Yeah, cascade for the flavour addition (15minutes), and again at the very end of the boil, just as it gets pulled off the stove. Some people find fuggle a bit grassy when used for the later additions, personaly I use it in the flavour addition with no issue, but it's a like it or leave it type of hop. I don't use it at flameout or for dry hopping for this reason.
As far as the boil is concerned, you don't need to boil all the ingredients...the hot and cold break is made and removed as part of the manufacturing process, and the liquids are sterile in their cans, so they really only need to be added right at the very end of the boil, and just mixed through. The dry ingredients need to be boiled for sanitation, although to be honest, how many people do when using the same ingredients for kit and kilo type brews? not many.
For an extract brew, you don't need to boil the full volume, unlike with an all grain. So you could get away with a single boil of 8L. I don't think you need the maltodextrin...without it, you would get an OG of 1048@22L, with an fg in the 1010-1012 region. With the maltodext, you would have OG around 1052, and fg around 1014-1016ish. Lets say for the time being, that it gets left out...
steep the grains, and use that water for the boil. Use 1kg of the malt, and make up to 8L. This would give a boil gravity of 1050. The BG doesnt need to be the same as the projected OG for the full volume, but it can make it a bit easier to do the calculations that way...You do the hopping in this pot, calculating how much hops neded for the full volume, but for the Boil gravity that is actually in the pot. In effect, you're making 8L of wort that is bitter enough for all 22L - in essence, producing your own kit. Then the rest of the malts and adjuncts are either added in towards the end, with just enough time to sanatise it, or alternatively are boiled in a second pot, with just enough water to boil it. The whole lot is then added to the fermenter, and topped up to the 22L mark, and voila. If you have the volume of hot/cold right, you can get away with not having to chill, and still hit pitching temps. If not, you will need to cool the boiled wort then add it to the fermenter, and top up with cold. (but if you use
cold water for the topup, the boiled wort doesn't need to be cooled all the way, just enough to bring the whole lot to pitching temp.)
With the amount of hops, there are a few trains of thought....addition times vary, but a common schedule is 60 min for bittering, 15 min for flavour, and 0min for aroma. The shorter additions will add a bit of bitterness, but their main purpose is to add flavour and aroma, so a lot of brewers will set the weights of the last additions based on how much flavour and aroma they want, and then adjust the weight of the 60 minute addition only, in order to vary the bitterness level. For an english style, imo, 0.75g of hops per L of final volume will give a good amount of flavour for the style (which is much less than an american pale ale, for example). So I would set the 15min addition at 15g, and use probably 10-12g for the 0 min addition. Then I would add whatever weight is needed to the 60min addition to achieve the right IBU. (which depends on the Alpha% of the hops, and the boil gravity.) The total IBU required depends on how bitter you want the beer, but the IBU number itself doesn't tell much as far as how it balances the beer....thats where BUGU comes in, which is the ratio of IBU vs OG....the more (malt) sugar in the beer, the more IBU required to give it the same relative bitterness. For an English Bitter, 0.65 is a good ratio, so multiply OG by 0.65, and thats how many IBU to add....this can be tweaked to taste.
If you need any help on the bittering calculations, just whistle.
Edit: Gavo just posted at exactly the same time as me, and must have been reading my bloody mind. So thats what the voices in my head are....
