Drilling Hole In Keg

Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum

Help Support Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

pb unleaded

Well-Known Member
Joined
11/6/03
Messages
304
Reaction score
5
Location
location, location
Hello all,
I am making a new boiler (keg), cut the top off with grinder no problem, but could not drill the hole for the tap. Managed to drill a pilot hole with the smallest bit after ruining 10 others and a hole saw.
Went to Bunnings and the cheapest hole saw was over $20. I wasn't sure whether it would do the job so didn't buy it.
What is the best (cheapest) way to drill a hole in the keg, what do I need to buy?

Also I am installing a $5 garden tap in there with teflon washers so the brass and S/S don't touch.
Any problems with this?
Thanks

arthur
 
I drilled a pilot hole and then grinded it out with about 4 conical grinding bits. if you can imagine little christams trees, that's what a conical grinding bit looks like. it's very loud. takes a long time and alot of muscle but I got there in the end.
 
Arthur ,

use a bi metal hole cutter drill speed 100RPM and a good quality lubricant such as 'Tap it '

take it slowly otherwise if you can lay your hands on a 'Unibit' stepped cutter great for thin steel .

Pumpy :)
 
I drilled a pilot hole then filed it out with a rats tail file to my required size. Didn't take too long at all.
 
I drilled a pilot hole then filed it out with a rats tail file to my required size. Didn't take too long at all.

Duff , get a life it would take you ages !!!!!!!!

pumpy :)
 
the rat tail file doesn't take long - about 20 minutes per hole. a bit fiddly, but cheap and effective. check the website in my sig, it's got the procedure in painful detail.
 
a regular hole saw will do it you just need to take it very slow and use a coolant or lubricant oil ensuring that the hole saw doesnt get hot and have it rotating as slow as you can, if you have access to a drill press and its big enough use it rather than a pistol drill, i have used one hole saw to cut about 15 holes in stainless steel and its still as sharp as it was when i started using the above methods
 
Masking tape in the position where the hole was required with a trace outline for the sizse of the hole.
A small pilot hole, then just stepped up the bit sizes until I got to the biggest.
Then with the half moon file to complete the job. Too easy.

Doc
 
I drilled a pilot hole then filed it out with a rats tail file to my required size. Didn't take too long at all.

Duff , get a life it would take you ages !!!!!!!!

pumpy :)

Pumpy,

You're in Australia now mate, back at the old dart I'd expect a reply like that while sipping on some Twingings, not here while we are raised on a teat of ale :lol:
 
I drilled a pilot hole then filed it out with a rats tail file to my required size. Didn't take too long at all.

Duff , get a life it would take you ages !!!!!!!!

pumpy :)

I have used a step drill for converting 2 kegs, taps and sight glasses and then passed it on to a friend to do their's. It is still sharp and no lubricant was used. $20 from Home Hardware.
 
Masking tape in the position where the hole was required with a trace outline for the sizse of the hole.
A small pilot hole, then just stepped up the bit sizes until I got to the biggest.
Then with the half moon file to complete the job. Too easy.

Doc

Yep that masking tape is a real trick to stop the drill slipping.

But hey Doc you just get your Uncle who is a plumber to do it ;)


pumpy :)
 
I got a friend who's job is stainless fabrication..

He reckons use the cheapy steel hole saws they do the trick nicely..

i used a 65mm hole saw ( the blue ones..dunno brand) on my 2.5mm thick drip tray...

squirted a bit of wd-40/oil.. took it slow..i was through in 30seconds..

Also use a NEW hole saw...

like with grinding disc's any metal particles will cause the stainless to go orange around the edges..

(think its orange...could be green..cant remember..didnt happen to me anyway..)



SQYRE... :)
 
If you :) are welding a spigot in dont get the SS too hot as it makes it difficult to weld

Pumpy
 
OOPS...and forgot another important thing...

DONT let the stainless steel get HOT...it will harden up and make life difficult..

i was taking a few cuts of a stainles bar on the lathe the other night when i didnt notice the coolant wasnt on the job...3 seconds later the end of the cutting tip chewed off..



and for all the fitters out there...i suck on a lathe. :blink:



SQYRE...
 
OOPS...and forgot another important thing...

DONT let the stainless steel get HOT...it will harden up and make life difficult..

i was taking a few cuts of a stainles bar on the lathe the other night when i didnt notice the coolant wasnt on the job...3 seconds later the end of the cutting tip chewed off..



and for all the fitters out there...i suck on a lathe. :blink:



SQYRE...


I just said that sqyre have you been drinking :)


Pumpy :)
 
I just said that sqyre have you been drinking :)


Pumpy :)

Sorry, i think i was typing while you were posting...

:p
 
and YES...

i have been drinking... :chug:



:lol:
 

Latest posts

Back
Top