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Keep in mind that the calorie per ml in the low carb beers is virtually identical to regular beers, it is just alcohol molecules not carbohydrates. I am not a dietician but apparently alcohol is metabolised before other sugars in the blood, so there may be a slight net benefit to lower carb...

In last nights brew I had (assuming I read the strips right) a mash pH of 5.4 at room temp, so that is certainly not a problem - this was with 3.75kg Pilsner/2kg Munich for an 18L batch (Helles bock). I did mash a little thicker than usual at 4kg/L instead of the usual full volume mash as the...

Adding dextrose probably won't help the way you want it to. It will make it more alcoholic, but you will still have the same amount of unfermentable stuff from the high mash temps, so you will go back to 1020 just with a higher abv. You could try adding fresh high krausen highly attenuative...

Thanks everyone so far. I have pH strips now to get an indication of my mash pH. I've yet to do a brew with them though. Is the general consensus that 10m into the mash is a good time to wait before testing? I believe that the 5.2-5.6 ideal range is at 20deg, how close to that do you need to...

Short answers, it depends and no, don't add both packs. Long answer, there's a post on here somewhere listing the coopers kit yeasts (on my phone so can't find it atm), other kit brands I can't comment on, but will probably have at least some variation except in the cheapest ones (home brand...

What temp did you ferment at? As far as I remember the euro lager is a true lager year and if you fermented over 14deg you are likely to get off flavours. 'Petrol' sounds a bit like hot alcohol or solventy which could be fusel alcohols from a warm fermentation. If it also gives you a bad...

As mentioned, you should generally put the priming sugar (or drops from the sounds of it) in the bottles first, then filling them - this will reduce the chance of fizzing, splashing, and oxidation. Temperature has a big bearing on the amount of CO2 stored in the beer during the fermentation...

With a few of my mates it's the time. Their K&k in 30m vs my biab 5hrs. They can taste the difference but can't commit the time.

I'm not that sure whether you need a smaller fermenter for an 11l brew. Yes you end up with a larger headspace but at homebrew size I don't think it'll make much difference if you really want to, "smaller" wine carboys would probably be best. However depending on your recipe you might be able to...

3x burners, 3x gas bottles, and 3x grain bags? Seriously though, you mention Herms, did you read the massive stickied herms thread? There should be enough info on there to get you going, even discounting herms you need to work out a false bottom (build or buy), ball valves, and at least one...

Thanks DrSmurto, good advice. I hadn't planned on making changes until I had taken some ph measurements, but at the same time was looking to understand the available options. If for example my water profile suggested that any changes would screw up my beer more than help it then I might have...

Cheers, that makes sense, in glad to have it clarified. It struck me as odd but the wording threw me. My water profile shows manganese not magnesium, so I'll just leave it at 0 I guess.

I've been looking into water profiles as I slowly gain more knowledge in how to improve my brews. At this stage I think my water is 'generally OK' but there are some factors that I think might be contributing to my mash efficiency being a bit low. I full volume BIAB, mill (in thermomix) to a...

A few weeks ago I showed a friend my biab process after he recently started home brewing. I took my gear to his place and we did a Tony's bright ale as he was a big fan of the one I did previously. I no chill, so I left the filled cube with him to cool, and gave him instructions for test...

I also just realised I only catered for an inline thermometer and not a temp controller probe, so thanks for bringing it to my attention

Cheers mb, I'll go back and review that thread again as I've obviously misunderstood that part and thought it was the return exit, not directly at the return.

Just out of curiosity, does the attached setup look like it would work. I would probably look at excluding the hex, and maybe the inline thermometer, to begin with and connecting the pump->herms directly as the pump->return. Some things I don't like: 1/2'' internally threaded pipe on the pump...

Well my ball valve installation was mostly a success, which given my general handyman skills is pretty up there in terms of accomplishments :) I accidentally overtightened the pickup elbow so now I can't loosen it at all, in testing the pickup it wasn't drawing liquid below the valve level even...

Thanks for the advice guys. It does sound like the mill would be number 1 on the list for now. I tend to buy in (moderate) bulk at the moment and mill to order, and if the blender/grinder/thermomix won't hold up to 3v or biab recirc then that looks the best first step.

I BIAB + no-chill in a 37L Aluminium crab cooker with a 3-ring burner. I have been focusing on things like fermentation control and (basic) yeast management so far, but i'm looking at what I can do to improve my brew day. After getting sick of siphoning I have got the parts to add a ball valve...