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Just give them 2 weeks anywhere above 18 Celsius, and the will have carbed up.... a bit longer is required for full maturation with some brews... especially if you are after something to have a souring effect. edit after thought

I'm interested in a few kilo's if the price and pick up area are good..

Could be quite tasty, I'd hop it a bit heavier up to 35 IBU to balance the malt, unless you are after a very malty beer.

First keg is on tap at 17.00, second one when the first one runs dry...

I asked the malster at ADM Maltings in Geelong during a tour what the difference was between pils and pale ale malt. According to him the difference was colour, ale malt is slightly darker, and modification. Pale malt is better modified. The differences are that subtle that they nearly can be...

I get recipe suggestions, Witbier is the absolute favourite, along with the kriek. Then it goes.. it tastes too good and it all goes to my hips, don't brew me anymore.. then eventually back to point 1.. could be worse I guess.

In Rochefort the combination of Special B and the yeast strain gives a raisin taste. A bit of oxidation helps as well ;-)

http://www.ubrewit.com.au/process/ They supply the beer in a keg or even cans... nice

Cheers Quantocks, I find Bamforth well worth reading. Thanks for the up.

Would not recommend turbo yeasts, I find they require carbon filtering after "condensing". Looking at craftbrewer i do see they have an Eau de vie yeast. I would like to try that once to see how that pans out.

Do you still have the circlip? If the circlip isn't fitted the spear it will pop out again once it gets pressurised. I drilled 2 small holed in the circlip and used circlip pliers to put it back in as per the article on in the wiki. May literally turn it into a spear, be carefull.

Nitrogen....

Oh well Sinkas, please let us know if an apparition appeared :wacko:

I think you'll find that only 2 row barley is used. Six row barley is mostly used in the US, it yields less sugars in malting than 2 row.

90% pale malt 10% Munich, Bitter up to 40 IBU with NZ B Saaz (Motueka) as aroma hop. You can use Super Alpha as bittering hop too. Should get you close.

I'd get thawing and start to prepare a new starter... The good news? The wort is probably pretty sterile..

a brown colouring agent. Used by brewers to correct colour. Shouldn't alter the flavour if you leave it out.

The white in the Wit is the yeast. Hoegaarden bottle with a very powdery yeast that gives it the cloudy look. I have read that you can also create a protein haze by adding a cup of flour to the mash.. I will try this in my next attempt.

I hand crank my MillMaster, and 5 kilo's took me about 10 minutes on Sunday. I haven't enlarged the hopper yet, and the hopper holds just over half a kilo of malt. If I have help and someone is topping up the malt in the hopper you can do it in half that time and get a bit of a workout. You...

At the bigger breweries they tunnel pasteurize the filled bottles. So any weak bottles burst from the pressure when they are heated up to 65 degrees. Providing you don't damage the bottle you'll be fine.