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As others have stated you'll be spoiled for choice and can't really go wrong. In Bruges I can recommend 't Brugs Beertje: a slightly weird little joint that carried an absurdly large selection for the size of the bar. I had a Belgian IPA there that I wish I could remember the name of - big hit...

Thanks Yob, I guess I'll have to include a switch to shut off the LBP when the HLT is nearly empty.

Does it hurt them? I don't make a habit of doing this, but when it has happened, the LBP hasn't screeched like a dry March pump. I want to install float switches in my MT and kettle so that I can fly sparge without having to watch the rig constantly. The switch in the MT will turn on an LBP to...

https://www.craftbrewer.com.au/shop/details.asp?PID=979 + https://www.craftbrewer.com.au/shop/details.asp?PID=980 Not an economical way to buy CO2 but that's a long term consideration. Probably the cheapest solution way to dispense 1 keg's worth of beer. Gas flow is not regulated so it will...

Hello Ben from Sydney. Wow, what a comedy of errors! But as contrarian says, at least you've made beer (well, wort at thus stage but with any luck it'll be beer soon). Aside from the brewday thrills and spills, the only points I'd be worried about are: Contamination from the plastic that melted...

Copper in fermenting/fermented beer is bad, though, right?

Purge the filter system, lines, etc, and obviously the receiving keg with CO2. My filter housing for some reason never fills entirely with liquid, so I'm much happier knowing that the gas bubbling around in there is carbon dioxide, not oxygen. A pro brewer once explained his purging process to...

Interesting... presumably any grassiness that is normally expected from extended dry hopping also subsides over such a long period of time? Or the grassiness compliments a cider in a way that it doesn't in beer?

Not sure you'd want to go opening every bottle. Might be a bit of an infection/oxidation risk and measuring a the correct dose of fresh yeast for each one would be a big PITA. You might be better off just leaving them. If they weren't all completely frozen, chances are that enough yeast would...

I thought it occurred everywhere? Ideally we want to get everything within the grain into solution: starches, enzymes, etc, leaving the husk as a lautering filter. Each enzyme has an optimum temperature and a higher temperature at which it becomes denatured and therefore no longer able to...

To attempt to answer your question as directly as possible with the information provided so far: yes, sorry, you did at least one thing wrong. While the Wyeast instructions say something along the lines of a pack being sufficient to inoculate 20 litres of 1.050 wort, that is based on ideal...

Don't forget to boil the liquid you extract from the grains or you'll more than likely infect your wort with whatever wild yeast and bacteria was living in the grain. There are plenty of tutorials around on steeping grain.

That poor bloke was getting pranked on his first day, surely? Gravity readings would be several orders of magnitude more accurate for determining the brew's progress.

Cheers dent. I might just go for the cheap chrome plated version for the time being, especially if there's any chance I'll have to do something severe to it to get the NRV out. How did you arrive at that figure of 40 PSI? Is it possible, within reason, to get too much air dissolved in the wort...

Thanks dent. Yeah, don't really want to get coupler or valve assembly full of krausen. Was hoping it'd go ok with 10 L head space as that'll allow me to fill 2 cornies from a single batch. I have the O2 bottle already but your suggestion of just using air and really cranking up the pressure is...

No, no intent to force carb by adding CO2. I think you misread my post - I'm tallking about adding oxygen, hence my question about trying to work out what level of pressure will get the right amount of oxygen into the wort. I would obviously set the spunding valve higher than whatever level I...

I've got a 50 L type A keg that I want to use for pressurised fermentation. I plan to get a Micro Matic coupler, and would like to have to modify both the keg and coupler as little as possible. I think the keg should be fine as is, other than grinding off the lug on the spear as described in...

The STC-1000 is nearly ubiquitous in HB temperature control. It can do heating and cooling and is a dead-easy "set-and-forget" method. It will need to be wired up and mounted in a suitable enclosure or jiffy box. There are countless threads and tutorials on AHB and elsewhere, and 10 times as...

Fermentation was nearly complete so chances are, as you've noted, that it hasn't affected the flavour profile. Get a temperature controller such as an STC-1000 so that the belt only kicks in when required,

Agree with Yob: what you're looking at is cold break. I have this problem every time I whirlpool and chill in the kettle - it just doesn't settle. The layer of trub you're seeing that has settled will be hot break and hop gunk. Consensus seems to be that cold break in the fermenter won't do any...