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fermentation temps affect beer in a major way. fluctuating temps also impact on the result. if your temps are starting at 18`c and going up to 23`c then i don't think a heatpad will help you much. you'll get a stable temp but it will be too high. 22`c is getting pretty warm for a yeast though i...

yeah waiting is terrible when your thirsty. i suggest getting another fermenter and building up a stock so when you finally can drink your beer you don't run out and need another 4 weeks to wait for your next lot. as for your question all lagers take a lot longer to ferment both in bottle and...

it might be just me but i wouldn't trust an old fermenter, espescially a coloured one.

sounds good. :) i have only had good luck so far with my brews, all bar the last two were morgans. 1 of them was a tin from a morgans brewing kit, no idea how long it had been in there. the last two were ESB 3 liter jobbies. they both had safale 04 in them so i expect they should work fine...

not being a lager brewer this might be a noob question... but why do you pitch at 20`c? isn't it better to treat the yeast to the same temps it will work at?

you could open the bottles after carbonation and throw in some preservative. sorry if this is was necro.

you could of course scoop a certain amount of the yeast cake out and leave enough in for fermentation. i doubt a quick scooping would do much to increase risk and you'll still have plenty of cell count to reduce lagtime.

i just bought a 25l water container that is very much like a fermenter. slightly narrower neck on it, no hole for air lock. but it was $16 from bunnings. i just put a brew in it not half an hour ago. it seems to be very suitable but the bung hole needed a tap so thats another $2. plus i have to...

the brewers world on morayfield road has yeasts and hops. can't say about thier quality though since i've never used any of it.

i think the big taste issue is just time. give your beer some, it's overcoming all sorts of hurdles and will get there eventually. i've lost track of how many have posted about their beer that was awful but some months down the track was pretty good.

brewing low ABV without losing body seems to be a huge brewing challange. does brewing a full strength brew and then diluting it work? what about arresting fermentation? how do you get body into a beer if you don't put enough suger in? seems like more trouble than it's worth but i guess thats...

less suger will take less time to ferment yes? i don't think the overall time in fermenter would change drasticly though. mebbe 2 days less? i dunno i'm guessing based on the concept of fermentation completion graph would still slope at the same rate as a brew with more suger. you'd just start...

:lol: thats a little harsh! i take it you mean little hop flavour. well thats good then should be a better kit brew really.

sorry about late posting. science says heat transfers fastest with a higher tempreture difference. so if you cool 5l of hot wort you will cool it faster than if you try cooling 20l of not as hot wort. and you ideally want to reach the correct temperature quickly. i found trying to cool a...

so i've made 2 brews now. the first i wasn't expecting anything worth while but it turned out to be easy to drink and is all gone now. the second i used a DLME instead of dextrin and it seems to be a better brew but only being in bottle for a week it's too soon to tell. anyway my third brew i...

at that price they could be used as fermenters too yeah?

just as an FMI how far would a 90g bag of hops get you on average. say for a bittering POR style and for a aroma style?

sorry guys i realised as i posted it that i was off track. i tried to fix it with the next post but apparently i'm not used to pushing the right icons in this forums. :(

the flavours and esters produced by yeasts vary depending on the yeast as well. i'm sure you didn't really want to know that though. :P

i didn't type anything here... <_<