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Hey Bruer, it's filtered and pasteurised. No chance of finding any live yeasties.

I have to agree with Dr_Rocks. I'm surprised that kegland.com.au started this thread but haven't replied to any of the comments.

I'm sorry to hear, it must be gut wrenching to sell everything before you get to build your dream rig. As it all needs a good home interested in: 3 x 1"/1.5" Tri-Clamp Compatible Butterfly Valve - $35 each 3 x 1"/1.5" Tri-Clamp Compatible 3-Way Tee - $12.50 each 3 x 1"/1.5" Tri-Clamps - $5 each...

Very nice, I've acquired a 120L jackets fermenter and been looking at different options. Thanks for sharing.

I've sent you a private message. Thank you.

Hi guys, I have 6 fermenters I'm happy to give away. I'm sure I can find airlocks and taps for them all. I also have atleast a crate of grolsch bottles and 2 cubes I have only used once. Pick up is in Dee Why. Keen to clean this out pretty soon, so give me a yell. Cheers.

I'd also be in for 2 if it would go ahead.

Hey Crusty, I don't worry about purging with co2, the yeasties will consume and built up the pressure for you . As you said start with 0 and let the pressure build. I also like it as I can see when the ferment has kicked off easier by just checking the pressure gauge.

I'm looking forward to hearing how it go's Mardoo. I'm a little over the KK ones. If it works well I can imagine it wouldn't be hard to organize a bulk buy of these.

I have to agree with Mofox1, I regularly use my refractometer during the brew day, I don't use a hydrometer at all on the day, then hydro only through the ferment. They also really aren't that expensive, especially considering I'm still using my original one I bought years ago compared to many...

I would definitely purge the keg with CO2 before filling it as you mentioned in your first post. Also make sure your fill tube goes to the bottom of the keg when filling. Oxygen will spoil your beer surprisingly quickly.

G'day Jollos, With regards to working out when fermentation is complete it is best to get yourself a hydrometer. They aren't expensive and is the best way to work it out, it'll also let you know what your alcohol content is if you take original and final gravity readings. With regards to back...

One 6kg bottle will be fine and last you quite a few kegs. Carbing at 250kpa for 48hrs does work if you are in a rush, but you can obviously only do this if uncarbed beer is the only ones hooked up to the gas supply, otherwise it will overcarb your other beers. I generally just set the gas at...

They are up on their site.

Here is a photo of what i use on a standard keg. The coupler is a little bastardised because with the standard handle they don't work on my 20L kegs. I hope it helps.

Yeah, I found the gauge was not very accurate. Setting takes a little to get used to. Easiest way I found way to set off another keg or a PET bottle. In saying this I have accidentally set it too high, checked on it about 18 hours later and the pressure was close to 40psi. I opened it up and...

I have a kegmenter and I also use a regular keg. Both work equally well. Instead of getting the type of conversion spear other are talking about I just use a regular coupler with the 5/8th ball valves on it. I cut about 18mm off the original spear to avoid trub and yeast. I agree that the KK...

I have one of the aluminium chill plates which I used the first time on NYE. I was happy how it went. We ran close to 80L through it and the beer was nice and cold, but the kegs were still fairly cool. I haven't used anything else so nothing to compare it with.