Heat Pads

[beerbog]

A an alternative to a heat belts and pads. I use the heating element out of a water bed.
It looks like a small camping mat, and is exactly the perfect height and length to wrap once around a fermenter.
Obviously it is waterproof, has a graduated temp dial, and for greater peace of mind, I have it attached to a tempmate.

Just scavenged from a council pickup, but has worked perfectly for years.

Well worth keeping an eye out for.

Sounds like a good idea. :beerbang:

 

[Daniel.lear]

If not willing to take risk do not read.

I am not an electrician.

But... LeathalCorpse look away now...

If your handy electrically and willing to play, you could try this:

Buy 6x 2.2kΩ 5W resistors;
scrounge a piece of a piece of thick, say 0.040", aluminium sheet;
240v power cable.

Connect 3 pairs of resistors in series and join the pairs together in parallel.

Hook active to one side and neutral to the other and affix to a piece of aluminium sheet with heat paste.

This will give you a heat pad for about 5 bucks @ a touch under 40watts.

Brilliant!! I currently have 2 and not one burnt down house

Be sure to earth and insulate where appropriate.

 

[Banshee]

If not willing to take risk do not read.

I am not an electrician.

But... LeathalCorpse look away now...

If your handy electrically and willing to play, you could try this:

Buy 6x 2.2kΩ 5W resistors;
scrounge a piece of a piece of thick, say 0.040", aluminium sheet;
240v power cable.

Connect 3 pairs of resistors in series and join the pairs together in parallel.

Hook active to one side and neutral to the other and affix to a piece of thick, say 0.040" aluminium sheet with heat paste.

This will give you a heat pad for about 5 bucks @ a touch under 40watts.

Brilliant!! I currently have 2 and not one burnt down house

Be sure to earth and insulate where appropriate.

Can you post some picks or a diagram?
Wouldn't a 40w globe through the same heat and just as easy if not easier.

 

[Daniel.lear]

Can you post some picks or a diagram?
Wouldn't a 40w globe through the same heat and just as easy if not easier.

A lamp would probably be easier.

Here is something from paint

 

[DU99]

you can also use some heatsink to insulate..light can affect the wort..i wrap a towel around mine

 

[Banshee]

A lamp would probably be easier.

Here is something from paint

Ok, so you house the resistors in a pastic unit and screw that to the aluminium board. Where do you attach the neutral wire?
Does it have to be placed on the opposite end to where the active is or can it be attached anywhere?
Also I guess there is no earth for it.

 

[bum]

You might as well just attach all of them to your sack. Save yourself some time.

Seriously.

Go buy one.

 

[SpillsMostOfIt]

You might as well just attach all of them to your sack. Save yourself some time.

Seriously.

Go buy one.

... or do the exact same-ish thing and power it from a 12V halogen light transformer. Now, you're playing with lower voltages and less likely to remove yourself from the game when it all goes brown.

To paraphrase. If you're intent on playing the DIY heater game, why on earth would you not buy a downlight transformer with a molded-on 240V cord/plug and only have low-voltage inside your fridge?

 

[drsmurto]

I started this thread to open up a discussion about a cheaper alternative to heating your fermentation fridge.

I didn't expect it to turn in to an all out MacGyver fest to see who could knock up the cheapest system using a few wires with the distinct possibility of featuring in the Darwin Awards in years to come.

Homebrewers are by and large, tight arses. A dollar saved and all that.

If you don't want to spend $30 on a heatpad you can get cheaper version which are lower wattage. If you dont have overnight temps of 0C like i do then maybe a 10W heatpad will do the job. Light globes, heat belts - all good.

But please don't put up this dodgy wiring guff that has the potential to cause someone harm. Whilst i am a big fan of natural selection and believe that it doesn't work fast enough in many cases, I'd hate to see a fellow brewer heading off to the big brewery in the sky before their time.

I can't wait for LC to arc up over this discussion on dodgy wiring jobs.

 

[Wolfy]

I started this thread to open up a discussion about a cheaper alternative to heating your fermentation fridge.

I didn't expect it to turn in to an all out MacGyver fest to see who could knock up the cheapest system using a few wires with the distinct possibility of featuring in the Darwin Awards in years to come.
....
But please don't put up this dodgy wiring guff that has the potential to cause someone harm. Whilst i am a big fan of natural selection and believe that it doesn't work fast enough in many cases, I'd hate to see a fellow brewer heading off to the big brewery in the sky before their time.

Spoil sport.

I just ordered some 24 SWG NiChrome wire, look at all the other fun things you can do with it: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...e=STRK:MEWNX:IT

Note: I'll be using mine for a boring, sane and sensible inoculation loop.

 

[bum]

I just ordered some 24 SWG NiChrome wire, look at all the other fun things you can do with it: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...e=STRK:MEWNX:IT

"It is a excellent choice for heating elements operating at temperatures up to 1100c"

Sounds good for my Farmland lager toucan.

 

[Peter Wadey]

Hello Smurto,

I agree with SpillsMostOfIt.

I have a ~25W 12V dc powered resistive array mounted across the output of a 12V dc fan.
The 80-100mm dia. fan is attached via a bracket to the inside side of the fridge.
The supply to the (fan + resistive array) is switched by a thermostat.
This provides gentle heat to the interior of the cabinet.

Rgds,
Peter

 

[drsmurto]

No issue with what SMOI proposed nor yourself. Low voltage is a sensible approach.

 

[Fents]

hurry up LC i want to see some scolding.

 

[Daniel.lear]

I must admit I was hoping to sit back with some popcorn too, alas no such entertainment.

FWIW, I concur with the good Dr et al, low voltage is the superior option if your going to make your own heater.

You did ask for cheap though...

Leary

 

[philmud]

Dr Smurto, a couple of years on, are you still using the reptile heater option? How's it working out if so? Looks like a good budget option to me. I also have a dumb question re: any kind of in-fridge heat option plugged into an STC1000. Does the power cord affect the seal of the fridge? The STC temperature probe is so thin, but it seems that a power cord would be more of an issue.

 

[wbosher]

Dr Smurto, a couple of years on, are you still using the reptile heater option? How's it working out if so? Looks like a good budget option to me. I also have a dumb question re: any kind of in-fridge heat option plugged into an STC1000. Does the power cord affect the seal of the fridge? The STC temperature probe is so thin, but it seems that a power cord would be more of an issue.

I use a heat belt sitting in the fridge, not around the fermenter just sitting beside it, and the stc-1000 probe inside the fermenter. The power cord doesn't seem to have any detrimental effect on the seal at all.

 

[drsmurto]

Dr Smurto, a couple of years on, are you still using the reptile heater option? How's it working out if so? Looks like a good budget option to me. I also have a dumb question re: any kind of in-fridge heat option plugged into an STC1000. Does the power cord affect the seal of the fridge? The STC temperature probe is so thin, but it seems that a power cord would be more of an issue.

The reptile heater is still going strong. A very good investment IMO.

Yes, the power cord does impact on the fridge door seal but it's minimal and regardless of what you use to heat the fridge with you need to get a cord in their to power it.

 

[philmud]

Thanks Doc, I think I'll grab one of these