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What in yeasting hell is this fantastic contraption and how do I get one?

Why don't you try bulk priming? Siphon off from the top into a second FV with priming sugar and then bottle from there. That way you're guaranteed to draw off clean, clear beer.

Same. But not sure the probe is threaded for that kind of orientation.

Ahh I just recalled this post from Lael. In which case it wouldn't matter what diameter the thread was. The smaller the better.

1/2" would be better for me too. I'm just thinking if it's 1/2" then it could be installed inline on the HEX outlet using a 1/2" BSP tee. (I'm a 3V brewer).

You also want to do it while fermentation is still active, so that any oxygen that might get into the FV is consumed by the yeast. If fermentation is over and you dry hop by adding the FV then you're at risk of oxidation.

Nice brew sculpture Milk Lizard, but isn't that ring burner going to heat the bejesus out of it?

Hey BOG, temps are pretty stable. But in order to make it removable I haven't put any cladding on the underside, and therefore it's not as insulated as it could be. However, I have performed a single infusion with no recirc before (a tragic brew day when my pump discharge nozzle snapped off) and...

Option 1 is taking 75L of water from ambient to 68C with 2.4 kW. Option 2 is taking 42L of water from ambient to something higher than 68C with 2.4 kW, because you want the two volumes of water (42L of hot water and 33L at ambient) to reach an equilibrium temperature which you can then add more...

Bob's Bar - top of the Print Hall has the best variety and rotation. Belgian Beer Café (I know right?? They totally got the message that overpriced imported Euro-swill wasn't what we want to buy - now they've got a good selection of craft tap and bottled beer). Old Faithful on King Street has a...

and polyurethane foam from Clarke Rubber, for added insulation, as well as something for the jacket to clamp into.

Honestly, didn't cost much either. Just a bit of Tassie Oak from Bunnings, bunch of wood screws, sealer, and a bit of patience.

The liquid on top is generally the water/wort that you want to dispose of in order to get to the yeast layer. The middle layer is the yeasty goodness (see this thread). Sounds like there's a fair chance you pitched a very tiny concentration of yeast cells.

What temp did you take your initial reading at? 1.052 at 20C hopefully. Then the reading at 16C when adjusted to 20C is probably around 1.048 or something. i.e. something is happening very slowly. Suggest pitching a dehydrated pack of US-05, bringing it up to 18C and crossing your fingers as...

As promised multiple times, a set of pics to demonstrate how the jacket I made is removable. Reason being that wort and other stuff can get in the cladding and fester after a while. I made it removable so that it can be washed down and so that the keggle can be cleaned easier too. And as a man...

I cut mine last year and suffered a lag in subsequent bine growth. While everyone else was posting and boasting great bines mine were yet to break the surface! In hindsight I'd have left the shoots and let it grow as it wanted to grow.

...and many smarter than me too. Just around here to learn :)

Ahh I see what you're saying. You're assuming that the rest finishes before all the amylose is converted to maltose. But our malts are so well modified nowadays that the diastatic power of the grain can convert a mash in around 15 minutes. A rest in the alpha range would result in fewer...

I've been meaning to take some photos of my jacket and its removability for a while, so when I get around to it i'll let you know. Might give you an idea if you find there's any issues down the track with cleaning. Great looking build though shoobs ;-)

How does a longer rest in the beta give a maltier beer? I understand that it creates small sugar chains, resulting in a drier beer (less residual large-chain sugars). Aren't the Maillard reaction products primarily responsible for maltiness, with alpha rest also contributing malty mouthfeel...