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There's no mode to change on the SCT-1000 - the heating will kick in when the temp drops below the set level and the cooling kicks in when it gets too hot. Here are some instructions on it's use.

I haven't used the Chocolate Rye, but use the Chocolate wheat fairly often. In any beer that needs colour adjustment it is my go to.

I have! I kegged it last week and tried my first last night. The rye spiciness is just coming through, but there is also a light toasty note. It also has a decent maltiness to it which balances well with the bitterness. Has a dry finish and is a very easy drinking beer. If you can get some Black...

I would sprinkle on top at 20-23°C then start chilling immediately to 12°C. This will give the yeast plenty of time to hydrate before the temp gets too cool.

19L all the way. 50L is a lot of beer and a pain to move around. Also costs more for the fittings.

Finally received my grain order yesterday and brewed this today. Was a touch low on my numbers, but not enough to worry about. Changed the recipe up a touch with a bit more of the Black Forest rye. The wort smells amazing, so really keen to see how it turns out.

Has any one here used Gladfield's Black Forrest Rye malt? I've got a couple kg's coming to try out and was thinking about putting it in a Strong Bitter, something along these lines... 75% Ale Malt 16% Munich Malt 5% Black Forrest Rye Malt 3% Naked Oat malt 1% Chocolate Wheat Will bitter to ~40...

Got a simple Pale Ale fermenting at the moment, but I also did a 2nd sparge and collected 11L of 1.013 wort. After boil I got 8L of 1.015 that I'm fermenting in a PET keg. Didn't bother with an airlock. Had a taste yesterday and its not too bad! Bit watery as expected but should be better when...

I have one and used it once, and it's sat in the drawer unused ever since. It doesn't take much to stop the flow, so any foaming when filling will shut it down early.

You probably shouldn't have waited 2 days

The latest KL youtube video had Kee standing on it, so it'll easily handle the weight of the malt pipe.

Brewed a Best Bitter today but got better effi iency than planned (89%) and ended up a couple points high, but will still be a nice beer Mash Water: 30.66 L Sparge Water: 26 L @ 76 °C Total Water: 56.66 L Boil Volume: 52.92 L Pre-Boil Gravity: 1.035 Vitals Original Gravity: 1.045 Final Gravity...

So it's been sitting in 2 kegs for 2 months now - one as is and another with some oak sticks. I put the non-oaked keg on gas last week and trying my first glass tonight. And it's turned out well! Doesn't taste boozy, nice and thick and a nice balance between hop bitterness and roast...

No, you don't have to correct a hydrometer reading, only a refractometer. Correct for temperature though. What does your hydrometer read with only water? Same for your refrac?

Thanks Mark. I'm paying around $100 (after the included bottle in the $79 plan) for a 6kg bottle through BOC as I don't have anywhere nearby that does refills and am going through ~3 bottles a year. It might be worth my while to upgrade to the G plan for $179/year and forget about harvesting CO2.

All homebrew forums and groups I've been a part of have suggested using CO2 from the fermenter to purge kegs and/or push out a sanitiser. But I read several members on probrewer saying CO2 from fermentation is not suitable unless filtered, which costs quite a bit. Why would this be? Surely...

So a year on and I have had a kegerator for 6 months and the only beer I have bottled is a Barley Wine for long aging. The walk out to the shed proved to be no impediment.

Adding 10mL to all samples makes sense. So, my plan is to make 2 stock solutions.... Sulphate = 2.00g Gypsum + 2.27g Epsom into 1000mL = 2001ppm SO4, 466ppm Ca, 224ppm Mg Chloride = 4.5g CaCl2 into 1000mL = 2002ppm Cl, 1132ppm Ca I plan on using it to test 2 x 8L brews - a 29IBU Best Bitter...

Epsom salts are probably a better alternative. A 10,000ppm sulphate solution it would also be 2,530ppm Mg, and that in a 1mL/100mL stock/beer solution would only be 25.3ppm Mg. What's the upper limit for Mg before it gives me the *****?

Could I use K2SO4 instead of Gypsum for the sulphates given Gypsum's low solubility? Not sure what effect K will have though. Just trying to avoid diluting the beer too much. Even a 1000ppm solution would need 10mL of the stock to 90mL of beer to result in 100ppm sulphate.