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Nice! Mistake I made on my build originally was to not make the jacket removable. I found out that any wort that gets in the cladding stays there and festers. A good addition would be to change out those tensioners for latches so the jacket can be removed easily for cleaning.

Graphic designer friend created them: www.susekorte.com/ And just got the local printer here in Hay St Perth to do it. Specified 3.5" x 4" and got a good price.

Evil Alchemi Grand Master IPA

First of many hopefully. Just making this hobby even more time consuming and expensive ;-)

69C mash doesn't sound too high at all such that you would get low attentuation - unless you mashed out after 5 mins ;-) Plus you have added a heap of dextrose. I would just wait a little longer to make sure fermentation is indeed over, then bottle it. Then enjoy a beer with full body and...

Guys, I've got a Munich Helles fermenting away which I will rack for ageing probably this weekend. I'm pretty sure it'll be around it's last couple of gravity points by the weekend anyway. However I won't be brewing this weekend, and I want to pitch my next brew on to this delicately grown...

If you're going to dry hop, just do it in primary and save oxidizing your fermented beer. You will not notice a damn difference leaving the beer in primary for an additional week before kegging/bottling. I would only rack to secondary for the same reasons as Yob above, plus if I'm doing a lager...

SPARE PROBES 1. Mardoo (x2) 2. Barneey 3. marc280 (x2) 4. Brewhart 5. crazyhorse (x2) 6. Jase (x2) 7. bigmacthepunker (x2) 8. BazzaB 9. Oggie (x2) 10. tateg 11. SBOB 12. Bigbern 13. MastersBrewery 14. LiquidCurrency 15. Tassiehopper 16. zwitter 17. jonasbegood 18. CoxR 19. shaunous 20...

Gimme 2.

You could make it a bit more robust on the palate by hitting alpha-amylase temps for longer (bigger mouth feel) and using a yeast that is going add something more complex to the profile. I would do a short step (5 mins) through the beta temps just to make sure you get a reasonable attentuation...

God I love simple things like that.

Guess it depends how big a "double batch" is... and how long you're prepared to wait for your temps to get up.

How did I not know about this glorious thread!?!? So much gold in here. Thanks Spog. Here is my grain mill stand fashioned out of that useless old broken camping chair that everyone has.

Pot on the ground is the boil kettle, on a 3 ring gas burner. Also, did you spot the name change?

Part of the rig - the grain mill. "Artisanal" hand crank and recycled camping chair. In keeping with the black and jarrah framework of this:

Xander, simply add water, agitate it, and then wait 2-3 mins until the hop crap and coarse trub has separated, then decant and go through steps in Yob's first link. Not a problem. What you're seeing there is the yeast settling into the trub, but it can still be separated.

That's nuts!

Centennial Amber Ale 4.5% abv OG 1.046 47 IBU 80% pale malt 4% crystal 60L 8% wheat 5% Vienna Sacch @ 66C for 45mins Magnum bittering additions Centennial bittering additions Centennial and cascade aroma additions and dry hop WLP090 San Diego Super Yeast Fermentation at 20C Note...

FYI my cork experiment didn't work. Beer was flatter than milk.

That **** is mental!!! Here's my first year yield in comparison...