Style Of The Week 3/1/07 - Kolsch

[Stuster]

By request once more, it's the mash paddle style for this year, Kolsch, BJCP style 6C.

A post by the other Stu :lol: announcing the mash paddle for 2007 including lots of good links can be found here.

Another article on the style from Brewing Techniques,
here

So what are your experiences with this style? Grains? Hops? Which yeast to use? Any dry yeast that will work with this style? Can this style be done by partial mashers? Any commercial examples that you can recommend?

Tell us all you know about this style. :chug:

6C. Klsch

Aroma: Very low to no malt aroma. A pleasant, very subtle fruit aroma from fermentation (apple, cherry or pear) is desirable, but not always present. A low noble hop aroma is optional but not out of place (it is present only in a small minority of authentic versions). Some yeasts may give a slight winy or sulfury character (this characteristic is also optional, but not a fault).

Appearance: Very pale gold to light gold. Authentic versions are filtered to a brilliant clarity. Has a delicate white head that may not persist.

Flavor: Soft, rounded palate comprising of a delicate flavor balance between soft yet attenuated malt, an almost imperceptible fruity sweetness from fermentation, and a medium-low to medium bitterness with a delicate dryness and slight pucker in the finish (but no harsh aftertaste). One or two examples (Dom being the most prominent) are noticeably malty-sweet up front. Some versions can have a slightly sulfury yeast character that accentuates the dryness and flavor balance. Some versions may have a slight wheat taste, although this is quite rare. Otherwise very clean with no diacetyl or fusels.

Mouthfeel: Smooth and crisp. Light body, although a few versions may be medium-light. Medium carbonation. Highly attenuated.

Overall Impression: A clean, crisp, delicately balanced beer usually with very subtle fruit flavors and aromas. Subdued maltiness throughout leads to a pleasantly refreshing tang in the finish. To the untrained taster easily mistaken for a light lager, a somewhat subtle pilsner, or perhaps a blonde ale.

History: Klsch is an appellation protected by the Klsch Konvention, and is restricted to the 20 or so breweries in and around Cologne (Kln). The Konvention simply defines the beer as a "light, highly attenuated, hop-accentuated, clear top-fermenting vollbier."

Comments: Served in a tall, narrow 200ml glass called a "Stange." Each Cologne brewery produces a beer of different character, and each interprets the Konvention slightly differently. Allow for a range of variation within the style when judging. Note that drier versions may seem hoppier or more bitter than the IBU specifications might suggest. Due to its delicate flavor profile, Klsch tends to have a relatively short shelf-life; older examples can show some oxidation defects. Some Cologne breweries (e.g., Dom, Hellers) are now producing young, unfiltered versions known as Wiess (which should not be entered in this category).

Ingredients: German noble hops (Hallertau, Tettnang, Spalt or Hersbrucker). German pils or pale malt. Attenuative, clean ale yeast. Up to 20% wheat may be used, but this is quite rare in authentic versions. Extremely soft water. Traditionally uses a step mash program, although good results can be obtained using a single rest at 149F. Fermented at cool ale temperatures (59-65F, although many Cologne brewers ferment at 70F) and lager for at least a month.
Vital Statistics:
OG FG IBUs SRM ABV
1.044 - 1.050 1.007 - 1.011 20 - 30 3.5 - 5 4.4 - 5.2%

Commercial Examples: Available in Cologne only: PJ Frh, Hellers, Malzmhle, Paeffgen, Sion, Peters, Dom; import versions available in parts of North America: Reissdorf, Gaffel; US versions: Goose Island Summertime, Crooked River Klsch, Harpoon Summer Beer, Capitol City Capitol Klsch

 

[DJR]

Requests, Requests Stu eh...

Remember the main thing is that you want high attenuation in this style - so if you're not using an attenuative yeast (usually the Kolsch yeasts don't actually attenuate that much without some work) you have to work on your mash temps to get it up - a 45m rest at 63 followed by another 45m rest at 71 should help you hit 80+% attenuation with pretty much any yeast out there. Also a long maltose rest at 62-63C is very important, to increase the effect of this you can add 10% of your grist about half way through this rest to replenish the beta amylase.

Don't add Gypsum of course, as it's not a hoppy style and will add a weird dryness that will be out of place, just use some Calcium Chloride. I have had good results with Saphir and Taurus hops, i reckon anything German should be fine, there's usually a not of hop flavour/aroma in a Kolsch, just a faint background whiff that could be just 0.5g/L of flavour/aroma hops. You could get away with just using some high-alpha clean bittering hops and just be done with it, about 5-10g of Magnum/Taurus/Northern Brewer would be all it takes at 75m to get about 20-25 IBU.

Yeast - i wouldn't think that US56 would be good, i am about to put one on with K-97 though just to see if it's a good backup dry strain, S-33 or Nottingham *might* be OK as they are fairly clean, however nothing beats 1007 German, 2565 Kolsch, WLP029 German/Kolsch or one of the Euro Ale/Alt strains.

Warner reckons up to 20% wheat and the remainder Pils is the right way to go, personally i like something a bit more malty and add about 1-2% melanoidin or munich malt, however this probably throws it out of balance just a little. Next one will just be 90% pils and 10% wheat.

 

[mika]

Can't say I've tried many examples of a Kolsch, but gotta say that Spruikers Challenge from Colonial Brewery in Margaret River makes a real nice beer that they call a Kolsch Ale.

Planning on trying a clone as soon as the weather cools down.

 

[neonmeate]

sorry missed this SOTW when i was on hols. DJR has already covered things very well but i will tell you my experiences for the hell of it.

i have made two of these, i think both were 90%pils 10% wheat malt. one of them used JW pils and I wasn't very impressed with it - next time I will definitely be using Weyermann.
munich malt flavour isn't very koelschy but it makes it more interesting for sure - most koelsches from koeln could do with some serious flavour transplants. i tried like 15 of them in cologne and most of them did nothing much other than be yellow.

i like tettnang, mittelfruh, saaz for koelsch - perfumey, flowery hops. spalt might work too? i personally think koelsches are suicidally boring without some hop aroma.

you want to ferment as cool as practical - like 14C or so. and lager for a month if you can - it makes a big difference.
i've used 1007 and 2565, both good although 1007 is slow to clear. have used WLP29 in alts and i like that too.

next time i make a koelsch i think i will do a "pilsener koelsch" and throw 200g of something noble in.

 

[razz]

I made 2 batches last year using the 2565 yeast from Wyeast. These would have to be the most well balanced beers I have ever made. I made them to style, if you are a hophead you will need to go outside the style, well and truly. 63 degrees mash rest and fermented at 14 degrees, I hit the high end of attenuation for the yeast (77%) This is the only beer I have made that allowed a honey addition to show through, I guess it was from the balance of hops/malt. A ratio of .5. I plan to make more this year for the spring season. I might also give it a try with Whitelabs european ale yeast for something different.

 

[DJR]

2565 is great. I have just done my first batch using it, and i have no idea where wyeast's "extremely poor flocculating yeast" comes from. I top cropped some of it and built it up on the (new) stirplate for next time thinking that i wasn't going to get anything from the primary yeastcake - well, there was quite a big primary yeastcake! It's been in secondary only a couple of days and it is already quite clear. I'll bung it in the fridge for 2-3 weeks to get the crispness and help it flocc a bit more...

This one was 90% JW Pils, 5% JW Light Munich, 5% JW Wheat. You could probably use vienna malt at up to about 10-15% of the grist without affecting colour too much. As neonmeate says the pilsner and wheat only is a bit boring. The Xmas case one i used Melanoidin in! In the Warner Kolsch book George fix goes on about his recipe which uses Crystal malt... h34r:

I like Saphir but then again i do have a pound of it in the fridge courtesy of Ross! Styrians and Saaz also work well - used them in the Xmas case koelsch.

 

[razz]

I also think it would be an excellent beer to showcase the Nelson sauvin hop, although it maybe out of style.

 

[chris.taylor.98]

I've done this style 3 or 4 times now, and must admit that it is probably one of my most request styles from friends and relatives.

Actually have one in the secondary at the moment, unfortunatelly I over sparged it and it has turned out horribly astringent.

I highly recommend wyeast 2565 for this style. In my opionin it is the yeast that really seperates this styles from others, and adds the unique Kolsch characteristics. This particular strain definitely imparts a very pleasant honey character.

I have brewed this with up to 20% wheat, and in one case about 30% ale malt, and would rate this last one as one of the most drinkable beers I have made, although not really to style.

The last batch was 10% wheat, 90% pils (Powells) mashed at 65C, and achieved 83% attenuation (OG 1.048, FG 1.008 ) fermenting at 15C.

This yeast is highly floculant (emphasis on the highly), and would definitely recommend filtering is you have the capabilities ( unfortunately I do not ). When bottled you will notice that the yeast can be disturbed very very easily.

I have also found that this style does not keep well after about 9mths or so.

 

[chris.taylor.98]

Hmmm ... must learn to get my terminolgy right ... above post should read "poorly flocculant".

2656 will not compact down ... ie if you bottle condition like me, don't agitate the bottles or you will end up with a something that looks like a belgain wit.

Note it does settle out of the beer quite readily and you will end up with quite a clear beer without too much effort.

 

[mika]

I have also found that this style does not keep well after about 9mths or so.

I want to know what size batch you're brewing to make it last 9months ? h34r:

 

[Weizguy]

I have the Warner book, and made a Klsch with 90% German pils and 10% wheat malt with Perle for Bittering & flavour and Hersbrucker for aroma.

I no-chilled most of the wort and saved the remainder in PET bottles in the freezer. Thawed some out and gave it a 10 min boil/cool before pitching onto Duff's sediment from his NSW case Klsch.

The culture tastes so authentic (delicious) that I think I'll re-culture, after decanting the culture into a bottle with priming sugar.

Such a shame that I have only a 25 l batch in the jerry can.

BTW, the WLP029 recommends a ferment temp of no less than 18 C. My culture prob got up to 24 or evn 26C, and it still has great flavour. Not recommended, of course, but may be worth a try (to ferment at room temp in Summer if no cooling is available).

Beerz
Seth

 

[SJW]

I just bottled my first Kolsch. I used a big scoop of fresh Wyeast 2565 and it went of like a bomb. But I could only get it down to 1012 from 1048. Maybe I mashed a bit warm at 66 deg C.
Anyway, the final product is very fruity. Is this just the yeast and does it settle down after a while in the bottle?

Steve

 

[DJR]

2565 is pretty fruity, that's what gives it the Kolsch flavour.

What temp did you ferment at?

The WLP029 is very clean at 18-20C, 2565 probably needs about 15C to come out as clean

66C is pretty high for a Kolsch - you could cheat and use cane sugar as part of the grist (about 5%) if using that temp

 

[SJW]

Yep DJR, I fermented at 20 deg. I think its not too bad though. As I am used to doing malt driven German Lagers with 34/70 and Wyeast 2206 I think this is more of a shock to the system rather than any major problems. Saying that, the Kolsch has only been in the bottle one week and I think it will be ok.

Steve

 

[alamout]

G'day everyone,
I joined up a few days ago, great site!
it's nice to see some metric measurements on a forum for a change!

I'm pretty new to brewing, so far I've done 4 (all extracts with some grain steeps) - I'm trying to step up the complexity / fun of it each time (went from the basic can + brewblend --> coopers sparking with small bag of steeped grains and bottle cultured yeast --> american brown ale with 3 different grain steeps ---> bit of a mixup of spare ingredients inc. enzyme which I haven't haven't bottled yet but it wen't from 1.060 to 1.001 and doesn't taste too bad (very hoppy and dry))

annnnyway, enough rambling,
next plan is to do a partial mash with a cooler / grain bag trying to get about half my grav points from grains and the rest from extract, and as it's getting cooler (in canberra) i'm thinking about trying a kolsch.

my main question is this,
I hear a lot about lagering and/or conditioning - most of the time hearing along the lines of primary ferment coolish (anywhere from 14-17 degrees?) then rack to a secondary and drop it down to 0-4degrees for a month or two ?

At the moment I don't have a secondary fermenenter and it'll be a bit hard to stick it in the fridge if I do get one, how would bottling after 1-2 weeks in the primary then trying to lager the bottles in the fridge for a month or two work? Or does the secondary continue to ferment at the low temperature and therefore be dangerous / just not work in the bottles?

any advice would be great! I'd like to try and make a stash of beers for next summer while it's cool.
thanks.

 

[SJW]

OK alamout,
The first thing u need is another fermenter/cube for conditioning and bulk priming. Cold Conditioning of Lagers, IMO, is not that essential but I would recommend that u rack all beers to a secondary for at least two weeks for 2 reasons.
1/ to ensure that the yeast had finished its job 100% thus eliminating any bottle bombs.
2/ It will help the beer clear a lot more and gets the wort off the old yeast cake helping to eliminate off flavours.
But if u have another fridge and IMO at least 4 weeks u would notice a big diff with Cold Conditioning Lagers at as close to 0 Deg C a possible. It makes the beer very clean and crisp prior to bottling.
I think the trick to making a good brew is a nice cool fermentation. Less than 20 Deg C depending on your yeast. Some Lager yeast like Wyeast 2206 will still chug away at 4 or 5 deg C.
Hope this helps.

Steve

 

[alamout]

OK alamout,
The first thing u need is another fermenter/cube for conditioning and bulk priming. Cold Conditioning of Lagers, IMO, is not that essential but I would recommend that u rack all beers to a secondary for at least two weeks for 2 reasons.
1/ to ensure that the yeast had finished its job 100% thus eliminating any bottle bombs.
2/ It will help the beer clear a lot more and gets the wort off the old yeast cake helping to eliminate off flavours.
But if u have another fridge and IMO at least 4 weeks u would notice a big diff with Cold Conditioning Lagers at as close to 0 Deg C a possible. It makes the beer very clean and crisp prior to bottling.
I think the trick to making a good brew is a nice cool fermentation. Less than 20 Deg C depending on your yeast. Some Lager yeast like Wyeast 2206 will still chug away at 4 or 5 deg C.
Hope this helps.

Steve

thanks Steve,
I've certainly been contemplating getting a second fermenter, especially if i'm going to tie one up for 6 or more weeks. I've been leaving my beers in the primary for 3-4 weeks so far which doesn't seem to have affected the flavour too much and has let them clear up / finish fermenting nicely, but more fermenters = more beer!

regarding second ferm., should I get a glass carboy or just another plastic bucket type, not sure how keen I am on siphoning if i can avoid it, i hear having a smaller secondary is good for less headroom but I think I can get plastic fermenters pretty close to the glass ones in size.

sorry to all if this is getting off topic, it did start out relating to kolsch!

 

[DarkFaerytale]

hey all, how do you all think saaz b will go in a kolsch?

-Phill

 

[razz]

Are you brewing to style Phil ? If so, I think the SaazB will go well.

 

[DarkFaerytale]

yep, here's the recipe

90% pils
10% wheat
mashed at 64-65C

22.5IBU with a 60 min addition and then another small addition with 10 mins to go

wyeast koelsch yeast at 14C for a couple weeks then lager for a couple more weeks

thanks Razz, means i can use the left over hops in a bright ale clone

-Phill