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I had ACT stainless roll this cone up for me the other week. I used a cone calc and just gave them the measurements. I didn't really need to as they can do this themselves. Cost was $100 for the cone and for the 'tube' underneath it.

Handy little gadget aren't they. I got a new LCD screen for a new project I am working on, it has a 4 line by 30 character blue backlit! Very snazzy. Real power is using the PIC in it's native form, but that is a whole other programming language. My egg-head buddy can program them, but I will...

A laptop in a brewery environment is asking for it I think. PICAXE cost ~$100. Like the LCD screen on the PICAXE does. Or a thermometer for that matter.

Does it control the temps? the PICAXE is controlling 5 devices on its output, and that is not using them all either. Displaying temps is great and all....

Or, you could do away with having a PC sitting there taking up real estate and go picaxe....... http://members.iinet.net.au/~u9013943/picaxe.htm BN

Whatever you do, keep that drill bit cutting and keep it sharp, or you will work harden the SS faster than you know what has happened and then you have a problem!

One tablespoon of Caustic, a liter of water, swirl, and PRESTO! Gunk inside of carboy is gone. BN

And when you put the drill bit through the condensor and or evaporator lines within the freezers skin, you can toss your fridge into the local landfill!

Really? So it is a solid state device? How much was it? I built a similar thing for my RIMS using a 40AMP 1200volt SCR and circuit based on a house light dimmer. It has an optocoupler in the circuit as well though to switch the RIMS heater on an off. So it is kind of a combined dimmer and solid...

Well said Zizzle! :beerbang:

I like the twin 2400w immersion path. They cost $0.65 cents per hour to run the pair of them, and my boil off rate is always dead on. I can predict with certainty what the gravity will be after the boil. My pros'n'cons list.... Pros - QUIET, cheap to run, predictable, doesn't run out of gas...

So if I happened to have a D and an E size cylinder :D .....would these places be happy enough to fill it for me?

Yep, I agree with that contention, but you are now talking about a natural evaporation rate versus a forced phase change to a gas under huge amounts of applied energy. "The issue isn't about how much power goes into the boil" Yes, this does matter. I can boil with one element, or I can boil...

That doesn't sound like solid science there.... If I am applying X amount of power to the boil, it will seek to go no higher than 100degC (ignoring altittude adjustments) regardless of any extra power I add to it. It will simply boil faster, and evap more. The energy applied needs to go...

I worked out the evap based on 4.8KW over 1 hour. Came out to 8 liters. As it happens, that is just what I get! :D Heat source is two 2.4KW immersion heaters. Boiler is an old 50L keg.

Judging by the wet floor, I would say I had just brewed, ergo, just pitched. The low levels were due to me not brewing enough wort, and also the stainless CO2 spike not reaching right to the top of the carboy. I use a 5" piece of silicon tube on top of each spike now. I can fill the fermenters...

The chiller.....Really, if one is to play with these things, you need to have a little technical knowledge of fridge systems. They are simple enough, but building one up needs a little know-how. Also some special gear is needed to pull the vacuum into the system, then gas it using an appropriate...

Yep, shall do. Beats me what I look like! Although some would have plenty to say on that.....Just ask who Nutzy is. Get Dr Kurtz to point me out.

Ahh, ok. I spun some nylon rod and made caps for the ends of the fermenters. The ones you see in the pics there were the prototypes. Into the caps there is a stainless tap with stainless barb, a stainless tube that runs to the 'top' of the fermenter, and a stainless barb to release CO2. OK, so...

Hehe, which part of it! Pete