Lawn Mower Repairs?

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Fodder

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Hey folks,

Having a few issues with my old Victa 2 stroke at the moment. Appears that the old girl has never been serviced in its life so currently in the process of stripping it down and replacing piston rings, seals, plugs and carbi bits and bobs.

Anyway, while im at it, I was going to strip the whole thing and give it a good once over, but to do so I need to remove the blade holder plate from the under side of the mower, which is proving to be rather difficult...

Anyone have any ideas on how to get the bugger off without resorting to oxy-torches, impact wrenches or pnuematic (sp?) air-guns?

I have so far WD-40'd the crap out of it and pulled my arms off with the 19mm ring spanner...
 
Slide a pipe over the ring spanner for more leverage? Or is access a little difficult?
 
Should be able to give that a go. I've got some pipe around that might fit over the end...

But its more a case of being able to stop the plate from spinning whilst yanking on the nut. I've tried chocking with a lump of wood but it inevitably slides out of place.

Appartently theres a hole in the spindle that you can shove a metal bar into to lever against...but I dont exactly have a foot of 9.5mm diameter steel bar handy...(or whatever the hell it takes...)

I might just take it into the mower shop and get them to undo it for me and also get them to have a go at the crank arm locking nut too while they're at it. God knows I've bought enough stuff off them in the last week that they can spare 2 mins with the air rachet...
 
10mm drill bit? Big screwdriver shaft?
 
if you're going to pull the block apart and you want to stop the shaft from turning you could flood the cylinder completely (it petrol in through the spark plug hole) then refit the spark plug *without the lead attached*. should be able to turn it slightly to start the compression stroke and find that it won't compress (being liquid instead of mostly gas). That and a big torque wrench or the previously mentioned longer handle on the spanner should have you laughing. If not maybe tap the longer handle in short sharp taps to help get the ******* on it's way.
 
repairs best done while motor running....
 
if you're going to pull the block apart and you want to stop the shaft from turning you could flood the cylinder completely (it petrol in through the spark plug hole) then refit the spark plug *without the lead attached*. should be able to turn it slightly to start the compression stroke and find that it won't compress (being liquid instead of mostly gas). That and a big torque wrench or the previously mentioned longer handle on the spanner should have you laughing. If not maybe tap the longer handle in short sharp taps to help get the ******* on it's way.

That is a awesome idea :beerbang: . I have been in a similar situation and would have never though of that. +1 for this method.
 
Just an idea, you sure that you're not attempting to unscrew a reverse thread? Consequently you could be tightening it further.

The only reason i twigged on this is i repaired my coffee burr grinder on monday and the burr shaft has a reverse thread on it.
 
Rather than using petrol to flood the cylinder, try a length of skinny rope or cord. Just feed it in as far as you can then try to get the nut off. Make sure of the thread direction too...
 
Thanks for the tips folks...

Have checked the thread direction and its standard right hand thread so all good there. Drill bit did fit, but its not long enough to grip the chassis housing. I tried wrapping it in an old rag and holding onto it but I'm just too weak :(

I like the flooding of the engine idea, (might use rope though, seems like less faffing about) using the compression against itself might just work, particuarly as it will give me both hands free to wack it with a hammer coz the metal pipe I've got doesnt quite fit over the end for more leverage.

Will give that a crack over the weekend and see how it goes. If that fails, I'm taking it to the shop.

I'll let you know if I win...
 
104-178226.jpg

get it - use it
also get
2011-07-19_205403_impactdriver.jpg

and the correct sized 1/2" sq drive socket and use that. Not going to be great for the shaft but its only a 2stroke motor I wouldnt worry too much - they never balance properly anyway.
I actually would use oil over petrol or rope to 'cease' the engine.
 
Seize the piston and then get one of these or similar

http://www.sidchrome.com.au/product/7315/1...bar-with-impact

You can just get a standard breaker ($20-30 at Bunnings for a 1/2 drive one), decent socket (Kincrome, Sidchrome etc) and slot a bit of metal pipe over the end if you really need leverage. But a standard breaker bar will be tons better than a ring spanner

I love my breaker bar and torque wrench when I have to use them :)

Last time i had to take the bottom bolt off the crank on a mower I jammed a big screwdriver into the cooling fan assembly thing up the top of the crankshaft, but depends on the mower as to whether you have something strong and metallic up top for it to push against
 
Rather than using petrol to flood the cylinder, try a length of skinny rope or cord. Just feed it in as far as you can then try to get the nut off. Make sure of the thread direction too...


good idea, since its a 2 stroke, and has no definitive compression stroke, nor does have valves to contain fluids...

just grab ya rattle gun and go for it!
 
well spotted - didn't pay attn to the details. my bad.

During the compression stage of the stroke all the ports would be closed wouldn't they. Other wise compression would be unobtainable And you would harness any power from the fuel/air burning the expanding gasses would escape.
 
During the compression stage of the stroke all the ports would be closed wouldn't they. Other wise compression would be unobtainable And you would harness any power from the fuel/air burning the expanding gasses would escape.

Dunno, I`m too tight to waste a cup of petrol is all...
 

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