Dry Hopping - when, how much and how?

[Rod]

Sounds like you have it spot on to me, mate.

Definitely use an 'aroma' hop - the US C hops are great on the nose - Cascade Centennial etc.. plenty of them - but yeah, you have it spot on.

So, 1-2g/L should see you in good aroma. I put mine in a coffee mug and boil the kettle [Coffee making type, not your Brew Kettle] Cover/fill the hops in the mug with boiling water. 2 reasons, to activate the hops and sanitise them a little, any risk is a risk. Then just dump the green slurry in the FV!! I usually wait 4 days into ferment, sometimes just dump then in when tipping the cube... You will find 'your' way to do it.

Yes, throw them in the FV, they will drop out and if you are cold conditioning/Crash chilling, even better.

Is your IPA have another 4 days in FV? I would allow about 4 days for the hops to drop, in particular, the yeast activity may be slower and the hops have no guidance to drop with their new found friends.....

In short - dump 'em now - do a D Rest - for 3 days - Crash chill for at least 3 - sorted.

5c. [Metric and all]

I had been dry hopping , literally for a number of years

enjoyed the benefits


however the last dry hop , adding hops in a tea bag , without steeping in boiling water (recommended method in the 1st batch years ago and continued that way)

infection , the only one in my career

so no more

had thought many times I need to go back

will do so now

 

[Gigantorus]

OK have biten the bullet and decided on a 3-way hop infusion to a pale ale. So laid down a new pale ale yesterday that I tweaked.

Used a can of Coopers Australian Pale Ale, 1kg of Coopers BE2.

I steeped 20grams of galaxy, centennial and amarillo pellets and added the liquid only to the APA can and BE2 and then topped up to 21 litre mark.

Will dry-hop with the other 30grams of each for the last 4 days of a 14 day stay in the fermenter. Looking forward to a nice hoppy pale ale. Only time will tell if the hops were too much, just right or not enough.

Cheers,

Pete

 

[Black n Tan]

It is well known that yeast can strip hop flavour and at the recent ANHC dry hopping techniques were discussed including reducing yeast load prior to dry hopping. So I recently made an IPA and decided to cold crash to floc the yeast before dry hopping (5g/L @ 3 C for 6 days, agitated daily for first 4 days). I have too say the result was majorly disappointing with very muted hop flavours and aroma. So for my latest APA I decided to dry hop at fermentation temps. Once fermentation was complete I pressurised by conical at 4psi (mentioned at ANHC to floc yeast). After 24 hours I added my dry hops and held for 2 days (4g/L @ 20C for 2days, stirred on second day) before cold crashing for 4 days. The flavour and aroma is just fabulous. The hops tend to float at fermentation temps and then drop during cold crashing, and this combination seems to maximise the extraction of the hop oils.

 

[Dan Pratt]

It is well known that yeast can strip hop flavour and at the recent ANHC dry hopping techniques were discussed including reducing yeast load prior to dry hopping. So I recently made an IPA and decided to cold crash to floc the yeast before dry hopping (5g/L @ 3 C for 6 days, agitated daily for first 4 days). I have too say the result was majorly disappointing with very muted hop flavours and aroma. So for my latest APA I decided to dry hop at fermentation temps. Once fermentation was complete I pressurised by conical at 4psi (mentioned at ANHC to floc yeast). After 24 hours I added my dry hops and held for 2 days (4g/L @ 20C for 2days, stirred on second day) before cold crashing for 4 days. The flavour and aroma is just fabulous. The hops tend to float at fermentation temps and then drop during cold crashing, and this combination seems to maximise the extraction of the hop oils.

I have found this too BnT, cold temps dont really get a good level of oil extraction, higher temps eg fermentation temp sure does.

When the yeast hasnt flocced out I cold crash the day before to drop all the yeast out and then let it raise back up to ferment temp to start the dry hop, if its already clear at the surface I throw them in and will dry hop for at least 7days, sometimes even 10days with amount ranging from 2 to 6g/L and depending on the hops.

 

[manticle]

Funny, I prefer dry hopping in cold for 2-3 days but then I'm much less of a hophead than others and I prefer a more subtle effect.

 

[slcmorro]

I always dry hop cold. Although having said that, I'm known to dry hop with anything up to 100 gms plus in a 20L batch.

 

[Dan Pratt]

56g warm will get you double the hop aroma that you get from100. I have tried cold and warm really does the extraction, even tried double layering by dry hopping warm for 5days and then cold for 5days.....felt as though t he cold dry hop was a waste.

 

[indica86]

I chucked 60g dry hop in a pale @ 5°c for my last beer.
Sure is aromatic. More so than any other beer I have dry hopped in the past.

 

[Dan Pratt]

I chucked 60g dry hop in a pale @ 5°c for my last beer.
Sure is aromatic. More so than any other beer I have dry hopped in the past.

what was the hop?

 

[indica86]

20g each of Cascade, Centennial and Citra

 

[Pogierob]

Just researching dry hopping and came across this.

http://ir.library.oregonstate.edu/xmlui/bitstream/handle/1957/34093/Wolfe_thesis.pdf


To be honest I haven't read through it, but I intend to.. thought it appeared interesting enough to share..

 

[Yob]

there goes my next week of train trips..

thank you very much sir, good day

 

[bulp]

Just researching dry hopping and came across this.

http://ir.library.oregonstate.edu/xmlui/bitstream/handle/1957/34093/Wolfe_thesis.pdf


To be honest I haven't read through it, but I intend to.. thought it appeared interesting enough to share..

Thanks for that looks like interesting reading,

Myself my normal dry hop procedure is as follows

- Wait until 3 days of constant FG
- Crash chill from 20-22 to 17c and hold for 24hrs
- Dry hop for 3-5 days dependant on recipe (pellets) rouse with a gentle stir every couple of days (no splashing)
-Crash chill to 1 c for 7 days and keg
- And i forgot if i'm dry hopping for 5 days i'll add 75% of the dry hop at the start and 3 days in add the rest, i feel this gives the dry hop more character and depth

Always get massive hop aroma and no grassiness and have never noticed any oxidised flavours, i think as home brewers we don't keep our IPA's/pale ales in the keg/bottle long enough to notice any detrimental effects of oxidation.

I also use time to clarify my beers, i don't filter or use any gelatine which in my experience does tend to strip some level of hop flavour/aroma, conversely the clearer i can get my ipa's pale ales the better the hop flavour/aroma shine through, so i take care to keep as much trub out of my fermenter and keg as possible.

I've tried both dry hopping in primary and secondary and haven't noticed any difference nor do i reuse my yeast from these hop bombs, and usually dry hop at 5/10g per L dependant on the beer

If it isn't hoppy enough "add more hops" :icon_drool2:

 

[Pogierob]

I"m doing a recipe which I brewed about a month ago, it's in the keg and a bloody tasty easy drinker.

all cascade.

I'm doing the same brew today but with Simcoe

I was wondering if I needed to drop the simcoe dry hop from 20g due to the difference in AA's.

so far everything suggests the AA's isn't what we are after from the dry hop so I figure I'll stick to the 20g

 

[fletcher]

1. at the end of fermentation
2. as much as you like
3. throw them in as is

 

[wide eyed and legless]

Here is a simple explanation about dry hopping for the beginner.

http://labeerfan.com/2014/03/12/dry-hopping/

 

[kaiserben]

I'm gonna dry hop with 60 grams of hops (20 Amarillo, 20 Simcoe, 20 Willamette) in 22 Litres of what was supposed to be IPA (although my OG was 1.042, but that's another story). I've decided I'm comfortable with adding these hops in (pre-boiled and no-rinse sanitised) hop socks at some stage 3-7 days before transferring to bottling bucket. (don't have equipment to crash chill).

What I want to know is: Should I whack all 60g in at, say, 5 days before bottling day? Or should I space a couple of additions out across different days? (and if so, should I do 2 x 30g additions - ie 10g each of the 3 hops, then 10g of each again a couple of days later - or do limit it to 1 type of hop at each addition - ie dump all 20g of one hop on one day, then all 20g of another on another day, and then all 20g on yet another day?

I'm trying to get my head around what effect adding different dry hops on different days will have, or whether it's worth the effort of worrying about so fine a detail that perhaps only barely registers as different for most drinkers?

 

[Dan Pratt]

I'm gonna dry hop with 60 grams of hops (20 Amarillo, 20 Simcoe, 20 Willamette) in 22 Litres of what was supposed to be IPA (although my OG was 1.042, but that's another story). I've decided I'm comfortable with adding these hops in (pre-boiled and no-rinse sanitised) hop socks at some stage 3-7 days before transferring to bottling bucket. (don't have equipment to crash chill).

What I want to know is: Should I whack all 60g in at, say, 5 days before bottling day? Or should I space a couple of additions out across different days? (and if so, should I do 2 x 30g additions - ie 10g each of the 3 hops, then 10g of each again a couple of days later - or do limit it to 1 type of hop at each addition - ie dump all 20g of one hop on one day, then all 20g of another on another day, and then all 20g on yet another day?

I'm trying to get my head around what effect adding different dry hops on different days will have, or whether it's worth the effort of worrying about so fine a detail that perhaps only barely registers as different for most drinkers?

Add all 60g in a hop sock is the go, its only 3g/L See what you get from 5days at approx 20c and remove them or even leave them in during bottling. I have double hopped some beers that have been 5days and then more for another 3days and the noticable level of aromatics was increased but not 10 fold so try the full 60g this batch and split them on the next one 30g 3days and 30g another 3days.

 

[kaiserben]

Cheers.

My only previous dry-hopping experience was loose pellets in an ESB (and without space/equipment to crash chill there was quite a bit of hop material still in suspension when I bottled it (7 days after dry hopping). So I'm hoping to avoid that happening again. Still waiting for that to condition before tasting).

But this time: tonight I boiled a hop sock (in napisan), then rinsed it in tap water and squeezed out excess water, then immersed it in no-rinse san for a few minutes. I then added 60g hop pellets, tied the sock off with plenty of room for expansion, then chucked it directly into fermenter. The sock dropped without needing anything extra in it to weigh it down. Pretty happy with how simple that process was.

I plan to drain the fermenter (via its tap and some hose) into a bottling bucket on Sunday (so dry hops will have 5 days to do its thing). I will just recover the sock when cleaning out the fermenter afterwards.

Am I on the right track? Or is there something I'm doing that is a major no-no?

 

[Westo]

I am keen to dry hop my next brew

From reading the main points i have found are:
Dry hop for 3-5 days near end of fermentation
Dry hop at a rate of 1gm/litre
If cold conditioning (I am) throw hops into FV
Hop variety should be an aromatic one not bittering
Dry hopping 20gms of cascade into 20lt of IPA thats just about finsihed up the US05 should do the trick?

Am I in the right track?

sorry if this has been said before .... too lazy to read all posts, if you have an IPA 20g for dry hopping is not enough you want to go at least 90g of hops for a single batch 5 - 7 days(7 max)