Purchasing 50l Braumeister

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Black n Tan said:
hmmm i must be doing something wrong. I get 85% mash efficiency, but lose 7-8L in trub which drag down my brewhouse efficiency to low 70s. I use whirlfloc and whirlpool. What gives?
Get a good whirlpool going, then when you get down to about 8 litres tilt the brau from the back, a block of wood I use about 5cms thick gets my losses down to about 3l, if you have a good cone you will still get clear wort till the end.

You can see when the cone will start to get sucked into the tap, stop at that point. Should get you nudging 80% assuming no other issues.

MHB used to stock a pickup for the Brau, I have messaged him about it to no avail, would be handy to ditch the tilting.
 
thebigwilk said:
That's just silly!!!
You're obviously not only a psychologist but a beer expert. How about you give the boys some advice.
 
**** I was just there today! Thanks for the suggestion stakka82.
 
Hey thebigwilk what is your problem? I'm asking for help and all you can do is try and shit on me. Maybe I'm not some master brewer like you sure as shit seem to be but it's something I enjoy and want to get better at.
Thank you Stakka82 for your advice. How much grain do you use? Maybe I'm not measuring my efficiency right.
 
For the numbers I posted before probably around the 10kg mark.

The volume of wort you get out of the brau and the gravity of that wort will determine your brewhouse efficiency given the amount of grain you use. A simple and free program like brewmate is enough to be able to plug those figures in and come to your efficiency. With brewmate you can scale the efficiency box up and down until the figures match. Plug in the amount of grain you use, and the finished volume of wort you get, and move the efficiency until your OG matches what you measure using a hydro at the cubing/chilling/end of boil stage. What the efficiency reads is then your brewhouse efficiency.

If you get a handle on that and want more accurate measurements use beersmith. With beersmith you can mess around with measurements preboil, post boil, etc and figure out where you're losing out.
 
MHB used to stock a pickup for the Brau, I have messaged him about it to no avail, would be handy to ditch the tilting.
[/quote]

I use a bit of 2x4 and tilt her forward to get maximum wort out of the rig, gets another 3 Lt into the FV.

I have a pickup tube and seal if your interested in buying from me, I only used it once and haven't since?
 
image.jpg

The photo is upside down...lol. You get the idea of the pickup tube though.
 
I wonder why some non Braumeister people get their little cotton tails in such a twist when they read a Braumeister thread?

Sometimes I even wonder if it's a itty bitty of jealously showing.....no surely not...silly, silly me.
 
Another way of doing it, and that's how I've done it for well over a year now, is to not whirlpool at all.

Use some good kettle finings like brew brite or whirlflock and just let the stuff settle as is.
It will settle in a nice compact flat layer, then drain the vessel until you reach the tap, then carefully tilt and put a wooden block or whatever under the back leg.

From my personal experience I found that I get more clear wort that way as there's no cone that could possibly 'tip over', the wort will just run over your flat layer when done carefully.

If I no chill I always start my run off when the temp hits 93 degrees, by then I have a compact layer of crap down the bottom and I can be confident that the wort is still hot enough for some decent pasteurisation happening in the cube. YMMV though.

EDIT: Might just be worth pointing out that this is specifically applicable for the BM, as the tap seems somewhat higher than other boil vessels.
 
A hot tip I should mention as I came close to being undone today. Your grain must be milled if you are using a braumeister.
 
yeah, that's clearly one of the down sides compared to traditional 3 vessel brewing.
 
Florian said:
Another way of doing it, and that's how I've done it for well over a year now, is to not whirlpool at all.

Use some good kettle finings like brew brite or whirlflock and just let the stuff settle as is.
It will settle in a nice compact flat layer, then drain the vessel until you reach the tap, then carefully tilt and put a wooden block or whatever under the back leg.

From my personal experience I found that I get more clear wort that way as there's no cone that could possibly 'tip over', the wort will just run over your flat layer when done carefully.

If I no chill I always start my run off when the temp hits 93 degrees, by then I have a compact layer of crap down the bottom and I can be confident that the wort is still hot enough for some decent pasteurisation happening in the cube. YMMV though.

EDIT: Might just be worth pointing out that this is specifically applicable for the BM, as the tap seems somewhat higher than other boil vessels.
This is what I do. After it's chilled I just let it sit for about 20 minutes then start to drain and as others have said, gently tilt the BM as it gets low. I found this is better than trying to whirlpool.

When I first got the BM I'd decant the last 8 or nine litres into 5l demijohns and then put them in the fridge overnight before putting them in with the beer but this was a pita.
 
Pratty1 said:
attachicon.gif
image.jpg

The photo is upside down...lol. You get the idea of the pickup tube though.

Yes, use one of these and you'll drain most of your wort without tilting.
 
sillyboybrybry said:
I knew my mash paddle wasn't big enough. My wife said it was fine. She said she hadn't ever seen any bigger.
It because she is having a bit of my new big shiny new mash paddle on the side
 
So, are G&G, Marks homebrew and craftbrewer still the only 3 sellers of BM?
 

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