doesnt taste right
- Thread starter mrsupraboy
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verysupple
Supremely mediocre brewer
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The fact that you didn't feel the need to take gravity readings indicates that you need to do a lot of research and learn a lot about brewing. It might sound harsh, but if commercial breweries make the same beer day in, day out and still take gravity readings (and readings for everything else), then why would an amateur not bother and ignor the wealth of information a simple measurement can yield?
mrsupraboy
Well-Known Member
The yeast was pitched dry and only just bought It from the shop.
And all the people that say that I need to research ur so helpful. Not ...
Can some one share the link about when to do gravity readings and how to check if the yeast was cracked
And all the people that say that I need to research ur so helpful. Not ...
Can some one share the link about when to do gravity readings and how to check if the yeast was cracked
You should take readings at:
Pre boil gravity. Just before your wort comes to the boil, and all fermentables (grain, adjuncts etc) have been added.
Original Gravity (OG). You could take this when transferring to cube (if "no chilling", search this), transferring to fermenter (if chilling) or just before you pitch your yeast.
Throughout fermentation you can take readings. You're looking for your Final Gravity (FG). The point at which there will be no further fermentation, terminal gravity, when your yeast has eaten as much sugars as it's going to eat. Generally speaking, if your gravity readings are stable for a 3-day period, you've probably hit terminal/final gravity (or your ferment has stalled, if you're nowhere near your target FG). Generally speaking, with everything as it should be with your brew, you'd be hoping primary fermentation would be all wrapped up in 5-10 days time.
By knowing your pre boil gravity, you can determine your mash efficiency (did you extract as much sugar from the grain as you were meant to).
By knowing your OG and FG you can determine your alcohol percentage, how successful your ferment was (attenuation), and ultimately the efficiency of all of your processes.
Pre boil gravity. Just before your wort comes to the boil, and all fermentables (grain, adjuncts etc) have been added.
Original Gravity (OG). You could take this when transferring to cube (if "no chilling", search this), transferring to fermenter (if chilling) or just before you pitch your yeast.
Throughout fermentation you can take readings. You're looking for your Final Gravity (FG). The point at which there will be no further fermentation, terminal gravity, when your yeast has eaten as much sugars as it's going to eat. Generally speaking, if your gravity readings are stable for a 3-day period, you've probably hit terminal/final gravity (or your ferment has stalled, if you're nowhere near your target FG). Generally speaking, with everything as it should be with your brew, you'd be hoping primary fermentation would be all wrapped up in 5-10 days time.
By knowing your pre boil gravity, you can determine your mash efficiency (did you extract as much sugar from the grain as you were meant to).
By knowing your OG and FG you can determine your alcohol percentage, how successful your ferment was (attenuation), and ultimately the efficiency of all of your processes.
going down a hill
Beer Cod
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As stated check out http://www.howtobrew.com/
As for the hydrometer link, a good read on the same website. Its just a good read from start to finish.http://www.howtobrew.com/appendices/appendixA.html
As far as telling if your grain was put through a mill, the grain should look like its been cracked open, some of the husk has separated from the grain and there will be some powder that looks like white flour in the bag, that is if its a pale malt. Before you try again, and you should, do a bit of research, it will go a long way.
As for the hydrometer link, a good read on the same website. Its just a good read from start to finish.http://www.howtobrew.com/appendices/appendixA.html
As far as telling if your grain was put through a mill, the grain should look like its been cracked open, some of the husk has separated from the grain and there will be some powder that looks like white flour in the bag, that is if its a pale malt. Before you try again, and you should, do a bit of research, it will go a long way.
carniebrew
Brewvy baby, brewvy!
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Mate if you don't think being pointed to information on how to make beer is helpful, maybe you should've bought a slab of Bluetongue? By the time you **** up a couple of attempts at making it you will have spent more than the cost of just buying it!mrsupraboy said:
Gravity readings: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GTvmYaQq6Mc
mrsupraboy
Well-Known Member
I think all the information is helpful and I try to use all the information to the best I understand but people aren't helpful by telling me I need to read up more and having a go at me instead of maybe posting a link to actually help me or explain to me what need to do.
I'm new to brewing like a lot of people on the forums and there is so much information on here and so many people saying different ways to do things it's hard to understand where to start and what actually needs to be done.
I don't have anyone to show me what to do so all I can do is trial and error. And I bet u would of done the exact same way. I talk to the brew shops and they give me instructions on what to do and they tell me that all brewing is, is trial and error.
I'm new to brewing like a lot of people on the forums and there is so much information on here and so many people saying different ways to do things it's hard to understand where to start and what actually needs to be done.
I don't have anyone to show me what to do so all I can do is trial and error. And I bet u would of done the exact same way. I talk to the brew shops and they give me instructions on what to do and they tell me that all brewing is, is trial and error.
Trial and error is how you hone your craft, but you'd be best served going in with an understanding of the processes required.mrsupraboy said:
If your brew shop can't help you with that - find a new brew shop.
There's also plenty of resources available to you both online, and in print.
Buy yourself this book, 'How to Brew', by John Palmer.
It's pretty much the quintessential book on brewing. Read up on the basics, and you're off and running.
Start with the basics as well mate!!! Simple kits, just so you can get an understanding of the process of making beer, get a few of these under your belt before diving into the deep end. You`ll learn a tun of info from just doing extracts, all of which is a stepping stone into all-grain. There is some good brewing software as well out there to help you formulate your recipes to styles and will give you an insight into how different ingredients effect your beer overall, its also a great way of keeping track of your recipes and notes.
As for your beer youve already made, as the other have said, taste it, measure it with a hydrometer (instructions usually come when you buy them). If it turns out a fail, as Forest said "**** happens".
As for your beer youve already made, as the other have said, taste it, measure it with a hydrometer (instructions usually come when you buy them). If it turns out a fail, as Forest said "**** happens".
mrsupraboy
Well-Known Member
Hey guys to clarify I met up with beer God. He had a taste and said it was a good brew. Just tasting nothing like a blue tongue lager.
Thanks mate appreciate the time of you coming out with ur expertise. He explained some stuff to me to which was an I sight to.
Thanks mate appreciate the time of you coming out with ur expertise. He explained some stuff to me to which was an I sight to.
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