Going back to do an extract -HELP PLEASE

[SJW]

Hi there. My Braumeister has blown an element, so while I'm waiting for a new one, Ross , I thought I would give an extract a go. Its been 15 years since I did an extract an I have a question.
As I still have the hops from the brew I was doing when the BM blew up I just bought 2 x 1.5 Kg tins of Coopers Pale Malt Extract. So I plan on boiling one tin with about 5 litres of water and doing my hop additions in that. Then adding the rest of the water and malt ect and fermenting.
Question. As I ferment in a S/S flat bottom fermenter can I just do the boil, top up and ferment in the same vessel as there should be no hot or cold break? Would be easier than transferring to a plastic fermenter.


Steve

 

[Killer Brew]

Hi there. My Braumeister has blown an element, so while I'm waiting for a new one, Ross , I thought I would give an extract a go. Its been 15 years since I did an extract an I have a question.
As I still have the hops from the brew I was doing when the BM blew up I just bought 2 x 1.5 Kg tins of Coopers Pale Malt Extract. So I plan on boiling one tin with about 5 litres of water and doing my hop additions in that. Then adding the rest of the water and malt ect and fermenting.
Question. As I ferment in a S/S flat bottom fermenter can I just do the boil, top up and ferment in the same vessel as there should be no hot or cold break? Would be easier than transferring to a plastic fermenter.


Steve

I see no reason why you couldn't

 

[Rocker1986]

I guess so..

But I wouldn't use a whole tin of extract in only 5 litres of water for a hop boil. 600ish grams, or about a third of a tin will give you a boil gravity around the 1040 mark, which is considered best for utilisation. Though I do remember reading somewhere recently that this is being re-tested or reviewed or something...

 

[Matplat]

For the record, you will definitely get hot and cold break.

If you are only going to do a 5l boil, I would only use about half a tin otherwise your boil gravity will be too high and hop usage will be poor.

Considering the size of your SS vessel, I would do a larger boil than 5l, more like 9-10.

Cheers, Matt

 

[Matplat]

Rocker beat me to it!

 

[SJW]

Thanks lads

 

[pcmfisher]

For the record, you will definitely get hot and cold break.

If you are only going to do a 5l boil, I would only use about half a tin otherwise your boil gravity will be too high and hop usage will be poor.

Considering the size of your SS vessel, I would do a larger boil than 5l, more like 9-10.

Cheers, Matt

I don't as far as I can tell.

If so, what happens to the hot and cold break in the tin you don't boil?

 

[Matplat]

Whatever it is, I have found you end up with non-yeast trub at the bottom of the FV, which I have assumed to be 'break material' even without doing a boil.

 

[Yob]

5 liters will be fine, less to chill back down is better.

Dont worry about any break material, it was 'mostly' removed when the extract was made the first time, besides, youll be drinking it too fast for it to stale due to break material I assume B)

 

[Nizmoose]

For the record, you will definitely get hot and cold break.

If you are only going to do a 5l boil, I would only use about half a tin otherwise your boil gravity will be too high and hop usage will be poor.

Considering the size of your SS vessel, I would do a larger boil than 5l, more like 9-10.

Cheers, Matt

I always thought that hot break was both created and removed during the process of actually making extract? As far as I'm aware they do a boil, chill, leave all the break behind and then remove some or all of the water to produce DME/LME.


EDIT: woops missed yob saying the same thing above

 

[mckenry]

Hi there. My Braumeister has blown an element, so while I'm waiting for a new one, Ross , I thought I would give an extract a go. Its been 15 years since I did an extract an I have a question.
As I still have the hops from the brew I was doing when the BM blew up I just bought 2 x 1.5 Kg tins of Coopers Pale Malt Extract. So I plan on boiling one tin with about 5 litres of water and doing my hop additions in that. Then adding the rest of the water and malt ect and fermenting.
Question. As I ferment in a S/S flat bottom fermenter can I just do the boil, top up and ferment in the same vessel as there should be no hot or cold break? Would be easier than transferring to a plastic fermenter.


Steve

Hey Steve,
You'll never look back. Now you know how to ferment properly, handle yeast properly etc etc, you'll make an awesome beer. You wont even know it was made from a tin.
BTW - I'll give you a couple-a-hungie for a 'second hand, as-is, needs some TLC braumeister'

 

[SJW]

Hey Steve,
You'll never look back. Now you know how to ferment properly, handle yeast properly etc etc, you'll make an awesome beer. You wont even know it was made from a tin.
BTW - I'll give you a couple-a-hungie for a 'second hand, as-is, needs some TLC braumeister'

Ha ha, I bet. Anyway the new element turned up Friday and it's in and working fine. So lucky I will only have done the one extract brew. For the record I boiled 10 litres and there was break material. But as I boiled in my s/s fermenter I just cooled and pitched the yeast. **** the OG was high. 3 kgs of LME and 1 kg of sugar for 22 litres was up over 1.060. Anyway there is heaps of hops so it should be fine.
Thanks to Ross (Craftbrewer) for getting me the element.

Steve

 

[manticle]

Remember malt extract can stratify when not mixed properly, giving a falsely high reading.

 

[bconnery]

Non entirely on topic but I put 1kg of dry malt in a beer recently and I had forgotten what a bitch it can be.
Even though it was DME that dissolved quite well and didn't clump as easily as some of the bad stuff I had back in the days of extract brewing it still was hard to deal with after many years of just mixing grain with water...

 

[SJW]

Down 30 points to1.030 and tastes ok. Heaps of hop bitterness and flavour. Can't wait to fire the BM up this week. Love the control I have with all grain brewing