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The temperature a liquid boils is also directly proportional to the pressure exerted on it at any time. It will boil at room temp at about 29.7 in/hg. Just some more useless information.

I threw a 50mm stir bar at very high speed. luckily i caught it and had a second flask on hand.

THe boil will be the same temp whether it's vigorous or slow.

I just threw myself onto the team too. Been using it a while now.

I've always used it at 20mins, maybe I'll try it at 10.

I did an oatmeal stout with 4kgs of powells ale and 2 of pils. Ran through the mill 3 times and nudged 78%. all the specialty grains were JW, The third run really made the difference, I basically pulverised the buggery out of it. Still not sure if the extra effort at the mill is worth the $12...

boil it after you removed the grains.

Mine is still going after 5 brews! It looks as though it was built on a humid day in asia, it fogs up when it gets cold.

there will still be enough. just don't rack this yeast too early. I've had huge diacetyl probs with this.

Linz Little squares(Mrs Linz) Gerard_M Janelle JH ?????? Stuster Boozy The Clown Mikem108 Leon RichLum + friends Benny Brewster + friends Crozdog Ross (maybe) Doc Seth PoMo Trev Homekegger1 Duff HomeBrewWorld.com MCWB crusher the Deb barls???? Timmy Spouse has it pencillled in our little...

how cold are the bottles that go in? Are they all the same temp?

Amsterdam mariner is a good sub for Amstel Lager. It's much better than the locally brewed beck's and P.Urquell but the imported versions of the two are much better. If I'm going to buy a cheap slab, I can pay $35-$40on an australian lager or $29 on a beer that actually has a bit of malt...

another good reason to rack. You can rouse up the yeast to drop down an extra few points. If when you bottle you rouse it a bit more, then add sugar then you are basically over priming.

If only they had it 15mths ago when I was in Young. Can't complain about that price.

GEEZ! You hop early!

Think i might have to give this a go.

If the technical whack doesn't work there may be a prob. IF there are traces of oil on any refrigerant lines its a good sign of a leak. Has it been gradually getting worse. Likely problem- Gas leak. Less likely blocked line/drier. Another possibilty if its a frost free model the fan may have...

try giving it a whack with both hands, both sides simultaneously.

Alternatively just use the reg to adjust the flame if the valve gets hot.

use a rotary deburrer, if it wont reach then don't worry about it.