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I use Starsan which I mix with distilled water and store in a sealed bucket. As long as the pH is below 3.0 then it's fine and can be re-used many times. I've tried a few methods to clean my BM and the best one is to rinse it after use and wash out as best I can and then fill with hot water to...

I've got the Hoprocket after the pump and before the chiller so I suppose the small volume of Starsan in the pipe from the brewing vessel to the pump and the in the pump itself won't hurt too much.

Yes, that's a good idea - not considered that one. Thanks What I didn't mention is that on some brews I will have a Hoprocket in the circuit too. I wonder if running Starsan through hops has any bad effect? I could of course connect the Hoprocket after the wort begins to appear but that may get...

I've built myself a Chillwizard clone using a March May pump, a Therminator and an temp probe and oxygenator. I've not tried it on a brew yet as still practicing the process using water. I'm happy with the backflush to clean it and running PBW through it but what I can't work out is how to clear...

Why are you adding a false bottom to the Braumeister?

In the old days I used to use 1 teaspoon of sugar/pint which is about 4g/pint so multiplying that up would be 160g/40 pints so about 80g for a keg. Sound about right?

I'm doing all grain brews and conditioning in a 5 gal King Keg. I prime using dissolved DME but I can't work out how much to use. I've been using about 50g but not sure whether this is OK. Sometimes I get quite a pressure build up in the keg. I also use Mini Kegs which hold 5 litres each but I...

Thanks. I'll give that a try. Do you think the protein step of 5 mins is about the right length of time?

I don't add Carapils or Crystal Malt as it darkens the beer a bit and I prefer them really blonde. I agree with you about the acid malt. My brews have both acid malt and lactic acid but I'm beginning to think that there's not much point in using acid malt if I'm adding lactic acid anyway. The...

I now have three mash programs; light, medium and full body. Light Body Mash In Add 25.00 l of water and heat to 38.0 C over 0 min 38.0 C 0 min Protein Heat to 52.0 C over 14 min 52.0 C 5 min Maltose Heat to 64.0 C over 12 min 64.0 C 90 min Saccharification Heat to 73.0 C over 9 min 73.0 C 30...

Completed the brew with the adjusted mash step from 45 mins at 69 degC to 60 mins at 69degC and the OG is as predicted so that appears to have done the trick. The proof will be in the drinking to find out if it has full body or not. A few weeks to wait for that unfortunately.

I have a brew day planned for tomorrow so will test out the theory and do a maltose step at 69 degs for 60 mins instead of 45 mins. I'm reluctant to throw more grain at it because Beersmith's predictions have been good so far and I'm really impressed with the software so there must be something...

So if I increase the Maltose step from 45 mins to 60 mins then hopefully that will squeeze a bit more out of the malt. My only concern is that it will reduce the body but I hope the temp of 69 degs may maintain that.

I've been using Beersmith2 with great success brewing light and medium body ales with a Braumeister 20l. The recipes seems to be pretty accurate with regards to the OG when I brew light and medium body but as soon as I try a full body mash I always miss the OG by a fair amount. For a light body...

I think you've hit the nail on the head! I am using a refractometer and of course it won't give the correct reading without adjustment. No idea why I'd forgotten the basics but looking on the positive side I have got some interesting comments and ideas on mash steps so thanks to all for that. I...

sorry, not sure what you mean, "add all the 5's"

what's a fast ferment test?

I'm beginning to go off it fast too. I'm going to chuck another dose of it in and see if that fires it into action

Which yeast would you recommend for a light ale in a conical? Last time I did 64C for 75 mins maltose but I was trying to get a fuller body this time. What would you suggest?