KK - 'Fermentasaurus' conical PET fermenter

Advertise with us
inkbird
shop deals on amazon
Shop deals on ebay
Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum

Help Support Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Have recently upgraded the tassels and added spokey dokeys. I ******* fly down the driveway now!
You cant do this from a normal fermenter, it has to be a pressure vessel.
Well worth looking into as a future upgrade. You can go the fermentasaurus option or what I have done which is getting a 50L keg, a coupler ,2 ball connects and a spunding valve. All up cost me about $100 and worth every cent.
 
100 bucks for the spokies and tassles, shit son...
comedy gold i say, once you get that basket on the front, you will be set!

yeah got a stainless FV need to check pressure rating, trust me im close!
may need a spunding valve though.
 
I am based in Scotland where this has just became available, I think I am going to buy one of these. What I was wondering if anyone has a chart or similar which correlates carbonation volume vs temp/PSI?

For example what is the best temperature to get 2.4 vols of Co2 when fermenting at 18C for an APA/IPA? I will be transferring to a keg in most cases anyway where I sometimes tap it all or other times tap some and bottle some with my beer gun, if unsure I could always ferment under pressure at a low PSI and then hook it up to my usual settings in the kegorator to ensure it is more likely to be undercarbed than overcarbed at this stage.
 
Thanks for this! Do the same rules apply when fermenting under constant pressure?
 
Yes, Co2 absorbtion is dependent on temperature, if you read back through the thread, you will note most will either close the spunding or set it higher when they raise temp for D rest, so therefore at the end of ferment the vessel will be at 20-25psi. Upon cold crash you should be at or close to full carbonation.
 
Right got you. I have ordered one of these with the pressure kit this afternoon and also already have a spunding so will be good to go. Thinking I will try it with a Kolsch to start as nice and simple with no dry hops. First couple of runs will be trial and error but all good. Thanks again.
 
I have had a few successes with fermentasaurus. However, yesterday, the pressure kit out became blocked - tried to blow back with CO2 (kind of forcing the gas onto the out post??) and certainly got CO2 back through the out post and into the brew (i.e. it was definitely bubbling). Then again could not draw any beer out to check SG. I tried to increase the pressure with a 16g bulb - the keg king mini regulator stating it got up to 30 psi, without luck. I haven't seen any other solutions bar the CO2 blow-back. Any ideas??

What are people doing to clean and sanitise the pressure kit mechanism?

WRT to the 16 g bulbs - i found it was not sufficient to push out 23 litres last time and had to break the oxygen-free zone to draw out the last of the beer.
 
Vazerhino said:
I have had a few successes with fermentasaurus. However, yesterday, the pressure kit out became blocked - tried to blow back with CO2 (kind of forcing the gas onto the out post??) and certainly got CO2 back through the out post and into the brew (i.e. it was definitely bubbling). Then again could not draw any beer out to check SG. I tried to increase the pressure with a 16g bulb - the keg king mini regulator stating it got up to 30 psi, without luck. I haven't seen any other solutions bar the CO2 blow-back. Any ideas??

What are people doing to clean and sanitise the pressure kit mechanism?

WRT to the 16 g bulbs - i found it was not sufficient to push out 23 litres last time and had to break the oxygen-free zone to draw out the last of the beer.
Click to expand...

I've had many a thick beer through the out post without it clogging - sure it's not picking up hop debris?

In terms of cleaning - Hot sodium percarbonate in the fermenter using C02 to push it through the out post and then into a bucket.

I haven't bothered with bulbs - straight from the 6.5kg bottle using a spare line from the keezer.
 
Certainly could have been hops - it is not a massive brew (grainkids sceptred warrior). Before i give up on an oxygen-free transfer, just more of the same blowing CO2 through the outpost?? Should i be using a liquid disconnect connected on the liquid post to the CO2 bottle, or just the regular gas post held on with a bit of force?
 
Vazerhino said:
Certainly could have been hops - it is not a massive brew (grainkids sceptred warrior). Before i give up on an oxygen-free transfer, just more of the same blowing CO2 through the outpost?? Should i be using a liquid disconnect connected on the liquid post to the CO2 bottle, or just the regular gas post held on with a bit of force?
Click to expand...

Don't give up - patience. Either will do.

I recently made a NEIPA with a total of 300g of dry hops (mix of flowers/pellets) and didn't have an issue with the posts being blocked.

Key is a good cold crash and make sure the pickup tube avoids picking up any debris near the bottom. I had one flower start blocking the intake. Gas off, tap the side of the fermenter to move the pickup tube away from the flower and connect again.
 
Just on a slightly diff topic - Bulk priming in the 'saurus - for bottling.
Curious if anyone has tried bulk priming through the Liquid disconnect? I'm thinking releasing all pressure and feeding 150g Dextrose (diluted in say 200ml water) though the disconnect. The sugar mix would be quite dense (about 1.2 SG) so it should settle through the wort I think?
Then bottle straight away.
Any comments?
 
Probably an easy thing and a good option. I'd be exploring buying a sounding valve, literally just picked up now from Steve, and using the main ferment to develop carbonation. Unless bottling carbed is a pain.... bit messy.

But defo a plan Yuz.
 
Last edited:
Is there any update on the fermentation chamber / fridge for the fermentersaurus?
 
Lent my picnic tap to a mate.

So the ferment fridge now has it's own Celli tap.
1508405343230447924054.jpg
1508405430684770560170.jpg
 
You have a HAL2000 fridge? "Open the fridge door HAL" "Get stuffed Brad"
 
bradsbrew said:
A sixty litre version would be good.
Click to expand...
Good luck carrying it :bowdown:but yeah if you brew in the same area that would be good + larger dump bottle.
BTW, I find the Saurus is piss easy to clean, compared to conventional buckets.
 
A few handy upgrades for Version 2


larger butterfly valve, either 2 or 3 inch. The current 1 inch is less with the octagonal fitting and jams up with hops.

ability to have thermowell on side with pressure rating.

bigger yeast bottles either 750ml or 1lt
 
I like the idea of a 1L yeast bottle too. Would need to be short and fat to fit.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top