Do Yourself A Favour Brew A Real Beer A German Pilsner !

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I think you will find that's for a 40L batch 4star
Kabooby :)

;) I know that, thats what i calculated it for. 1st off the figures where double that as i only calculated for 20-23L and i was double :blink:
:lol:
I wonder if that addition is correct. Considering i never really jump above 5g for 23L of beer with Gypsum or a max of 7g~Ca for a 23L batch.
 
Tried the Coopers 62 pilsner and really enjoyed it. How much different would a recipe be for that, anyone got any ideas?
 
Like pumpy i am a pom who does not mind a nice lager. Mine have been modified kits and not nice. Could you post some recipes of your best lagers foustar? You seem to be very knowledgable and helpful on this subject.
 
Like pumpy i am a pom who does not mind a nice lager. Mine have been modified kits and not nice. Could you post some recipes of your best lagers foustar? You seem to be very knowledgable and helpful on this subject.

Pumpys is spot on how i'd go about a german lager, see my previous recipe noted in this thread. Zwickel could shed some light on the subject too!

I had never brewed a light lager (or a lager at all) until going all grain. Personally i believe kit lagers are not up to scratch on the malt flavour/aroma side of things. Especially considering the malt aromas are usually non existant and consequently effect the flavour of the malt profile as well. To brew one with kits i would definitly go for doing a partial mash or atleast a big steep of carapils to try and get some of the malty/husky/grain aromas going to bulk up the kit.

If you must go a kit, id be looking at getting a Fresh Wort Kit and some extra LME or DME to sub it out to the correct OG. Water profile is critical to making a german pils or any light lager as the flavours can be delicate and faults stand out like dogs balls!

For a German Pils you NEED gypsum in it, it isn't the same otherwise, you want a drying beer with firm/crisp bitterness. For a Czech you need to keep the water as soft as possible (well atleast the sulfate) for rounded hop profile and malty balanced beer.

The only issue i have with the FWK is you dont know what their water profile was at the time of brewing, i guess the same thing goes for a tin of goo too! Consequently you could go over the top with water additions.

My favourite lager ive brewed was my Munich Helles, im due for another soon. Adapted form the Brewing Classic Styles recipe. Next time i will up the CaCl to help push the malt profile a little more and drop the chalk i added to the boil, its simply not needed.

For a Helles I'd go for a water profile with: Ca 100ppm~, Cl 150ppm~, SO4: 50ppm~ and everything else low. Here it is anyway.

Cheers! :icon_cheers:


Helles
Munich Helles

Type: All Grain
Date: 14/04/2009
Batch Size: 23.00 L
Brewer: Braden
Boil Size: 30.90 L
Boil Time: 60 min
Brewhouse Efficiency: 68.0

Ingredients
Amount Item Type % or IBU
5.00 kg Pilsner (Weyermann) (1.7 SRM) Grain 92.6 %
0.30 kg Munich I (Weyermann) (7.1 SRM) Grain 5.6 %
0.10 kg Melanoidin (Weyermann) (30.0 SRM) Grain 1.9 %
35.00 gm Hallertauer [4.80%] (60 min) (First Wort Hop) Hops 20.7 IBU
0.50 tsp Gypsum (Calcium Sulfate) (Mash 60.0 min) Misc
1.00 tsp Calcium Chloride (Mash 60.0 min) Misc
2.00 tsp Chalk (Mash 60.0 min) Misc
1 Pkgs Munich Lager (Wyeast Labs #2308) Yeast-Lager

Beer Profile
Est Original Gravity: 1.050 SG
Est Final Gravity: 1.012 SG
Estimated Alcohol by Vol: 5.0 %
Bitterness: 20.7 IBU
Est Color: 4.5 SRM

Mash Profile
Name Description Step Temp Step Time
Mash In Add 15.12 L of water at 71.9 C 66.0 C 60 min
Mash Out Add 9.00 L of water at 93.9 C 75.6 C 10 min
 
Tried the Coopers 62 pilsner and really enjoyed it. How much different would a recipe be for that, anyone got any ideas?
I was a big fan of the Tooheys Pils in my non brewing days. A step above the Extra Dry that I had got sick of.
Have you tried a Pilsner Urquell or any of the czech pilsners, Lespaul? (great name BTW)
Have another 62, then try an Urquell.
Cheers
Pete
 
;) I know that, thats what i calculated it for. 1st off the figures where double that as i only calculated for 20-23L and i was double :blink:
:lol:
I wonder if that addition is correct. Considering i never really jump above 5g for 23L of beer with Gypsum or a max of 7g~Ca for a 23L batch.

I use the same water as Pumpy. We only have 14ppm of calcium in our water. 20g of gypsum only increases to 130ppm.

Kabooby :)
 
Have you tried a Pilsner Urquell or any of the czech pilsners, Lespaul? (great name BTW)
Have another 62, then try an Urquell.
Cheers
Pete
I agree. There are far better stand out Pilsners than 62. Not that 62 is a 'bad beer', just the typical thing that happens to your taste buds once you start homebrewing.
 
I use the same water as Pumpy. We only have 14ppm of calcium in our water. 20g of gypsum only increases to 130ppm.

Kabooby :)

Thats what i noted in my post ;) My concern was the Sulfate at 350ppm!
 
Same reason I've never gone back for another case of Tooheys Pils; no more Saaz! Plus they dropped the alcohol content, the filty buggers.

- boingk
 
Thats what i noted in my post ;) My concern was the Sulfate at 350ppm!

I should read the thread properly shouldn't I, instead of skimming over it.

Sulfate levels are 5ppm before additions and about 230ppm after 20g of gypsum.

Kabooby :icon_cheers:
 
I am gearing up for a Pils, want to lager it till Xmas and have it at the family BBQ.

Going to try a variety of new things to get it extra clean.
 
I must admit that it is a Royal PITA to get brew a good AG Pilsner.
Occasionally I have managed to produce great lagers but that real pils profile, not yet.

Maybe next time.
 
I should read the thread properly shouldn't I, instead of skimming over it.
Sulfate levels are 5ppm before additions and about 230ppm after 20g of gypsum.
Kabooby :icon_cheers:

Not according to the Nomograph on the BABBS website (from memory the results on this are identical to beersmith) :ph34r:

Oh, and its 21.13g ;)
 
like? not letting bara near it when its brewing? carn help us out with tips and tricks

Water additions, CaCl and SO4(if brewing a german) help push the maltiness, maybe some melanoiden if you cannot be arsed with a decoction. Big pitching rate, racking from break material to secondary after growth stage, stable LOW temperature ferment (max 10 deg), BIG crash chill post ferment 2-3 days, filtration and a LONG COLD lager storage period in keg. 6 weeks minimum?!?!

That sounds like a decent regime.
 
Water additions, CaCl and SO4(if brewing a german) help push the maltiness, maybe some melanoiden if you cannot be arsed with a decoction. Big pitching rate, racking from break material to secondary after growth stage, stable LOW temperature ferment (max 10 deg), BIG crash chill post ferment 2-3 days, filtration and a LONG COLD lager storage period in keg. 6 weeks minimum?!?!

That sounds like a decent regime.

Chatting with another brewer and might even try a -1c crash chill prior pitching and then racking off all trub (troob ha ha) prior to aerating and pitching.

Though trub is considered required for yeast nutrients, addition of yeast food should alleviate that and remove some of the components that contribute to flavours not needed in a good pils.
 
I brewed up a bohemian pils as one of my first AG attempts. Currently sitting in the cube waiting for some fermenter time, but I'm hopeful it will be a nice drop, not expecting it to be a fantastic drop though. Will be using Wyeast 2278 Czech pils for it though.
 
I must admit that it is a Royal PITA to get brew a good AG Pilsner.
Occasionally I have managed to produce great lagers but that real pils profile, not yet.

Maybe next time.


Matti you have to do the 50 C protein rest it really makes a difference

Pumpy
 
I brewed up a bohemian pils as one of my first AG attempts. Currently sitting in the cube waiting for some fermenter time, but I'm hopeful it will be a nice drop, not expecting it to be a fantastic drop though. Will be using Wyeast 2278 Czech pils for it though.


I have an AG smash pilsner/saaz with wyeast 2278 that's just been bottled. Single infusion mash (all I can really do at the moment), tasted like bread and grass out of the fermenter but beer changes so much with conditioning (current amazingly beautiful red ale tasted like vegemite just prior to bottling). It's destined for a case swap but I have a reserve in case she doesn't work out.
 
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