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Make sure the bottle is standing up though, you don't want liquid CO2 in your reg.

You shouldn't need to re-clean anything. Remember that cleaning and sanitising are two different things. Clean your gear when your done, then sanitise before you use.

mine are normally around the 20l mark (in the 20L jerrys), so they have a few Ls of head space. i normally give them a squeeze when filling (to push out all the air), but this leaves enough space to shake and then ferment in the cube and gives me a full keg at the end.

When you're ready to ferment, open the cube to let air in, seal it back up and give it a shake.

Real STC-1000 for under $19 ;) http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/STC-1000-Digita...=item46033477eb

Not being picky here but haikus are five seven five its time for a beer

Move your "Start AG brewing" to step 5. You don't need a mill to do AG brewing, they just help bring the cost down (because you can bulk buy grain).

Haha, nice ;) Well done on the bulk buy Wolfy. They look like a pretty sweet pump, and the price is definitely right.

Just so you know, some fridges you want to set to max (max cold) and others to min (min temp) so if it doesn't get cold enough, try turning the dial the other way.

or $15.5K at http://morebeerpro.com/view_product/11861/...00L_Braumeister

The IBU calculation might be, but the overall balance of the beer is what is important. That balances comes from everything else that's in the beer, so you can't really just look at one component (like IBUs) in isolation.

no personal experience with them, but don't see why they wouldn't be fine.

Diaphram type valves (like the one you linked) require a minimum line pressure to operate, so are only suitable in applications where the liquid is always under pressure (such as a mains supply). A motorised valve can be partially opened or closed by only applying current for a small period of...

yeah, just meant the bling factor.

Is the rest of your rig stainless? If you have brass fittings elsewhere, then not much point spending the extra on stainless. If you have stainless everwhere else, do you really want to ruin it by cheaping out on the valves?

Correct - see post 53 in this thread. If your using Beersmith, then its "Mash Efficiency" that you want to concern yourself with. Mash efficiency(in BS) = Pre Boil efficiency= Post Boil efficiency= efficiency into Kettle = Brewhouse efficiency(in BM) Brewhouse efficiency(in BS) =...

That's the thing though, i think we both agreed on what should be measured, but different meanings for the same term got in the way of determining what was actually being measured. It just sucks that the two most popular pieces of software have very different meanings for the same measurement.

Definately different to Beersmith then. i just tested it in BS and its calcs Pre-boil volume = Batch Size + Trub Loss + Boil Off + shrinkage, and bottling volume = Batch Size - fermenter losses, so batch size in BS is definately into fermenter (after trub losses). BS then also has Mash...

Not following you there? We get 23L of wort in the fermenter/cube (because the 23L = 26.5L - 2.5L trub - 1L cooling) , so "Actual Kettle Volume" is the volume into the FV yeah? But you should have 26.5L of wort and trub sitting in the fermenter? Or are you saying that the 2.5L is the actual...

Wouldn't the cheapest and eaisest way to get a nice touchscreen interface onto something like this be with an ethernet shield and a cheap android tablet. You can get 7" tablets for around the $60 mark now days.