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This may be a BrewMate termanology thing then (i'm a beersmith person myself), but from the screen shot posted by GuyQLD a few posts ago Wort Volume after Boil = 26.5L Losses to Trub and Chiller = 2.5L Final Volume = 24.0L After Cooling = 23L Actual Volume in Kettle = 23L To me, it seems...

Which is what Mash Efficency is about - the amount of sugars extracted during the mash. If you are measuring efficency into the fermenter, then you should only include sugars that make it into the fermenter.

Which brings us to another discussion on how people interperate a term. Including losses means to factor losses into the equation. Include (positive) losses (negative) of 5L (positive) = -5L (negative). Including losses doesn't mean adding the losses back into the volumes. If you are...

There is a good description of Mash vs Brewhouse efficency here. Basically - Mash efficency is pre trub losses, Brew house is after losses. Generally Mash Efficency is measured into the kettle, however evaporation "losses" will not actually effect the calculation as you are not boiling off...

This has been my experience as well. Next go i am going to try using a better brand milk (i'm using the $1/L cheap stuff atm) - i'm wondering if the crap they dilute it with is thinning out the end result. If that doesn't work (or if it does but i still want it thicker) , i'm going to try...

:beer:

i'm sure if you were to put together an arduino with an ethernet shield and temp probe(s) that could upload to your webservice and sell them as a plug and play type device you'd get a few takers. The problem with just hosting the webservice is anyone who can put together their own arduino...

Are you sure there is a difference, or is there just a lag because you're not using thermal paste? If it is actually a difference, there should be no problem with correcting it in software. If its lag, then you don't want to be adjusting or you're measurements will then be out once the probe...

The soap may affect the head retention of your beer, especially if he just drained and stored upside down without rinsing (you'll have soap residue left in the bottle)

chew on a bit. you'll be able to tell if its stale or not.

I find 60 minute boil is about 30 mins quicker than a 90 :P there is some pretty good answers in this thread though.

Do you mean GOUP? :P

Completely normal. When you bottle/natrually carb a beer/cider it is just fermentation producing CO2. The primary fermentation produces CO2 as well and some of this is absorbed into the beer. This is the reason that priming calculators need the maximum temperature that the beer has been at...

Its not called beer until your airlock stops bubbling.

If he's using say 5m long lines with a 5mm ID there will be less than 100ml in the line, so it really depends on what you mean by "long". If its only a few meters, i wouldn't bother. If he's running it to the other side of the house then it might be worth it (but he'll have other issues to...

Flooded fonts work by filling the entire inside of the font with water/glycol, not by running an additional hose inside. From the looks of it (especially since it can be pulled in half) hes not going to beable to flood that.

Carbing at fermenting temperature is perfect. (remember that carbing is a result of fermentation) edit: Re-read your post and just wanted to make sure - when you say keg, you do mean a corny type keg (ie. one you connect beer taps to), and not the fermenter don't you?

he said "something like" implying a margin of error, so it is more precise than it is accurate.

it would have been quicker to google "My airlock has stopped bubbling" and read about why you shouldn't be relying your airlock. There are many many reasons why your airlock will not bubble whilst its still fermenting, and many as to why it will continue bubbling after fermentation is complete.

The manual linked by hellbent referes to this as the temperature differential. This is how far away from the set temperature it will allow it to get before kicking in. eg. if the Temp is set at 18deg and differential is set at 2deg then it will kick in heating at 16deg and cooling at 20deg.