Search results

@KegLand-com-au tried a 110mmx2.5mm on the lid, seems to be performing well. Are you trialling a thicker oring on the collection jar? If so, what dimensions?

http://www.oringsandmore.com/silicone-o-rings-size-155-price-for-2-pcs/ Should be 2.6mm unless I'm wrong?

Something like this? http://www.oringsandmore.com/silicone-o-rings-size-242-price-for-5-pcs/

I asked this on your Facebook group but received no reply. What about customers outside Australia? Are these a standard part we can source independently?

What do @KegLand-com-au recommend as a heat source for the Fermzilla for those of us outside Australia who can't buy the recommended heat wrap? Will not be using the unit inside a fridge, but will have the insulating jacket.

Any updates on the PET bottle T Piece?

Any update on European/UK distribution? Still after a 29L kegmenter.

Question for folks using triclamp on Sanke - did you trim the ridge off the keg side of your gasket or not? If not, have you had any seal problems?

Any plans to start offering international shipping? I'd be interested in a 29L Kegmenter but the UK distributors MaltMiller aren't intending to stock them as the Keg King ones didn't sell well. Have seen other UK folk not getting replies from KegLand china.

The second 30psi valve is really for final carbonation. I'd be starting fermentation at lower PSI but allowing to reach ~30 for final carbonation. This way I can take my ball lock spunding valve away after my initial lower pressure period and be using that on a Corny potentially.

Here's what I'm thinking, simple and very similar to the OP. 2" TC to 1/2" Male NPT https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32620861308.html 4 way 1/2" Female NPT https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32852068219.html 1/2" to 1/4" NPT bushes x3 https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32861709517.html Corny posts on 1/4"...

I'm UK based so postage and customs charges on that would likely be prohibitive as well. Part of the appeal of the Tee plus corny gas dip tube approach would be that I could attach a Caskwidge or similar floating pickup so dry hops could be added in primary. 2" tri clamp to 1/2" BSP seem to be...

Did anyone build this as outlined in the first post?

I've been toying with the idea of a LODO brew and the guys on their forum have developed a method of deoxygenating water with a tiny amount of bakers yeast & sugar. http://www.lowoxygenbrewing.com/brewing-methods/yeast-deoxygenation-method/ Seems this might be suitable for liquoring back...

I'm not holding the wort at 80C - kettle is submerged in the bath which is filled with cold water. Once it hits 80, it's out of the bath, hops into the kettle and kettle stands at 80C for an hour, then its back into the bath. For the first go I reckon I'll whirlpool for 10 minutes after...

I think I might just roll the dice and go with one 60 minute addition and shove the rest in the cube.

Just to clarify - the steep is part of the recipe as I've done it the last 5 times I've brewed it whilst chilling my wort in the bath. I've experimented with the length of time for the steep at 20 mintues, 45 minutes and 1 hour and found that the 1 hour steep works best. I'm wondering how that...

I'm about to try my first No-Chill brew next week and was wondering what the accepted wisdom is regarding the temperature your wort should be at when it is transferred to the cube. I see a lot of people whirlpool then transfer and this also plays into my usual hop schedule for the first beer...