Lme Vs Dme

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Housecat

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Hi all,


This has probably been beaten to death but I thought I'd ask the question as my searching has proved useless,

Why would I use one over the other and what benefits can I expect to see in a standard k & k affair?

I ask this as I usually use the DME in my kits but am wondering if it would change things up to use LME instead.


TIA

HC :drinks:
 
Stick with the dry. It's cheaper, easier to work with and in my experience makes 2 parts of sweet FA difference to the final product. Only advantage I see is that liquid malt would be pasturised and sanitary so you can add it straight to the fermenter (from an un-opened tin), where as dry I feel it safer to boil it up for a few mins. But really it's not hard to chuck in the dry malt for the last few mins of the boil.
 
Benefits of dry are extended storage, and ease of measuring and keeping partially used packets without all the mess.

I use both, but only as they can be purhcased in convenient sizes for my brews.

I use 1.5k LME and 500g DME per brew with K&K, and do the boil using the LME, frankly I have never boiled DME to sterilise, always just dumped it in.

Personal preference, the DME has more advantages for storage, lasts longer, easier to use partial packets and reseal, easy to weigh, you need less of it as it doesnt have water content, it costs less and is less messy...but hey, I just like to use LME as well!
 
more variety in LME. Having said that, in my short but enjoyable extract days I used mostly DME
 
normally when I brew I'll use say 1 tin of lme and work out the remainder dme - but my next move is to go buy a 25kg bag dme and just rely on that from now on, trying to cut back the cost a bit
 
dme is must to have around if you want to reculture yeast strains.all kits are essentially lme with some(so called)hops thrown in.The only advantage I get from lme is that my LHBS sells light,amber,dark,wheat,etc...but only sells light or dark dme-depends what you trying to make I guess.
 
I've been using LME and I think I'm going to slowly move away from them. My biggest problem is it's such a pain to get the residual stuff out of the tin. DME seems much more convenient and hassle free (as previous stated on this thread).
 
being a kit manufacturer, I find ill informed comments like this offensive.


i know that this is a common misconception about kits... but if you could enlighten us further that would be great. I'm interested in the process of making hopped extract and would love to know what goes into the kit and therefore into the beer.

Please elaborate.

:icon_cheers:
 
Stick with the dry. It's cheaper, easier to work with and in my experience makes 2 parts of sweet FA difference to the final product. Only advantage I see is that liquid malt would be pasturised and sanitary so you can add it straight to the fermenter (from an un-opened tin), where as dry I feel it safer to boil it up for a few mins. But really it's not hard to chuck in the dry malt for the last few mins of the boil.

Hi,

My LHBS bloke charges more for the dry stuff. He reckons the process takes longer as the liquid malt extract has to be dried.

Just a silly question: Do you use some form of magic to add the LME to the fermenter from an 'un-opened tin' ? :) :blink:

Cheers
 
being a kit manufacturer, I find ill informed comments like this offensive.

Wasnt trying to offend you,-We all started using kits and moved on to extracts/partials AG etc.but do have to say the isohops in most kits need a workout to make a great beer.In my experiance the only kit that makes a beer I'd drink at any time and be happy with it is the Coopers dark ale.-luv it and always keep 1 fermenter goin.do dry hop with POR 48 hrs b4 bottling though.
 
I think what Jimboley is referring to (correct me if needs be) is that at least some kits are just basically concentrated AG worts.

I know Coopers for one make their kits the same way they make their beer - AG wort, hops, boil, possibly (if necessary) add a bit of isohop post boil for consistency. The only difference is that the kits are boiled further to a concentrate.

The idea that all kits are LME plus isohop is not what I would call offensive but it is incorrect. I have little doubt that many other kits follow the same path as Coopers.
 
I think what Jimboley is referring to (correct me if needs be) is that at least some kits are just basically concentrated AG worts.

I know Coopers for one make their kits the same way they make their beer - AG wort, hops, boil, possibly (if necessary) add a bit of isohop post boil for consistency. The only difference is that the kits are boiled further to a concentrate.

The idea that all kits are LME plus isohop is not what I would call offensive but it is incorrect. I have little doubt that many other kits follow the same path as Coopers.
What I meant by my original comment was that kits are essentially hopped lme-not as an insult to kits but trying to answer a newbies question.-I agree that kits are made as a boiled down/hopped AG.From what I have learned (albeit only thru web searches) lme is made by boiling down certain grains(ag style)-so a kit is essentially hopped lme.sorry for any offence-I know I couldnt make a commercial kit.
 
My biggest problem is it's such a pain to get the residual stuff out of the tin.


I use both. much of a muchness depending on which style of beer you want or what brewing method you are uising.

Getting the residual stuff out of the Lme or kit tin is as easy as using the tin to fill the fermenter with the water that you want to use to reach the desired volume. Just swirl the water in the tin and the Lme wil disolve although this may take a few litres to achieve. ;)
 
Thanks all for the comments, it's been some interesting reading.

FWIW, I think I'll stick with the DME until I need an amber malt in my beer (not likely to use wheat as I'm not one for wheat style beers)
 
FWIW, I think I'll stick with the DME until I need an amber malt in my beer (not likely to use wheat as I'm not one for wheat style beers)

Why not, you can always trick it up with specialty grain to suit your goals.
 
I might give it a go one day but Wheat beer styles and insanely hopped beers don't suit my palate. Horses for courses an all that!

Having said that, I am wanting to use the specialty grains in my beers but can't see the point when I can't temp control very well (this is my next major brewing goal)
 
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