Search results

I'll just throw in a note to second Tony's comments about the whirlpool. There is no way you'll get a decent enough flow rate to generate any sort of whirlpool in your kettle with a March, it's borderline in 40L- well actually not borderline, it's underpowered in 40L but it can at least get some...

The contamination comments were in regard to the threads on the ports being hard to clean and holding nasties, not a worry about cross contamination with the water. My choice would still be threaded over barbed. The intial Chillout had threaded fittings if I recall and I was a little sad to see...

Or you can scale everything down in size to suit what your stove can handle. Sure you wont make 25L of all grain with a 20L pot but you might pull off 15L batches. The other option as mentioned above is to do a minimash and then make up the additional water and extract post boil. Lots of info...

After the last few posts I'm not going to comment regarding system design, I follow Thristy Boys sentiments above. Regard the rubbermaid cooler as fermenter, I personally think you'll be better off with your current fermenter. I dont think you understand whats going on in a ferment and what...

That's what caught my eye. More malt backbone needed I'd think via some more crystal/caramel/toffee flavoured malts. Anyway, out of my league with this stuff as I dont brew huge beers like this so I'll stay out from now on.

Valid. :icon_cheers: I haven't insulated my lines, they are silicon and short so I figured the same. Some people do go copper though which should be worse, if it's worth considering is up to the individual. I have seen a few with crazy long lines too though. It can get a little bit nippley in...

Onward Christian Soldier!!! :party: Nothing wrong with a double IPA, had some good ones myself: Pliny the Elder, Ruination, Maharaja, I2PA. And they can be incredibly interesting if not abussive on the pallet LOL, but seriously a well constructed one can be a treat. I tend not to drink more...

Trying hard not to hijack. But just quickly: 40L pot, spans two burners. I can boil 30L, much more and the burners struggles. Bag was the recommended shape, tear drop with grain-trying to work out a way to sparge was the messiest part. Chin up bar in door way to hang bag off. Mash pH was fine...

I ran them last night too. I got OG 1079 (23L batch, 74% efficiency). IBU's, I stopped counting past 120+IBU's. IMHO that's probably not a beer you want to drink. Sorry. If this is a first batch I'd go for something that you are going to enjoy and be able to savour the results of. A nice tried...

Regarding HE water temp. My HE temp adjusts to whatever the temp needs to be to have the wort exiting the coil at my exact desired temperature. I actually measure and control my temp from just above my sparge arm as it enters back into the mash tun which isn't very far from the HE coil exit...

Hey mate. How's life down the channel? Miss getting down there to grab some scallops, rock climb at Conningham and fish a Margate and a few other spots. Nice area. The standard advice I'm sure you will get is to just go for copper. It's cheaper, easier to coil and has better thermal (heat...

Hi mate, I dont disagree with any of your points and in fact most of my comments were not even really directed your way. I acknowledge your efforts to do it properly and you are being very thorough, it was some of the other comments of what the thread "might" be and what other people were doing...

Lots of discussion here and lots of arguments. I have no concerns with using a fire extinguisher, it is safe if used properly like any pressurized cylinder. It may leak eventually but it is a safe CO2 bottle as it was designed, the possibility of leakage is the trade off with an extinguisher...

The march is quite fine for moving liquids around the brewery. As a post fermentation pump there are probably better options. Mainly thinking of sanitation and ease or priming. If you want to use a pump to move fermented beer I'd consider sourcing a peristaltic pump. They use a piece of tubing...

Aluminium will pit over time, you might also get some reaction to dissimilar metals in contact with it (brass ball valves/fittings etc). But 10 years isn't a bad innings for a brew kettle at the price you pay for an aluminium pot. This is where the stainless starts to come into it's own, no one...

Go with what you can afford and what you can work with. 50L is good, 70L wont hurt either. Aluminium is a good affordable option plus it's easy to work with if you want to drill a hole and install a tap (hand drill and a round file for a weldless option). Stainless is a lot harder to work with...

Few possibilities. Heat loss through long hoses is one possibility. You want these as short as possible or well insulated. No point in pulling hot wort out of a hot mash tun, cooling it down in hoses, heating it up in the heat exchanger, cooling it down again and then back into the mash tun...

Have a look over my stuff here: http://hbd.org/discus/messages/366/33903.html My plumbing works beautifully, the only connection I have to make is the switch from recirculation to connection to the kettle. If you follow something similar to my plans you can prime all your lines while expelling...

I wont deny it's fun and I loved designing it and watching it all work out perfectly as planned. It truely does work quite well indeed. It was also very satisfying and also makes the brew day a lot more fun with flashing lights, whirring pumps, moving liquids. That side of it can not be...

In the end I think any noticable improvement in a beer that is brewed by a brewer on a herms system is probably largely to do with the increasing experience level of the brewer, the level of their interest and dedication into brewing the beer and how much they have educated themselves on the...