect the hose to the MFL QD? I have a gas line one that I connect to my 16g co2 charger, but I'm not sure what extra piece you'd need to connect hose to it.

 

[hsb]

You mean one of these?
http://www.craftbrewer.com.au/shop/details.asp?PID=744