Do I Rush My Sparging ?

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Pumpy

Pumpy's Brewery.
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The sparging really flows well these days in my mashtun,

How many litres per min should I be aiming for

i get about 70% effieciency others seem to get better perhaps I am rushing it .

Dont tell me get a refractometer !!! :huh:



Pumpy
 
Of the 2 AG i've done I got around 72% running at around a litre/min using ss braid as manifld. I think a little slower will give me more.
Ps I need a refractometer as I just found out my hyrdometer is 4 points low when checking with water..

matt
 
rule no 1 get a refractomter is a must
2..... consistancy is what maters not eff i/e 70 % each brew
3 batch sparge
 
Stuster said:
Batch sparge Pumpy. :ph34r:
[post="115046"][/post]​
I Second that. Makes for a much easier brew day.


vl.
 
Pumpy said:
The sparging really flows well these days in my mashtun,

How many litres per min should I be aiming for

i get about 70% effieciency others seem to get better perhaps I am rushing it .

Dont tell me get a refractometer !!! :huh:



Pumpy
[post="115040"][/post]​

Pumpy,

Nice job mate. I've only just put down my 5th AG and after dropping down both my mash & sparge runoffs to half a litre\minute from one litre\minute (and running 2 sparges to get my final pre-boil volume), find that I've added a couple of percentage points to my pre-boil gravity. Every little helps.Here's a piccy of the guts of my mash tun. Great minds think alike? :) I've still got no refractometer --- yet.

:beer:
 
Batch Sparge... :super:

I usually let it sit for 5 Mins every batch, and give it a good stir at the start, although you will have to re-circulate to clear it out before draing into the kettle

Are you using fresh cracked grain or getting it cracked from the shop...?
 
I will recommend batch sparging too. Good extraction, and highly recommended when fly sparging proves inefficient. See Palmer as a reference.

Seth :p
 
Matt , I better check my hydrometer too

Jazman , will have to ask for a refractometer for Christmas

Stuster ,Vlaby ,Stu, Seth , Yep Batch sparge seems the go

Tidalpete I like your manifold better because it runs towards the ballvalve I could not work out how to do that .

Stu I crack my own grain but I think I should leave it five mins when I have a batch,

Do you stir your mash or just leave it ??????

Pumpy
 
Batch sparging is more popular (well at least with the web crowd) and efficiency isn't an issue. Also see http://brewiki.org/BatchSparge

sparge-all.png
 
TidalPete said:
Pumpy said:
The sparging really flows well these days in my mashtun,

How many litres per min should I be aiming for

i get about 70% effieciency others seem to get better perhaps I am rushing it .

Dont tell me get a refractometer !!! :huh:



Pumpy
[post="115040"][/post]​

Pumpy,

Nice job mate. I've only just put down my 5th AG and after dropping down both my mash & sparge runoffs to half a litre\minute from one litre\minute (and running 2 sparges to get my final pre-boil volume), find that I've added a couple of percentage points to my pre-boil gravity. Every little helps.Here's a piccy of the guts of my mash tun. Great minds think alike? :) I've still got no refractometer --- yet.

:beer:
[post="115050"][/post]​
Tidalpete,
I like the look of your mash tun setup. Where do you get one of those square esky type coolers. Looks real good!

vl.
 
vlbaby said:
like the look of your mash tun setup. Where do you get one of those square esky type coolers. Looks real good!

vl.
[post="115060"][/post]​

Just a square 10 gallon coleman VL. It's well suited for Palmer's square manifold as you can see. Got it from a camping store locally when I found it hard to get a round cooler for a reasonable price. Cost around $100. Loses around 2 deg c over a 90 mash.

:beer:
 
How precious is your time?

Am I the only one who thinks batch sparging is harder, or at least a lot more labour intensive??

I have a large enough kettle and mash tun to do a single fly sparge. My HLT is thermostatically controlled (ie it is an urn with a plug on it :p ). So I can have a fair degree of confidence in the consistency of the sparge temp.

From experience with my system I am pretty good at setting the inflow and outflow rates (more through trial and error than scrupulous clock watching ;) ).

Mind you, I tend to be more concerned that the sparge level stays above the top of the grain bed than making sure inflow and outflow are exactly calibrated. There are lots of things to be anal about in brewing, but I have found it to be a very forgiving pastime also.

When sparge time comes I set the taps running and can pretty much go and do something more interesting for a while.

Most of the brewers I know batch sparge. They spend a lot of time recirculating, sparging. Bringing sparge atter to temp, adding sparge water, mixing, recirculating, sparging. Bringing sparge water to temp, adding sparge water, mixing, recirculating, sparging. and so on, for however many sparges it takes.

And, they tell me it is a lot less less work and more time efficient than a fly sparge.

Being more time efficient, I may be prepared to agree with. But if I have devoted enough time to have an all grain brew day, an extra few minutes, maybe even a half hour or more, with my feet up reading a book about beer or brewing, is not going to kill me.

As for less work, I cannot see this argument for the life of me. You swap one process for multiple ones.

Mind you there is another reason I don't batch sparge. After hand cranking my grain in a porkert/corona mill, I am too knackered to contemplate all the labour intensive recirculation and mash stirring batch sparging entails :p

awrabest, stu
 
Seconded stu,

Fly sparging Pumpy is very easy and it sounds like what you are doing now. It's basically set and forget once you amend your in and outflow rates. I set mine quite slow where the outflow from the mashtun is just a trickle. This way I get efficiencies at preboil of between 80 - 85%, so when you pay for your grain you might as well get the most from it. A typical sparge for me to fill 28L preboil takes around an hour, so I'm half the speed you are running off.

It may take a little longer but you make it up with the 'no chill' method anyway :)

And buy a refractometer, you won't regret it.

Cheers.
 
I think this is a good question. I batch sparge, and am conscious of scotty ( IBU member,guru,fountain of knowledge ) and his saying about slow runoff's are the best, and floating the mash. However, all attempts at this in my esky dont work too well. I happily get about 70% eff by just dumping that valve as fast as i can. Beer is good, no probs, but i will keep trying to get the slow runoff method right. Will have to talk to scotty in more depth.
 
mje1980 said:
I think this is a good question. I batch sparge, and am conscious of scotty ( IBU member,guru,fountain of knowledge ) and his saying about slow runoff's are the best, and floating the mash. However, all attempts at this in my esky dont work too well. I happily get about 70% eff by just dumping that valve as fast as i can. Beer is good, no probs, but i will keep trying to get the slow runoff method right. Will have to talk to scotty in more depth.
[post="115072"][/post]​

mje,

runoff speed has no effect on effiency when batch sparging - just run off at the maximum speed your grain will allow...
Anyone who finds batch sparging harder work than fly sparging must be doing something wrong - it's quick, easy & stress free. On top of that you don't get tannin extraction as in fly sparging... so a slightly lower effiency is a small price to pay in my book.
But, each to their own I guess... :)

cheers Ross
 
I've tried both batch and fly sparging. I started out batch sparging because I believed all of the propaganda about how much easier batch sparging is compared to fly sparging. Then I went and did a brew with GMK at his place (how did that Double Diamond turn out?). After seeing fly sparging in action I had to try it myself. IMHO, fly sparging is heaps easier. Set a slow run off rate and set inflow to keep the sparge water just above the grain and walk away for 30min to an hour. Dead easy. Don't have to recirc 2 or 3 times, don't have to stir as much, don't have to wait beside the tun the whole time. I get a calculated 72% efficiency whichever method I use, I just find fly sparging is much easier.

I don't even have a proper sparge arm. I just lay a piece of aluminium foil with hole poke in it over the mash, lay my hose from the HLT on it and slowly run water onto the alfoil. One day I'll make a proper sparge arm, but the foil does the trick.
 
wee stu said:
Most of the brewers I know batch sparge. They spend a lot of time recirculating, sparging. Bringing sparge atter to temp, adding sparge water, mixing, recirculating, sparging. Bringing sparge water to temp, adding sparge water, mixing, recirculating, sparging. and so on, for however many sparges it takes.
[post="115064"][/post]​
Stu I have seen these debates rage, it seems to come down to what people get used to. The approach to batch sparging I take is pretty lean and mean. I say, if you already have a method you like, don't feel obliged to change, but feel free to try other methods.

FWIW next brew I am going to skip mashout and recirculating. If it doesn't adversely affect my beer then that my process will be even leaner => faster.

PS which one of the things you mention above apart from mixing are not part of fly sparging?
 
Tannin extraction is the bit that worried me the most with fly sparging. We're told not to over sparge the grains ( no lower than 1.020 SG) so as to avoid extracting tannins. But here with fly sparging we have the top layer of grain covered in a 2 inch layer of fresh water ( 1.000 SG) for at least an hour.
If that dont leach tannins from the top layer of grains, I dont know what will.

I'd leave the fly sparging techniques for the mega breweries myself.


:)

vl.
 
My system doesnt allow me to fly sparge.......unless I get a 2nd march pump!!fullside4web1.JPG



recirculation aint a problem either, and I move the mash every 20-30 mins anyway
 
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