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This will work, but repeatedly chilling the yeast to get it to drop out of suspension, then letting it warm up again, is not very good for it, assuming you'll chill and decant again after the 2nd 2 litre stage. Mainly I think you'll affect the viability, probably not to a great extent, but it's...

Yep, so what if the target is, say, 66 or lower? Actual temperature would be 60 tops. What would happen? If the mash was long enough maybe the beta-amylase just produces an ultra-fermentable wort, but due to enzymes working slower at lower temps, a standard 1 hour mash might just give incomplete...

Assume that by this you mean that they were over-attenuating? Or you were mashing 6 or 7 degrees under target and didn't extract many fermentables at all, depending on what the target temperature was? Was this reflected in gravity readings? Did you compensate with your mash temperatures at all?

BIAB is "Brew In A Bag". It's an AG method that is an alternative to the traditional 3 vessel system that many AG homebrewers use. Google it and you'll find heaps of info. NickJD's thread is best place to start if you're interested in it. I would get a 30 L fermenter even for small batches...

The other easy way to remember is it's the 2nd Friday of the month. None of this Friday morning hangover nonsense you BABBs guys put yourselves through. :beer:

"Don't start homebrewing. It'll consume your all your spare money and time, nearly ruin your relationship on multiple occasions and take over your entire house. However much money you think you'll save by brewing your own beer, you'll spend 5 times that on fridges and stainless steel." :P...

I pitched on Sunday night (48 hours ago). 24 hours in it had a nice krausen, but as you say Nick, foamy, not dense and creamy. Has dropped back a bit today. I brewed a double batch (no-chilled) and was hoping to inoculate the second cube with yeast top cropped from the first. I'll wait and...

I had this problem with a MicroMatic reg I got from Craftbrewer. No NRV built in, but it was never used without one installed on the output. I'd only had it for a few months so the guys at CB gave it a quick test and just swapped it for a new one. If you can't get yours replaced under warranty...

Thanks Yob, but I've already read plenty of the generic info on top cropping. If I'm working with a known top-cropper like WY1469, I'll literally scoop the krausen directly from one fermenter to the other. I was hoping to get some specific advice about the Coopers yeast, to avoid risking that...

Is it possible to get a decent crop of viable cells from the krausen of re-cultured Cooper's yeast? Has anyone done this with success? I've done some searching on this topic and found very little info. There seems to be some speculation about this yeast - that it may be a blend of 2 strains...

I wasn't disputing your point, AF, just offering some advice about a potential pitfall. I don't know of anyone else who's managed to achieve what I did with that urn. Still, I thought I'd offer up some evidence of what can happen when atmospheric pressure goes up against a lot of contracting...

I've never done this, but I think it has been a pretty popular practice among homebrewers at various points in history. The addition of the HDPE cube is a fairly recent recent innovation, no/slow chill in general is a pretty old school method. I think NickJD does this with some of his stove top...

You can buy their beer commercially in at least one location: 1 Two 3 in Broadbeach have the Pilsner, Gluten Free (style undisclosed), and a ginger beer. I had no idea they did a brew-your-own type thing too. Not much info on their site but it looks like a pretty typical extract-only type set up...

I'd agree with gravey and say it doesn't matter. There are 2 sets of relay contacts (5/6 and 7/8). They function exactly the way a single-pole single-throw switch on the live wire would: breaking the circuit when open and completing it when closed. Within the pair it doesn't make any difference...

So much virgin stainless just waiting to be broken in! You must be stoked with that set up, Brocksmith! When's the big day?

Run it for the whole mash. The idea is to maintain temperature during each rest. The wort flowing through the heat exchanger achieves this, with the element switching on as required to nudge the temperature back up when it starts to fall. If you were to switch the pump off and leave the...

Stating the output voltage makes sense: the SSR needs a DC signal. Whatever SSR you buy will have an input signal voltage range on the label. It's usually very broad, like 3 V to 35 V. The Auber and Sestos PID's SSR outputs are 12 V. The cheap PID's ebay listing says "Voltage out put: DC 0-5 V"...

Until Slug reports the results of the investigation, it's all of the above and more. Schrdinger's dip tube obstruction. Although a re-reading of this thread suggests it's most likely a stuck poppet valve. Yawn.

Yeah, I guess a bit of hop matter would be the obvious culprit. I like to expect the unexpected, though. Maybe it could even be.... a kitten?

While the Sestos kit from eBay is a good deal and convenient as it includes the SSR, I wish I'd gone for a PID with ramp/soak. Although like Cocko, I'd probably just stand there are grin at it instead of doing anything productive with the time freed up by an unattended step mash. :D...