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RobjF

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Hey guys im new to this forum and just want to get a bit of advice on building a HTL.

Im going to convert a CUB keg and im planning on putting an electric element into it. Probably The Stainless 2200w from Craftbrewer. I want to run this through a digital Therostat so I can just put in my strike or sparge temp and leave it to get on. I have found some equipment in the US made by Johnson controls that would do it but cant seem to find anything like it here in Aus. Also I have seen a level gauge and temp dial in one for sale in the US but in Fahrenheit but cant find anything the same in austalia, though it would be easier just to drill the one hole and keep it all contained and a bit neater. Any thoughts?

Cheers
 

Yob

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Hey guys im new to this forum and just want to get a bit of advice on building a HTL.

Im going to convert a CUB keg and im planning on putting an electric element into it. Probably The Stainless 2200w from Craftbrewer. I want to run this through a digital Therostat so I can just put in my strike or sparge temp and leave it to get on. I have found some equipment in the US made by Johnson controls that would do it but cant seem to find anything like it here in Aus. Also I have seen a level gauge and temp dial in one for sale in the US but in Fahrenheit but cant find anything the same in austalia, though it would be easier just to drill the one hole and keep it all contained and a bit neater. Any thoughts?

Cheers
Firstly, welcome aboard.

STC 1000 Temp Controller have a search on EBAY I run 5 of these and love em!! (3 fridges and HLT / HEX)

1.JPG

This is my rig.

For drilling the holes get yourself a Carbide tungstan Hole saw (the more teeth the better)

Your setup will be limited only to your imagination mate and really depends on what you are going for... 1v, 2v, 3v or 4v... HERMS, RIMS... depends really on what you are after.

Yob
 

QldKev

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Go the stc-1000 controller

For the element read this about those 2200w elements, I'm not risking if it's fixed yet. Then have a look at these ones, otherwise for a HLT I would consider a normal kettle element. Have a search on here about the kettle elements using the google search option above. Enjoy your build


QldKev
 

christmas

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If you're using a thermostat for temp control, do you really need the dial thermometer as well?

I have both in mine, and they often display two different temperatures during heating which is annoying. I'd rather have just the thermostat and pretend that it's a uniform temperature throughout.
 

RobjF

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Thanks guys for all the really good feed back and advice. Those temp controlers ( stc -1000) seem really cheap but how hard are they to wire up? I could use one for my brew fridge as well at that price. With regards to the elements, it seems a lot of people have had problems with the stainless ones from brewcraft. The 3k u shaped ones the QldKev pointed out seem good but again how much work is involed in wireing and do you have to add a cover to the outside of the keg to cover the terminals. There are some round copper elemts that Grain and grape sell Does anyone know how they hold up.

Im just startting to expand my extract brew kit to be able in the future to have a crack at all grain. Due to work ive not been able to put a brew on in over a year and now that has change a little im determind to get back to it and push on to all grain. I have a keg kettle and want to make a Keg HLT and than make a mash tun from a cooler for a start. At the moment im just using a small esky and a sparg bucket with false bottom. My big problem is cooling larger boils down so ive just grabbed some copper today and started making a wort ciller to run of my shed tank and pump as the water is always really cold. Just want to make a simple system and make some nice beer.
Thanks again guys for all the advice will keep reading all the links and work somthing out.
 

QldKev

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Thanks guys for all the really good feed back and advice. Those temp controlers ( stc -1000) seem really cheap but how hard are they to wire up? I could use one for my brew fridge as well at that price. With regards to the elements, it seems a lot of people have had problems with the stainless ones from brewcraft. The 3k u shaped ones the QldKev pointed out seem good but again how much work is involed in wireing and do you have to add a cover to the outside of the keg to cover the terminals. There are some round copper elemts that Grain and grape sell Does anyone know how they hold up.

Im just startting to expand my extract brew kit to be able in the future to have a crack at all grain. Due to work ive not been able to put a brew on in over a year and now that has change a little im determind to get back to it and push on to all grain. I have a keg kettle and want to make a Keg HLT and than make a mash tun from a cooler for a start. At the moment im just using a small esky and a sparg bucket with false bottom. My big problem is cooling larger boils down so ive just grabbed some copper today and started making a wort ciller to run of my shed tank and pump as the water is always really cold. Just want to make a simple system and make some nice beer.
Thanks again guys for all the advice will keep reading all the links and work somthing out.

There are plenty of threads on here how to wire the stc-1000 up, have a search and get an electrician mate to do the final hook up. The u-shape elements are fairly easy to hook up as per here. Same thing fit it all up and get your sparky mate to do the final checks. You mentioned the 3k element, I assume you mean 3kw. If so they can not be run from a normal GPO (power point). A standard GPO is max 10amp, so 240x X 10amp = 2400w = 2.4kw. But if you are hooking it into a 15amp GPO then all is ok, as 240 X 15 = 3600, = 3.6kw. Once you get a stc-1000 running you will find you will most likely end up with a couple. One for the fermenting fridge etc.
 

glenwal

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A standard GPO is max 10amp, so 240x X 10amp = 2400w = 2.4kw. But if you are hooking it into a 15amp GPO then all is ok, as 240 X 15 = 3600, = 3.6kw. Once you get a stc-1000 running you will find you will most likely end up with a couple. One for the fermenting fridge etc.
Also, if you are running the element off an STC-1000, you'll need to connect bigger (higher current) relays to run anything over 2400w as the STC is only rated to 10A aswell.

(Although i'd probably do that even for a 2400W element as i'm not sure i'd trust the QA control in Hong Kong for something thats going to have a constant 10A load being pulled through it - but thats just me, plenty of people will probably jump in now and say they have done it without problems)
 

RobjF

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How big an element would you guys recomend for a HLT?
 

QldKev

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How big an element would you guys recomend for a HLT?
For a single batch system, I think anywhere from a 1850w kettle element to a 2400w element would work great.

On my website under homebrew/calculators there is a water heating calc, work out your volumes and you can plug in different elements and see how it effects the times.

QldKev
 

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