Search results

You could try this. https://aussiehomebrewer.com/posts/1090441/

I got sick of grain going past the bottom screen so I made my own filter. It works to stop grain getting in the pump but now I've screwed the top screen onto the bottom screen with a split silicon hose around the edge.No grain getting past now only the finer stuff.

Instead of buying a whirlpool arm and extra pump just raise the height of the inlet to the pump.

If you've got a vacuum sealer make up a small bag and add the water,seal and cool in the fridge.When cool enough,open and add the yeast,reseal and leave to rehydrate.You could also add some wort to the bag to make a starter.

Maybe something like this.

Have you got a pop riveter.I just tried it on 4mm line and it works ok. After it's stretched,warm it up then cool it with the rivet still in place.Then place on barb and warm up again to fit.Not too hot or the line collapses.

If both lines are 8mm O/D you could use this one if there's room for them. https://www.kegland.com.au/duotight-8mm-push-in-joiner-double-o-ring.html

How about a keg post adapter that would lift the dip tube say 20-30mm higher off the bottom of the keg if adding hops.It would save cutting some of the dip tube off.

Maybe if it came with an extra white O ring to put on your gas post or when using it as a gas post.

I think the first thing you should do before you mash in is to make sure there's no air trapped in the helix by running some of your strike water into a jug.

This is what we use to wash the dogs with warm water from the kitchen tap. https://www.bunnings.com.au/kinetic-adaptor-aerator-kit_p4920386

Maybe this would work better. It's an adapter to attach pet bottles to a sodastream.If you were to use this you could add your hops to a collapseable drink bottle,connect to adapter and slowly fill bottle. Then squeeze the bottle a few times to transfer the hops or wait till they have...

I added a barb to my reg so I could use it to carb a keg while dispensing from another.It was the only one they had in (Auto 1)and wasn't a perfect fit,so had to run over the thread with a die for a better fit. Or you could use this which wasn't available at the time...

Something like this battery tester with a suitable hydrometer.

I wonder if you could add a T-piece between the disconnect and the adjuster with a collection bottle attached,you could slowly unscrew it to release the pressure and catch the krausen.Or a hose from the T-piece to a carb cap then a bottle.

Wouldn't it stop your gauge working.

2 x a 2 x b 1 x c 1 x d One like this might be useful for a mash tun with either male lead or female socket male/male lead.

Easy to clean, just rinsed it through with hot tap water in laundry.

I had another go with the shower helix and remembered to get a pic this time.The clarity of the final runnings was amazing when compared to the lauter helix. Still hot. Next day. Lauter helix hot. Same grain bill and 100gms hops...