Cutting kegs, what's needed, is it dangerous?

[Clutch]

I've got a 50l keg at home that's taking up space, looking for ideas to turn it into something, but I've read/heard that it's a little dangerous to cut/dismantle them?.

A: Is it?
B: What do I need?
C: What should I make with it?

 

[Northside Novice]

It is easy but Ppe should be used (glasses,earplugs,gloves)
Release any pressure first by depressing the ball at the top and remove the dip tube if you want .
A fine tip marker is good for marking out your cuts.
Fine cutting discs work well on an angle grinder .
Step drill bits work well at very slow speeds for any holes needed .

As to what to make ? I mate has a hungi he made from a keg pretty sure there is designs on google some where ,
Mail box maybe ? Small BBQ ?

 

[Charst]

should be able to find videos on youtube on converting a KEG. if CUB type that where i found guides to removing the spear. "convert cub keg". if your confident youve got rid of all the pressure I guess you dont have to remove spear but i preferred to go the safe route.


Ive seen nice Keg Spits, Boilers, bar stools and a mate made an esky but cutting and re attaching the lid with hinges, adding wheels and a handle. looked great rolling into a party with a what looks like a keg on a little trolley.

 

[Dunkelbrau]

I just finished cutting the top (well, extending the cut) out of a 50L keg, and i can say, the most ACCURATE thing i used was the Dremel with the metal cutting blades, just rest the blades on the steel, hit it to 10,000RPM and move it along your line carefully. Took about half an hour to go around the entire top.

I also would recommend a step bit if you are drilling, go for a pilot hole, and make sure you keep it cool, lube the cutting parts with wd-40 or something and then just use water, otherwise you will end up with an oily keg that you have to wash down, i did one with WD and the second with water.

If you arent cutting the lid, i'd just go a grinder with the Steel cutting disc, straight lines are pretty easy, just go slow, and spread the cut wide so you arent in one spot too long.

Wear a mask, goggles, gloves and some clothes that can get dirty, the steel shavings fly everywhere!

I'd do a keg rotisserie!

 

[cpotter]

dremel works a treat to cut the hole
takes a bit longer than an angle grinder
protective glasses are a must

 

[insane_rosenberg]

As for what to make, check out this thread:

http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/68933-beer-keg-pizza-oven-wood-fired/

I've done the cutting for mine, just need to save up for fittings and someone to TIG it together.

 

[Parks]

I also would recommend a step bit if you are drilling, go for a pilot hole, and make sure you keep it cool, lube the cutting parts with wd-40 or something and then just use water, otherwise you will end up with an oily keg that you have to wash down, i did one with WD and the second with water.

I have done several with a step bit and it's a sh*t-tonne of work. Much better off getting the right size hole saw (on the assumption you always need the same size hole). If you think about it, you have to cut heaps more steel with a step bit.

 

[wbosher]

Don't forget to get a file to take the burr off once the cutting's done. Could use a dremel, but I finding it soothing filing by hand.

 

[Parks]

Don't forget to get a file to take the burr off once the cutting's done. Could use a dremel, but I finding it soothing filing by hand.

Flap-wheel on the angle grinder is very soothing for me

 

[tricache]

Easy to do...just gotta have the right tools for the job

 

[wbosher]

Easy to do...just gotta have the right tools for the job

IMAG2132.jpg

You could try these :lol: :lol:

 

[tricache]

Mill was so much more fun...our machinist at work used to work for Rolls Royce Aircraft in the UK so building my keggle was pretty simple :lol:

 

[Northside Novice]

I have done several with a step bit and it's a sh*t-tonne of work. Much better off getting the right size hole saw (on the assumption you always need the same size hole). If you think about it, you have to cut heaps more steel with a step bit.

Really ? I have done a few with cheap Bunnings step drill bit ($12 urwin) and both were piss easy (About 60 sec.)Was using an impact driver rather than a drill , maybe that's the difference ? It's a 20mm bit and threaded pipe fits snug as .

Edit - an impact driver allows for maximum pressure with minimum rotations . It actually cuts in one rotation where as a drill would make 10-20 rotations per step , creating heat and making it a bit of a nightmare . I own impact drivers for my job but they are a great tool to own and are getting really cheap these days . Think Bunnings has an 18v one for really cheap$ and a 3 year warranty ! You can't go wrong with that for home use . Impact drivers are just an electric screw driver but with a **** ton of grunt . They can't take normal drill bits , though you can buy smaller drill bits to suit .
If you want a good bit if kit for home use for life, bag a makita drill and impact 18v lithium ion combo , about $350 I think ?



Bit if a waffle , in the juice , commercial uploads pending

 

[Parks]

Yep. Maybe the kegs I have are a different grade or thickness. I ruined a Bunnings one very quickly and bought an $80 one which wasn't that much easier.

Did you actually have your drill on hammer setting?

 

[Northside Novice]

Impact driver man , think that's the key to it now I think if it .

 

[Camo6]

You can use a regular drill and step bit no worries.Thats all I've used. Pin punch and pilot hole first. Go slow, lots of lube (i've heard sunscreen works well) and try to avoid fast sustained drilling at high speed. Vary the pressure and speed. Treat it like a lover and not some nasty ass ho. Pull ur bit out from time to time and let it cool (it'll go soft if you rush it). Before you know it that hard exterior will submit to ur will. Pretty soon u'll be up to the chuck and thinking you have the meanest bit in town. Afterwards you'll sit back and wonder what else you can punch holes in.
****** it, screw ur kegs, where's me missus.

 

[grimpanda]

Most of it has already been covered by others (i.e: use a thin grinder disc for cutting, low speed, lots of pressure and plenty of lubrication for drilling), but one thing worth mentioning is that if you use any tools that are made of ordinary steel (or tools that have been used to work on ordinary steel, even if the tools themselves are stainless/tungsten carbide) then you will want to passivate the work area when you finish in order to avoid rust spots. This also applies with any process that heats the stainless to a high temperature (i.e: welding). Angle grinders also do this but to a lesser extent, and the affected area is smaller.

What happens is that tiny filaments (invisible to the naked eye) of iron present in ordinary steel get deposited on the stainless and unless removed will rust. The easiest (and safest) way to passivate stainless is to use a green Scotch Brite and thoroughly go over the work area until it's at a dull shine, then rinse with clean water and allow to dry. The protective, invisible chromium oxide layer will naturally re-form in the presence of oxygen, and you'll have nice rust-free stainless thereafter.

 

[Dunkelbrau]

I use a regular drill with a $27 step bit, and I was drilling through the old thick tooheys kegs, and it was like a hot knife through butter BUT you need a pilot hole for the step to be able to grab!

Took about 5 mins to get the pilot hole through the first time, about 2 the second time (knew the speed to use) and then a minute, minute and a half to get the step bit to do its work.