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Malted

Humdinger
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Hello All, thought I'd show you what I have built and invite comment on it.


So here is how I have been using the vessels so far:
Left to Right: 50L Keggle & italian spiral burner, 50L electric HLT, 50L Mashtun.
Milk_crate_brewstand.JPG
The HLT has a sight glass tube with a piece of timber with volume graduations on it. When it goes below the sight glass bottom level, it still has 14 Litres left. Also when boiling, the level in the tube bounces up and down heaps; I have to turn off the power to be able to get a reading.

Yep the good old milk crate stand! I thought the axle stands holding up the italian spiral burner was a high tech touch!
Note the trolly in the middle (I am now turning that into a grain milling stand - more on that later).

Here's a closer view of the dodgy pump mounting:
March_pump_bodgey_stand.JPG

But heck, it all worked and I made drinkable beer. But that is not enough, I like to build things and the system was a PITA. Naturally a portable brewstand was going to emerge.

An $80, 140 amp stick welder and less than $100 of steel (including them cutting it up for me) and I am starting on a 2 tier brewstand. I figure on gravity feeding from the HLT to the mashtun and then pumping from Mashtun. This way I can fly sparge with only one pump.
Brewstand_1.JPG

Ah but it has three tiers you say. Well yes and no. If viewed with my current 50L vessells, it does appear to be a 3 tier.
Brewstand_current.JPG

But I have plans to make a new mashtun and a new keggle. I want to make a mashtun that drains from underneath instead of the side as my current one does. I also scored an 18 gallon keg that will become my new keggle and will allow me to do double batches more easily. Here is a look at how it becomes a 2 tier setup.
Brewstand_future.JPG

You can see here how I mounted the spiral burner. No imagination, just sorta copied how it was mounted in the factory burner frame. There would be endless possibilities on how to mount it, including all manner of arrangements to make it adjustable in height. I just made mine a little bit lower than the factory stand. It seems as though most people don't adjust it ever again once the have it dialled in right. I just took a punt on what I had observed using it previously. Time will tell if the proof is in the pudding.
Spiral_burner_mounting.JPG
You can see that the frame is made from 30mm box and 25mm angle as a cup for the kegs to sit IN. Most brew frames seem to have the vessels sitting on top of the frame. Since I wanted to be able to wheel my brewery around without the vessels sliding off or having to be bolted down, I made a square with the angle for the kegs to sit in. In hindsight a much larger angle iron would have been better - say 50mm or so.

I also made the extra support piece for the wheels on the outside of the frame to give it a wider wheelbase. I thought it would be more stable if the wheelbase was wider than the frame.
 
A bit more about the brewstand.

So here's some detail on how I mounted the March pump.
First I made a bracket to go between the housing and the motor:
March_pump_mount_1.JPG

And then put in some longer screws/bolts to secure it all together.
March_pump_mount_2.JPG

Then I took it apart and welded the bracket to the frame.
In this case I welded onto the wrong side of the frame:
Pump_mount_on_wrong_side.JPG

So I had to cut it off, grind it and reweld it to the other side.
You can see the wider wheelbase a bit easier in this photo. These are fixed caster wheels on the Keggle end whilst the HLT end has swivelling casters with wheel locking thingies. It is purely because the HLT end is higher so I can grab the frame to push it around.

Here's a picture, viewed from the rear of the brewstand, of how I have mounted the gas bottle in the frame. It is pretty self explanatory. I will use a chain around it to keep it in place.
Gas_bottle_mounting.JPG
I hope most gas bottles have the same sized base or I may have to make adjustments. I have only really tacked the angle iron on, just in case...


And here is the Monster Mill and a freebie motor (from a clothes dryer) sitting on the torlley whilst I think about how to mount them.
Monster_mill_mock_up.JPG
It is a 10" wheel on the mill. 12" might have been better but since it is a MM3 I'll see how it goes running a little faster. I also have a 1 1/4" pulley on the motor now. The pulley pictured on the motor was not for a v-belt. I have it at the stage where it is almost ready to rumble/mill but haven't taken any photos recently.
 
And here is the Monster Mill and a freebie motor (from a clothes dryer) sitting on the torlley whilst I think about how to mount them...

...It is a 10" wheel on the mill. 12" might have been better but since it is a MM3 I'll see how it goes running a little faster. I also have a 1 1/4" pulley on the motor now. The pulley pictured on the motor was not for a v-belt. I have it at the stage where it is almost ready to rumble/mill but haven't taken any photos recently.

Keen to see this part of the build inparticular as it evolves, as I need to motorise my MM2 one day too mate.

Great build thus far. :icon_cheers:
 
Keen to see this part of the build inparticular as it evolves, as I need to motorise my MM2 one day too mate.

Great build thus far. :icon_cheers:
Thanks Raven.
I'll take some more photos soon. It is going to be overkill as I am planning a giant guard over the V-belt.
So far it has been pretty easy (and I have so many different ways to do it all fighting for space in my head) but measuring is important; I have mounted a few things by 'oh about here' and have had to problem solve other components to suit...

I have some electrical stuff maybe you could give me some advice on? It should be simple compared to wiring in PID's...
I think what I would like to do is run the motor power cable into a junction box that I can have a big on/off switch on and also be able to plug in the power lead that runs to the GPO. Any tips as to what specific materials to use or any other good electrical ideas? Is it possible to have something to reverse the polarity to make it spin in reverse in case it is needed to clear a hold up?

Edit: With the 10" pulley on the mill, a 1 1/4" on the motor at maybe 1440 rpm - the mill should spin at about 180 rpm - perfect. A 12" would only drop it to about 150 rpm. The little pulleys are cheaper, so if I want it spinning the mill faster I could get a 2" for the motor and spin the mill at 288 rpm.
 
I have some electrical stuff maybe you could give me some advice on?

I always exercise extreme caution with the wirings, as I am not an electrician! But happy to discuss at some stage sure.

Will send you a PM.
 
Great rig, Malted! Keep the pics comin!

Thanks, given the 'rig' you use at work (even though I can only imagine), that certainly is a complement.

Raven, given I have seen pictures of yours at least, I take your remarks as very encouraging too.

Cheers guys.
 
Rain stopped play for outside work this weekend, unfortunately I had to do some more in the shed... :D (amongst other things)

GRAIN MILL - update.

Mill_stand_1.jpg

(above) So I have utilised an existing trolley and there have been a few compromises given the depth of the mill, space required for the pulley and depth of the trolley itself. This is what you get for modifing something rather than building it. You can see the pieces I had to add to be able to bolt the mill down.

Mill_stand_2.jpg
And here it is with it's tin top on the trolley. You can see I have cut and folded the tin to form a bit of a shute under the mill.

Mill_stand_3.JPG
Here's the mill bolted to the stand, the motor in position and the milled grain receiver (bucket) underneath. It is all just temporary (including the starter swinging underneath).

Mill_stand_4.JPG
Motor detail. It seems as though the weight of the motor is enough force to act as a belt tensioner. I had thought of doing something else but this seems to be more than enough.
 
It is not finished but I had to give it a whirl, since I could...

So how does the mill go?
Not too shaby, thank you for asking!

Mill_stand_5.JPG

Speed seems great; fast but not too fast. Proof is in the pudding: husk is pretty much whole (or close to it) and grain 'bits' are fairly ground up (but not too much flour).
There is a lot of flour or 'dust' visible in the photo because this was the sacrificial grain's 2nd or 3'rd pass through (hey that was good fun! Put some more through to watch it again vs but don't waste any more grain).

Verdict: I'll have to test it some more but I suspect the motor maybe a little under powered for the MM3 but it certainly can be used if one is aware of it's idiosyncrasies.
 
Motor detail. It seems as though the weight of the motor is enough force to act as a belt tensioner.

I have seen a few others built like this, seems to work for sure! Looking great mate. Must get me a motor etc similar!
 
Verdict: I'll have to test it some more but I suspect the motor maybe a little under powered for the MM3 but it certainly can be used if one is aware of it's idiosyncrasies.

The motor definitely does not have the required grunt.
A few hundred grams of test grain does not compare to 4.5 kg for a batch!
It really did not like wheat. It would do it if I trickled it in a few grains at a time - I was using 800g so put it through separately to the rest of the grain bill. The wheat all went through great on the second pass.
A couple of stalls with the full 4.5kg sitting in the hopper that got going again once I spun the wheel by hand; I should not have to do that.
Adjusting the roller's gap is not an easy task, I'd rather get a bigger, beefier motor to make it go through good in one pass.
 

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